BallReviews
Equipment Boards => 900 Global => Topic started by: Impending Doom on December 17, 2012, 02:27:16 PM
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Started in the track area, and went around the ball, but hasn't come close to my grip area or finger or thumb holes. :(
RIP, little guy. I'll miss you.
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Bad 3 900 balls crack on me so far. Other than that, great balls!
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I've been told out here that it is all the balls out of the San Antonio plant.
I am very careful with my AMF, 900 global and Columbia balls.
Not so much with my Storm and Brunswick.
I love AMF and 900 Global balls also! Strong stuff!
REgards,
Luckylefty
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I've been told out here that it is all the balls out of the San Antonio plant.
I am very careful with my AMF, 900 global and Columbia balls.
I'm going to presume that you mean your pre-Ebonite International Columbia balls? Current Columbia balls are made no longer made in San Antonio...
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I've been told out here that it is all the balls out of the San Antonio plant.
I am very careful with my AMF, 900 global and Columbia balls.
I'm going to presume that you mean your pre-Ebonite International Columbia balls? Current Columbia balls are made no longer made in San Antonio...
Correct, all Columbia 300 balls are out of Hopkinsville, Kentucky...Ebonite International's HQ and manufacturing plant.
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Out of the copious amount of SA produced bowling balls I have owned in the past 9 years, I have had very few crack.
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Yes, it started when Track was in SA. I had a few balls crack of Track pre 900 Global as well as core shifts and then 5 of my 900 Global/AMF stuff. However, I have also been lucky enough with 900 Global/AMF as their customer service is excellent. I don't know any other company that has service like they do. Eric is awesome and Dale is just as good.
I still have two that I have kept where its cracked all the way around the ball. A solid creature and a Double Clutch Pearl. Anyone in the Chicagoland area want some anchors? ;D
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I have had the bounty hunter, break point, shred-it, and the bank...in the past few years..
The BH and bank were sold...
I kept the BP and shred it..they cracked
My ratio is 50%...im almost sure that i am one of the few with a high percentange...but that does leave a bad taste in my mouth.
i also had a shift and virtual energy crack that were multi drills..out of like 30
Utah poured balls.
I have never had any of the ebi brands crack...
Just being honest..cuz i do still buy many balls, and used to buy way more back then
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I gave up on 900 global after have 4 of their balls crack on me.
A link, bounty, break, and break pearl. It was sad because I absolutely loved all of them.
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I have had trouble with some of the earlier 900g stuff cracking but i havent had one crack since the bounty hunter pearl and that was on the guy drilling it. I told him to drill the whole pin out and he only drilled it partially out.....I've had numerous balls since then. Also the few that i have had crack they were all replaced except the break s75 that just cracked on me at the beginning of the season. O think they have worked out the issues with balls cracking IMO....
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My Sure Thing just cracked the other day but I will take the blame for that one since I left it near my heating duct return vent and the door going to my garage. That constant change in temp could not have been good for it.
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I was wondering if only balls with filler were suspect to crack until my Lane master terminator cracked. I guess balls just crack after time. I am trying to rotate my equipment so they all get equal use. Maybe if I keep them in play they wont get brittle or dry or whatever they do to crack.
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My link cracked too. Not very many games on it. Just sitting on the ball rack. So far I have a lost C300 Apogee, Detour, Link, Nuline Guantlet (loved this ball).
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Now I need to try to find a missing link on Ebay. I can't find a nib Link to save my life.
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That's what my ball driller advised me to do. Not sure if it makes a difference or not though.
I was wondering if only balls with filler were suspect to crack until my Lane master terminator cracked. I guess balls just crack after time. I am trying to rotate my equipment so they all get equal use. Maybe if I keep them in play they wont get brittle or dry or whatever they do to crack.
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That's what my ball driller advised me to do. Not sure if it makes a difference or not though.
I was wondering if only balls with filler were suspect to crack until my Lane master terminator cracked. I guess balls just crack after time. I am trying to rotate my equipment so they all get equal use. Maybe if I keep them in play they wont get brittle or dry or whatever they do to crack.
I seriously doubt it. I have had maybe 50+ San Antonio made balls from the original Columbia 300 family: Columbia, Track, AMF, MoRich, and several from the 900Global era made in the same plant. I have had exactly one to crack, a Track Sensor that sat in its box for 3 or 4 years.
Since 1995 I have stored them all in my basement with humidity range of 40 - 60% and temperature range of 55 - 70 degrees. They sit either on an indoor/outdoor carpet, in front of my ball rack or in their original box in the original plastic or cloth bag on a wooden shelf. Some of these balls sit for 5+ years before I think to dig them out and try them again. I do not rotate them in the box so that a different part of the surface is supporting the ball. None other than that one Track ball have cracked.
I suppose, to a certain degree, I am lucky. I do know my driller is always careful about drilling: slow, sharp bit, bevel all holes, minimal use of super glue. The pin is either at least 1/2" -3/4" from any hole or drilled out completely. Standard precautions.
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Now, what do I get to replace it... Maybe I could find another Hype reactive, and drill it weak, or maybe a Hook Pearl, and drill it weak.
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Now, what do I get to replace it... Maybe I could find another Hype reactive, and drill it weak, or maybe a Hook Pearl, and drill it weak.
The Hooks are a lot stronger than the Links.
Will you be staying with a 900Global product?
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I would suggest a Motiv Ascent.
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I would suggest a Motiv Ascent.
Better add "pearl", as in "Ascent Pearl", because the Ascent Solid sure won't replace a Link.
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900 or AMF.
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900 or AMF.
Then the Hook from anyone or a Link or Missing Link from Ebay or someone who has older balls may be your only choice.
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I was thinking maybe a Hook Pearl (I like the black one) drilled 70*5.5*30 might do the trick.
I had a Scamp (I would still love one of those!) drilled like that, and I loved it. I could play straighter on almost anything!
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I was thinking maybe a Hook Pearl (I like the black one) drilled 70*5.5*30 might do the trick.
I had a Scamp (I would still love one of those!) drilled like that, and I loved it. I could play straighter on almost anything!
I'm concerned about a 30 degrees VAL angle: that's a pretty sharp reaction, in general.
Just remember the Hooks are fairly strong reacting balls, in general. If you're speed dominant, that should add some control to their backend. If you're rev dominant, that will enhance their backend.
If you're wanting this ball for light (or lighter) oil, I'd use a larger VAL, like 40-45 degrees. Remember that's a tall thin core - it usually gives a sharper breakpoint than a rounder, squatter shape.
5.5" pin-PAP sounds reasonable.
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But remember, the Link was a very tall core, so if I keep that angle, I will be trying to mimic the reaction of THAT tall core with a strong VAL angle. My Link was pretty hard off the spot. I just liked that it floated thru the front 30 feet with NO issue.
I still have to drill my hybrid Hook. Too much to drill. :)
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At least for me both the Hooks and Missing Links are all substantially stronger than mt Link. The Missing Links are much more angular than the Link with the same drilling. I would say my 5x70x70 Hook solid is probably closest to my Link and the Link has a much stronger drilling on it 4x55x30
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Man, I didn't really think that the Hooks were going to be as strong as they are. I can't wait until I drill my Hybrid Hook. I am probably going to drill it as strong as I did my Hype Reactive (30x4x30) and see how much different they are. I love the Hype.
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And an update... my Link finally cracked around the whole thing, from finger hole to the other finger hole. My kid sure is excited to bust it open, though!
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Man, I didn't really think that the Hooks were going to be as strong as they are. I can't wait until I drill my Hybrid Hook. I am probably going to drill it as strong as I did my Hype Reactive (30x4x30) and see how much different they are. I love the Hype.
Agreed, Hooks are strong! I had the polished solid w/a 5x4 and it was too much. Took it to 4000, no polish and it was still more than I wanted. I have a pearl that is a 5x5 and it was too strong off the spot, so I went w/ 4000 & polish. That really calmed it down. I can easily play the same deep line as my Train when the Train starts to die. The pearl in my opinion is a great all around ball. Hit and carry is as good as any high end ball. I had too much over-under with my link with multiple surfaces, but the Hook Pearl is so controlled. I finally put some holes in my Hook Hybrid and will hopefully get some games on it tonight. Good luck if you do go with a Hook, remember to definitely consider the strength of the core when laying it out.
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I guess it's stronger than I thought. I can't wait to put holes in my NCode then!
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And an update... my Link finally cracked around the whole thing, from finger hole to the other finger hole. My kid sure is excited to bust it open, though!
Lol I love doing that! Any word on 900 G helping you out? I could of overlooked it, but I didn't read that anything you have done would have voided anything....but there's only a 1 year warranty though right? I'd be sad, one of the better bowlers in one of my leagues really relies on his link for the 3rd game every week! Good luck with the replacement...I always have a tough time doing so....it never works out right :(
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I guess it's stronger than I thought. I can't wait to put holes in my NCode then!
WHAT????
The NCode is a pseudoparticle ball with an asymmetric core. It handles twice the oil of any Hook??
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I guess it's stronger than I thought. I can't wait to put holes in my NCode then!
WHAT????
The NCode is a pseudoparticle ball with an asymmetric core. It handles twice the oil of any Hook??
Oh, I know. If the Hooks are that strong, I can't wait to throw the NCode! Beast!
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I have had balls from about every company crack. Seems like 3 900's, but also 3 or 4 Columbia and 2 after they moved, 2 Ebonite and one each for Brunswick and Storm. In some cases they were several years old and a couple were only a few months old. I keep my equipment in my house and try to never leave anything in a vehicle overnight so normally temperature variations aren't an issue. One common denominator seems to be its always balls that are extra aggressive for that particular ball. So always wondered if the resin mix might have been on the high side for that particular run.
If a weaker reaction is what you need you might consider the Cobra SE. I just received mine and will drill it up next week. I am setting this one up for late travel league where we roll 6 games with 5 man teams. Does get a bit dry towards the end. I'll post the results after next months league. I know the reaction was weaker than my Hook and Missing Link pearls at the demo days event here in Dallas.