I have recently got a original black Red Alert Limited edition. I think i have put about 30 odd games on it but whenever i heat it, ot does not sweat at all, not even a trace of oil. Is there anyway of heating it or something (other than Hook Again or CPR) to get the oil out

You can either heat the ball in your oven at moderate temperatures (NOT recommended) or put it in a bucket with warm (so warm that you can stand it with your bar hand yourself) water and some kitchen cleaner to bind the oil when it comes out. Repeat this process 1-3 times after the water has cooled down, depending on expected oil amount. This has worked for me very fine, and after the bath I also wipe off the ball with a special plastics cleaner and a micro fibre towel to get off any rest of dirt and machine grease.

I have also read other posts on this site swearing on a week in kitty litter, and somebody mentioned swiming pool filter granulate to be very good for oil extraction (Must work like Hook Again, though).

Hope this helps?
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany
Team "X": http://homepage.mac.com/timlinked/
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe

Dizzyfugu- Will just normal oil removal cleaner work, do i put it in the water?

I recognize that oil soaking tames down reaction on some balls in my arsenal, especially those with an open matte/sheen surface, although I wipe them before each frame. I have a lot of oil in some houses, too, so I am careful about this.
I make a ball cleaning "session" of my mostly used balls every 6-9 months, but not regularly, and then the matte stuff gets some wet-sanding, too.

For the bucket method, I use a Mr. Clean kitchen all-purpose cleaner, just a small splash for each ball, about a spoonful, if at all.. It is only intended to soften the water and bind the lane conditioner and any grease that comes off the ball.

Best success so far with the bucket method was on a Blade Particle which lost so much oil that its colour turned lighter. It must have been the oil, since when I used it again it immediately started to soak up again and the track area got back to the "original" dark blue colour. Additionally, any oil puddle the ball ran into left a dark mark after the thorough cleansing.

Seems to work fine so far, but nevertheless do not stress the issue and keep careful with any potential temperature shock for the ball! Polished balls do not need that much maintenance. Wiping the ball is the best prevention, and it takes off other substances as well which might hinder performance.
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany
Team "X": http://homepage.mac.com/timlinked/
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe


Edited on 7/11/2005 9:46 AM

does your ball have a shiny, polished finish ? or, does it look like it has a dull, or matte look to it ? brunswick recommends using the rejuvenator after about 100 games on a polished reactive ball. if the ball is dull they recommend getting it done after about 50-75 games. your ball really doesn't have enough wear and tear to need the rejuvenator.