New to the Drilling of a ball.

[WhizDom]

I've been bowling for a good while and for the past forever i just tell the local pro shop to drill it to "go long and break hard".  I'm getting to the point that i don't trust them any longer so i've been researching different info over the net. What i need to know is how can i measure my span on the balls i have now to determine the span i would need if i bought a used ball. Plus, if someone could break down different terms like "CG kicked out", "drilled 4x4", "4" pin". I know that's very very vague, but if you could let me know the main things i need to be concerned when purchasing a ball.  Any info would greatly be appreciated.  Thanks a Bunch!!!

[dizzyfugu]

If you buy a used ball, it is best to plug it and re-drill it. Chances are low that the ball would fit your hand properly, and having a bad-fitting ball is detremential for your game. It is better to invest some bucks in a plug, resurfacing (always good when you do not know where the ball comes from and how much mileage it has) and probably in a new drill pattern to make the ball do what you want and making it a complement in your arsenal.

I guess you are generally familiar with the ball markings?
"CG kicked out" means that the center of gravity is not located in your palm (midlane/midline intersection, standard option), but located somewhere else - mostly towards your Positive Axis Point (PAP).
Some people argue that CG position does not matter, I think differently.

Drilled "AxB" is an abbreviation for pin and CG distance from your PAP. It is only valuable if you know your PAP position. Another option to desctibe Pin and CG position is to desribe their relative position to your finger and thumb holes when you look at the ball finger holes up and thumb hole down. A 4x4 drilling for a righty will probably have the pin right to the ring finger hole, and the CG kicked out from the palm towards PAP. Should make a nice hook.

A " 4" pin " is a description for a ball itself. It describes the distance between the pin and the CG. It is important for ball choice before drilling, for the reaction setup. Balls with pin to CG of less than 2" are considered "pin-in", balls with a greater distance are "pin-out".
Pin-in balls tend to be better to control, good for earlier reactions (pin below the finger holes) on oily conditions, matte or heavy particle balls with a lower RG. Pin-outs are better suited for a later, sharper reaction (pin above the finger holes). But they can be harder to control. If you want a skid/snap ball and a matching drilling, look out for one of these. Better suited for medium to dry conditions and polished balls with a medium to high RG.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany
Team "X": http://homepage.mac.com/timlinked/
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe

[CoachJim]

There is way too much info to write all of it at this time, I will give a brief synopsys and you can ask individual questions.

1. You refer to the word "Span" the span is the distance between the front of the thumb (side of the thumbhole facing the fingers) and the bottom of the fingers (side of the fingerholes facing the thumb).

2. PAP= positive axis point. The point which the ball revolves around when you first let it go. This point migrates as the ball travels down the lane causing the "flare" rings you see on the ball when it comes back. When we measure the positive axis point we measure from the first ring of flare closest to the finger and thumb. This first ring of flare is traced with a wax pensil and placed horizontaly in a cup so it is level with the floor. The positive axis point is now facing straight up. This point is now marked and then measured over to the "midline" or center of your grip horizontally and vertically. This leaves you with a measurement like mine 5 3/4 over and 1/2 up. Everyones is different, and this effects how a ball reacts from one person to another.

3. Flare. The amount of flare in a drilling pattern is determined by the distance the pin is from the PAP. If the pin is drilled on the axis point the ball will roll evenly around the weight block horizontally. This puts the ball in a very stable position and doesn't flare much if at all. This causes the ball to roll it's earliest.

If the pin is placed 6 3/4" fromt the PAP the ball will roll with the weight block at it's tallest point, end over end and also be in a very stable position leaving little or no flare. This causes the ball to skid it's maximum.

If the pin is drilled 3 3/8 from the PAP the ball will flare the most that it can, keep in mind that some balls flare more or less than others and are specificly designed to do so. This drill pattern is also called "leverage". This ensures that a clean part of the ball is always in contact with the lane and makes the ball transition from the oil to the dry the quickest.

4. CG placement. If you point the cg at the PAP the ball will tend to roll hard on the back end. A sample drill pattern would be a 4x2= pin at 4" from pap and cg at 2" from pap. This drilling will also require a weight hole.

If you put the cg in line with your track ie 4x4= pin 4" from pap and cg 4", the ball will tend to snap hard at the break point.

If you put the cg in the palm ie 4x5= pin 4" from pap and cg 5" from pap, then the ball will arc on the back end.

If I wanted the ball to play deep inside I would drill it 5x3,3/8 that way it would skid through the heads and snap hard and roll on the back end.

If I wanted the ball to play straighter up the boards I would put the cg at 1 1/2" from the pap and the cg at least 3 3/8".

If I wanted the ball to play on a deep walled house shot I would drill it "leverage" 3 3/8 x 3 3/8.

[WhizDom]

Thanks so much ya'll!!!  That info helped me out a whole bunch.

[dizzyfugu]

You are welcome. Also watch out for the inoffical FAQs of BR. It is somewhere in the "miscalleneous" section, but pops up at the top every now and then. It is a very good source for basic questions and answers.

Additionally, Ebonite has some good info on ball setup and reaction on their website. It is a bit hidden, but also very informative. I think some parts are also contained in the FAQ post.
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany
Team "X": http://homepage.mac.com/timlinked/
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe

[DukeHarding]

quote:I've been bowling for a good while and for the past forever i just tell the local pro shop to drill it to "go long and break hard".  I'm getting to the point that i don't trust them any longer so i've been researching different info over the net. What i need to know is how can i measure my span on the balls i have now to determine the span i would need if i bought a used ball. Plus, if someone could break down different terms like "CG kicked out", "drilled 4x4", "4" pin". I know that's very very vague, but if you could let me know the main things i need to be concerned when purchasing a ball.  Any info would greatly be appreciated.  Thanks a Bunch!!!

More than you'll ever read or need about drilling, ball layout, etc.

http://www.bowlingcoach.com/

Hope this helps....
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Duke Harding

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Bowling Stuff on eBay

Best Ball Review Yet:
"This ball has a phenomenal hook and it turns the corner like an 18 wheeler
with a drunk behind the wheel and it hits just as hard as any ball."

[Re-Evolution]

There are answers to most of your questions in the Unofficial FAQ link in my signature.
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STORM TRACK
 

www.Bowling-Info.com

BR.com's unofficial FAQ section