Author Topic: Fanatic BTU (Read 6963 times)

TDC57 · « **on:** October 29, 2017, 09:51:42 PM »

Has anyone else seen there original Fanatic BTU experience ball death the more you use it. It was a machine for me, helping me score when other balls were too strong. But, now it rolls well for about a game and then just calms down to virtually no movement. I deep clean it after every session, but after I've done that, I can hold my hand against for a couple of minutes and it draws oil to that spot. I can't afford to have it baked every couple of weeks.

HackJandy · « **Reply #1 on:** October 29, 2017, 10:11:04 PM »

I assume you have already resurfaced it at least once as well. Here is one option that is expensive initially but you will basically never have to pay for another bake again - https://www.bowlingball.com/products/accessories/salmon-creek/12600/nuball-bowling-ball-rejuvenator-new-item.html . Probably worth having but even bakes may end up not working eventually. Many people also swear by putting the ball in the dish washer but I have never done and supposed to avoid any water or steam over 135 degrees or so (Make sure to NOT use the heat/dryer cycle of the dishwasher). Also don't use any detergent and place only one ball in a time in the bottom rack for only one wash cycle with the finger holes down and or taped up and allow ball to dry for 24 hours before use.

BallReviews-Removed0385 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2017, 06:34:23 AM »

TDC57,

Have you tried spraying it off between games?

The other thing I'd try between the oil extraction is to wake up the surface often. Because these respond slower to friction, when those (microscopic) peaks and valleys smooth out, the ball may "skate" and be too slow getting to the hook and roll phases of ball motion.

That surface texture on any reactive ball changes very fast, especially when used close to friction; it's just that typical reactive resin balls respond faster to friction so the change isn't quite as noticeable. On the other hand, that's exactly why we like the BTU idea. Urethane-like reaction without it being urethane.

Before league, hit it with an abrasive pad, even by hand, and see if the ball picks up earlier, which I suspect is the real problem. Oil absorption happens, but typically not as fast as you seem to be experiencing. I believe some surface texture will allow the ball to displace the oil more efficiently. You're a lefty, which usually means less traffic, so your typical friction takes a little longer to develop than the right side, which can get toasty with several bowlers... Let me know if this helps, and best of luck to you.

catman70us · « **Reply #3 on:** October 30, 2017, 09:28:53 AM »

I have mine at 500 pad, never had a problem with not picking up or being lazy.

amyers2002 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 30, 2017, 09:54:11 AM »

I think Clay nailed it. I doubt oil extraction is the issue much more likely that it's a surface issue.

HackJandy · « **Reply #5 on:** October 30, 2017, 10:58:13 AM »

Sounds right which is why kind of just assumed some resurfaces had been done as well but yeah anything approaching urethane needs lots of surface including even the Burgundy Hammer remake. Not to be flippant but why would a lefty even need a BTU unless they are a rev monster? Then again he said he has had success with it which is why I kind of assumed he had decent surface management on it. That said its a very weak piece so if it loses much reaction and its not seeing a lot of friction on the left side of the lane I could see why it might be a problem.

TDC57 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 30, 2017, 08:07:01 PM »

I have hit the surface with a 500 grit pad every other week. The difference between the ball now and when I got it, is the ball now slides a lot farther now than it did a few weeks ago. I always found it picked up a little earlier for me but had a very mild finish on the backend. I could miss a little inside and just when you think it would break, it stays there and hits high flush or on a spare if you missed inside it most often stayed on line and still got the spare.

As far as why a lefty would use this ball, it's simple I throw about 13-13.5 mph. The house I bowl at is now ten years old and my slower speed combined with the friction on the aging lanes caused the ball to always makes it's move early for me, making it hard to hold the pocket. I converted from a righty to a lefty years back due to an arm injury. The only downside has been that it made me more of just a down and in player, than one who could play most of the lane. I rely on accuracy now.

HackJandy · « **Reply #7 on:** October 30, 2017, 08:50:38 PM »

Quote from: TDC57 on October 30, 2017, 08:07:01 PM

I have hit the surface with a 500 grit pad every other week. The difference between the ball now and when I got it, is the ball now slides a lot farther now than it did a few weeks ago. I always found it picked up a little earlier for me but had a very mild finish on the backend. I could miss a little inside and just when you think it would break, it stays there and hits high flush or on a spare if you missed inside it most often stayed on line and still got the spare.

As far as why a lefty would use this ball, it's simple I throw about 13-13.5 mph. The house I bowl at is now ten years old and my slower speed combined with the friction on the aging lanes caused the ball to always makes it's move early for me, making it hard to hold the pocket. I converted from a righty to a lefty years back due to an arm injury. The only downside has been that it made me more of just a down and in player, than one who could play most of the lane. I rely on accuracy now.

Yeah need to remember not everyone has a higher ball speed on synthetics which is also why I need to play down and in and rely on accuracy as well even with my dominant hand. Sorry to hear about the ball issues. Seems just like with cracking its fairly random and varies from batch to batch even with the same ball. Not sure about ball warranties for ball death but if the ball is still under warranty and you got it from a PSO you might mention it to him to see if he can do anything about it. Damn balls are so expensive as it is and such a crap shoot if they are going to work well for you really sucks when one does and then craps out.

TDC57 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 30, 2017, 08:59:43 PM »

I'll keep trying to figure something out. I don't think this is on Brunswick. I think it's just about the make up of the coverstock. You know having a urethane reaction with a cover that sucks up oil like a reactive.

amyers2002 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2017, 08:43:32 AM »

Quote from: TDC57 on October 30, 2017, 08:07:01 PM

I have hit the surface with a 500 grit pad every other week. The difference between the ball now and when I got it, is the ball now slides a lot farther now than it did a few weeks ago. I always found it picked up a little earlier for me but had a very mild finish on the backend. I could miss a little inside and just when you think it would break, it stays there and hits high flush or on a spare if you missed inside it most often stayed on line and still got the spare.

As far as why a lefty would use this ball, it's simple I throw about 13-13.5 mph. The house I bowl at is now ten years old and my slower speed combined with the friction on the aging lanes caused the ball to always makes it's move early for me, making it hard to hold the pocket. I converted from a righty to a lefty years back due to an arm injury. The only downside has been that it made me more of just a down and in player, than one who could play most of the lane. I rely on accuracy now.

I have lower ball speed myself so I feel your pain. It's possible they've changed the pattern or the change in seasons out is effecting how the pattern plays also.

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #10 on:** November 28, 2017, 12:12:04 PM »

HackJandy,

Ever hear of a fella named Svensson?

Regards,

Luckylefty

HackJandy · « **Reply #11 on:** November 28, 2017, 02:37:04 PM »

Yep and on the left side as a 2 hand monster you can get away with just urethane and pseudo urethane. Belmo however still needs to deal with serious transition on the other side so moving inside with reactives are a must regardless of rev rate. That said urethane is awesome. Just rolled some games at lunch with my Crow. Love how predictable a ball it is.

Big Jake · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2017, 07:13:58 PM »

Quote

Has anyone else seen there original Fanatic BTU experience ball death the more you use it.

I have two BTU's and love them both. I keep one dull and the other I keep polished so the ball thats dull drinks up the oil like nobody's business so thats why your ball kinda died.

When my dull BTU started leaving me a lot of 10 pins all of the time when I know that it should be taking out the corners like it had been doing I thought it died on me

So when I got home I decided to put the ball in a bucket of hot water, so I turned on the sink water which only gets to about 123* and Wow! immediately the oil came rushing out

in fact it took about 5 bucket loads of hot water until no more oil came out so when I took it to the lanes the next day it was like brand new, I'm not kidding, it was carrying everything just like before.

So now after every two nights of league I always use the hot water bucket on the dull BTU and it stll performs grat for me even though I used it almost all summer and even in my Fall leagues which started a few weeks ago

Although the ball looks like crap it still does the job for me and I can say that it was one of the best balls I ever got.

Jake

Author Topic: Fanatic BTU (Read 6963 times)

TDC57

Fanatic BTU

HackJandy

Re: Fanatic BTU

BallReviews-Removed0385

Re: Fanatic BTU

catman70us

Re: Fanatic BTU

amyers2002

Re: Fanatic BTU

HackJandy

Re: Fanatic BTU

TDC57

Re: Fanatic BTU

HackJandy

Re: Fanatic BTU

TDC57

Re: Fanatic BTU

amyers2002

Re: Fanatic BTU

LuckyLefty

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HackJandy

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Big Jake

Re: Fanatic BTU