SilentTuba,
There is no easy way to do this. I came back to bowling in 1995 and learned it was a whole new world, from the urethane world I left in 1988. I started by subscribing to Bowling This Month in 1997 and a couple of years later to Bowlers' Journal. Then I discovered the usenet group called Alt.SPort.Bowling and from there I came here in 1999. Been learning ever since and it never stops.
I don't think I could even now write you enough, if I wrote for 4 or 5 days solid to bring you up to speed. I'd seriously suggest reading some of the recommended web pages, such as MI_2_AZ pointed out, the FAQ from here, subscribe to those 2 monthlies (both are very good), and read the archives of ballreviews (Set your preferences back as far as possible and read the forums specific to each manufacturer).
This is a long and gradual process. It will include not only coverstocks and surface preparation but cores and drillings. You can do one with out the other. They're all inter-related.
I was trying to mentally draw you some charts but the combinations are just mind boggling. They'll need to be kept simple at first.
There are covers that skid long to handle dry lanes.
There are medium length covers that handle medium oil.
There are covers that grab the lane earlier to handle heavier oils.
There are solid resin balls (also called reactive resin).
There are pearlized resin balls.
Solids or pearls can be polished or dull or smooth. Just because a ball sis pearlized does not mean it comes polished.
There are solid particle balls (particles embedded in a resin base to add friciton to the cover)
There are pearlized particle balls (often called Particle Pearls).
Again they can come dull (400 grit - 800 grit) or smooth (1000 grit to 4000 grit) or polished.
All can be made dull (400 grit) or very smooth (4000 grit).
They can be compounded to a light shine or can be polished to a high gloss.
Polishes can contain abrasives to smooth out the lower grit numbers or they can be non-abrasive to let the ball skid but leave the underlying grit rougher.
Then these coverstocks can be combined with low RG (early revving) cores or medium RG cores or high RG cores (add length because they're harder to rev up).
Each range of RG core can have a low RG Differential for less flare (and less hook), medium RG differential or high differential for a lot of hook.
Cores can be symmetric or asymmetric, combined with all the covers and cores above. They can be weak, medium, or strongly asymmetric.
Then there are many ways to drill each of these combinations.
You see the ball reactions from combining all these factors begin to grow.
The good part is a knowledgeable driller can provide you with a drilled ball that, for your release and delivery type, will allow to play anywhere and do just about anything within your skill level, on almost any oil pattern and lane surface.
Most manufacturers have a fairly wide range of balls that will allow you to do a lot.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see." Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ
