Hoobowler,
To answer your questions...
Target is where you are looking, generally around the arrows. When working with beginners, I'm definately "old school". I try to teach consistency in release and ball speed. Master an A game before you attempt to work the ball. With this philosophy, the breakpoint is just a result instead of something you are trying to force. You make adjustments when the "result" of a good shot didn't match your desired result.
Just so you know...The purpose of the 2-1 move is to change your line and keep the same breakpoint. So if you throw a good shot and it doesn't get to the same breakpoint because the midlanes have dried, then a 2-1 will get you back to the original breakpoint. The purpose of the 1-1 adjustment is too keep your line and move the breakpoint. So if you throw a good shot and the ball hits the same breakpoint, but it doesn't hook due to carrydown, then a 1-1 will move the breakpoint.
You understood my process for finding a shot correctly. Your movement could be nothing or it could be a bunch. If your bowling league in the same house, this should be a quick process because you have prior knowledge of the lanes.
Ball choice is a complicated issue, especially when you have a big arsenal to choose from. A good bowler can find the pocket with any ball, so the issue is which is the best ball. Which ball gives you the most room for error? The answer depends on you and the lane conditions.
Let's first talk lane conditions as side-to-side only. There are four basic shots on a lane: flat, block, tube & reverse.
Flat means the oil is the same across the lane. On a flat condition, there is no benefit to playing a point, down & in, or swing. Accuracy is all that matters. Pick a ball that will give you consistency and play a line that is comfortable to your style. Remember that a big hook is only for show. You just need enough hook to get a good entry angle throw the pocket.
Block is the most common lane condtion. A block has more oil in the middle and less on the outside. A block can have smooth transition or it can be very wet/dry. A swing is preferred because the dry outside helps you ball back to the pocket when you miss outside. A miss inside also holds the pocket more. On a blended shot, you can be aggressive, but on a wet/dry you need a ball that won't jump on you.
A tube is like a block, but it has an out of bounds area. A swing has an advantage, but you don't want a big swing that might go out-of-bounds on an errant shot. You need a smaller swing to keep the ball in the tube.
A reverse (or reverse-block) is an inverted block pattern. Its dry in the middle and oily on the outside. There are two ways to play the reverse shot. You can play it like a flat shot and stay in either the dry or the oily. Or you can treat it like a big tube and swing the oil line on the deep inside. The swing shot is the highest scoring, but it requires a lot of hand and the confidence to play very deep.
Next lets talk lane conditions from front-to-back. I'll break it down into four basic combinations: oil-oil, oil-dry, dry-oil, dry-dry.
Oil-oil: When the heads are oily and the backends aren't hooking. You need roll. You want a ball is designed and set up to roll--Strong cover, generally particle, low RG, high flare potential, tame drilling.
Oil-dry: When the heads are oil and the backends are hooking, you have options. If the side-to-side pattern is easier, then go aggressive--resin cover with high flare and a strong drill. If the side-to-side is tougher, then back off a bit--resin or mild particle, medium RG & flare, milder drilling.
Dry-oil: This is a tough shot. You need length in the front but a smooth, controlled backend--urethane or weak particle, high RG, low flare, strong pin with roll mass bias placement.
Dry-dry: You need length but the backend can be a little more open. Weaker resin, urethane & even plastic can work here. High RG & low flare is a must.
Put it all together and it can be a complicated mess that boils down to a matter of personal preference. I missed the PBA telecast, so I can't comment on specifically on Barnes; however, sometimes the you run out of adjustments and you've got to make a big change. I recommend sticking with a ball as long as you're comfortable on the lane. However, if the next adjustment means you have to stand in front of the ball return then maybe its time to switch balls. Also once you've learned your aresnal, you'll develop a feel for what each ball will do. My mixed league teamates are frequently amazed at my strike rate after I switch equipment. To me its not a big deal, I just know what my equipment will do and I watch the lane transitions very closely.
As a beginner, I don't recommend trying to fill ever hole that I've just highlighted. Start with a benchmark ball that you can control and learn to adjust. Develop a good fundamentals and you can go a long way.
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Good luck & good bowling
