Author Topic: Maxx Zone question (Read 5037 times)

dwp · « **on:** January 13, 2009, 01:47:00 AM »

I have finally get my maxx zone punched up and am very dissapointed in the reaction of this ball. I don't know much about drillings, but I do know that the ball came in with a 2 in. pin and 3 oz. top wt. The ball was drilled with the pin about 1 in. below and in between fingers. My rev rate is pretty high, (but never measured). So my driller told me he thinks this drilling would work for me since this ball is so strong. We had brought the surface up to 2000 plus brunswick high gloss. And what I'm seeing is that the only way this ball will make the turn is when it hits the very dry part of the lane. If I seem to tug it inside alittle into the oil, it just will not turn at all. I have a Total Inferno that is drilled to go long and snap hard. And it seems to work very well, but the Maxx just won't cut it. My question is, being that the maxx is an early rolling ball, can it be drilled for skid snap? Because that's what I wanted to begin with. But my pro shop guy said he didn't think I would be able to control it. But I think I'm going to have him plug it and redrill. And if that don't work, I guess I have a ball for sale. Sorry for making this so long.

tizzle · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2009, 09:53:22 AM »

DWP the post was not long, just informative. I just traded a Maxxx Zone with a similar if not exact drilling (pin under bridge). Not sure about your cg or weight hole, but I had a ball that would not turn over, and looked to be burning up. Try it at 4000 no polish and see if that helps. Pin under drillings are very condition specific, at least for me. I had a similar drilling on my 900 Global Bounty as well, and it would do the same thing. Try the surface change though and see what it brings, maybe 4000 will be your sweet spot!

tuckingfenpin · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2009, 10:07:17 AM »

Take the polish off imo, sounds like it's just skating in the oil, then it hits dry and probably turns like a banshee. The Maxx OOB is 600 grit wet/sand. You'd probably have to slow it down a ton to get it to hook in the oil with the surface at 2k polished. Try 2k and 4k with no polish before you re-drill it.

Cover adjustments are easy and cheap, plugging and re-drilling is a bit more expensive and really takes the value of the ball down if it's on a 2nd drill already.
--------------------
To the world you may be one person, but to one person you may be the world.

« **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2009, 10:21:08 AM »

2000 then just about any polish will make any ball go real long. Try 2000 alone, or if you want more "pop" on the back, take the surface down to about 500-800 then add rough buff or some other compound. By the way, I don't see a solid reactive with ANY surface adjustments being skid/snap. Skid/snap reactions are typically pearl reactive balls.

As a comparison, for house shots mine is at 800 plus Snake Oil, for flatter tournament shots I try between 1200 and 2000 without any polish.

--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com

Edited on 1/13/2009 11:21 AM

Edited on 1/13/2009 11:22 AM

Edited on 1/13/2009 11:25 AM

dwp · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2009, 10:55:45 AM »

Thanks for everyone's reply. Do I just take it to 2000 now from where the surface is at, or is there some kind of steps I take to get it there?

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2009, 11:03:31 AM »

dwp,

What is your PAP? The high gloss is what makes the ball skate longer in oil. Most people with high rev rates tend to have high tracks and longer axis points. I have a 5 1/2 PAP and I cannot use pin down stuff because I tend to roll over the holes. No bueno if I am trying to read the lane. I have to put my pins above the fingers to stay off the holes, and then shift towards my VAL if I want the ball to read the lane sooner and adjust the cover as needed. The important part is letting us know what your PAP is. One more thing. What do you consider "high revs" by your profile? Are you 375-400 or 525+?

There is alot that can go into determining what the problewm is. Give us a PAP and idea of rev rate and we can better point out what the issue may be.
--------------------
Steven Vance
Pro Shop Operator
Striking Results Pro Shop
Red Carpet Lanes
Duluth (NE Atlanta), Georgia

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

mmcfarland300 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2009, 11:05:05 AM »

I would normally recommend taking it down a little more then coming back up. Say 1000 then 2000. But since this is still a fairly new ball without alot of games you should be able to just hit it with 2000 to get the polish off imo.

dwp · « **Reply #7 on:** January 13, 2009, 11:20:37 AM »

quote:
dwp,

What is your PAP? The high gloss is what makes the ball skate longer in oil. Most people with high rev rates tend to have high tracks and longer axis points. I have a 5 1/2 PAP and I cannot use pin down stuff because I tend to roll over the holes. No bueno if I am trying to read the lane. I have to put my pins above the fingers to stay off the holes, and then shift towards my VAL if I want the ball to read the lane sooner and adjust the cover as needed. The important part is letting us know what your PAP is. One more thing. What do you consider "high revs" by your profile? Are you 375-400 or 525+?

There is alot that can go into determining what the problewm is. Give us a PAP and idea of rev rate and we can better point out what the issue may be.
--------------------
Steven Vance
Pro Shop Operator
Striking Results Pro Shop
Red Carpet Lanes
Duluth (NE Atlanta), Georgia

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

Sorry forgot to put that in there. My PAP is also 5 1/2, but I don't seem to be rolling over the fingers. This is just the first ball I've had with the pin down. And my rev rate was just a guestimation from the pro who drills my stuff. Which he said it is probably between 375-400. And again sorry for the lack of information.

« **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2009, 12:07:55 PM »

quote:
Thanks for everyone's reply. Do I just take it to 2000 now from where the surface is at, or is there some kind of steps I take to get it there?

**************************************************

In order to get all the polish out of the cover, I'd go down to about 1000 then work it back up. 2000 may get it done, but maybe not, so just to be sure I take it down more.

Also, pin down drillings tend to smooth out (less angular) the back end reaction, or how it reads friction. With your higher track you'll probably still have a relatively smooth ball after the surface adjustment, it should just be one that you'll like... Good luck.

--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com

baer300 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 13, 2009, 12:21:36 PM »

I have a high rev rate as well and this ball is a gem. I needed this piece for a strong motion not really a skid flip. Mine is drilled 50x6x50, this puts the pin above my middle finger. I had it at 4000 and the ball was too long. Took it to 2000 and wow. Shot 816 and 846 with it last week. So I agree with Notclay, take it to 2000 first.
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BRUNSWICK ADVISORY STAFF
VISE REGIONAL STAFF

dwp · « **Reply #10 on:** January 13, 2009, 12:50:19 PM »

Sounds like 2000 is the magic number. Thanks for everybody's input, it is greatly appreciated. I will let you all know how this worked when I bowl wednesday.

dwp · « **Reply #11 on:** January 15, 2009, 07:54:43 AM »

Well, after taking everybodys advice, I took it back down to 2000 and it was a little better. But what I'm confused about is, is that I still couldn't throw it til the lanes started breaking down, then it came to life. I had to throw my total inferno the first game and a half, then break out the maxx. Wouldn't you think it would be the total opposite? Or do I just have a dud? I'm still not happy with it. Or maybe this ball just doesn't fit my game.

What should I do?

« **Reply #12 on:** January 15, 2009, 08:51:53 AM »

Even very dull the Maxxx is cleaner through the heads than many people are expecting. Here's what you need to decide (in my opinion).

Left extremely dull (factory) the ball handles more oil, but it will respond slower to friction on the back. High rev guys shouldn't see a big issue.

Guys like me with lower rev rates may want to keep it with some sort of heavy (surface 500-800) then add polish, or try 2000 - 4000 abralon and no polish. This will give the ball better movement late on the lane, but you'll need to move slightly closer to friction for best results.

When the ball encounters friction it will go in the direction of it's rotation. Remember that NO BALL hooks in oil (no friction), but some recover faster than others. My Maxxx is best when I play slightly inside of the pearl reactives, but not so far from friction that it can't grab the lane. Played this way it smooths out the reaction front to back AND side-to-side on the lanes. You may be trying to play too deep and so the ball is nor grabbing soon enough.

Everything needs to match up properly ball speed, rev rate, ball surface and lane condition for optimal results. Don't give up on this one. It took me a few adjustments to get it where I'm quite happy, but I had to recognize that my rev rate isn't anywhere near Sean Rash's so I had to play a different part of the lane that he would with this ball (or any ball for that matter). PM me if I can help more.

--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com

dwp · « **Reply #13 on:** January 15, 2009, 09:19:28 AM »

quote:
Even very dull the Maxxx is cleaner through the heads than many people are expecting. Here's what you need to decide (in my opinion).

Left extremely dull (factory) the ball handles more oil, but it will respond slower to friction on the back. High rev guys shouldn't see a big issue.

Guys like me with lower rev rates may want to keep it with some sort of heavy (surface 500-800) then add polish, or try 2000 - 4000 abralon and no polish. This will give the ball better movement late on the lane, but you'll need to move slightly closer to friction for best results.

When the ball encounters friction it will go in the direction of it's rotation. Remember that NO BALL hooks in oil (no friction), but some recover faster than others. My Maxxx is best when I play slightly inside of the pearl reactives, but not so far from friction that it can't grab the lane. Played this way it smooths out the reaction front to back AND side-to-side on the lanes. You may be trying to play too deep and so the ball is nor grabbing soon enough.

Everything needs to match up properly ball speed, rev rate, ball surface and lane condition for optimal results. Don't give up on this one. It took me a few adjustments to get it where I'm quite happy, but I had to recognize that my rev rate isn't anywhere near Sean Rash's so I had to play a different part of the lane that he would with this ball (or any ball for that matter). PM me if I can help more.

--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com

PM sent

Gazoo · « **Reply #14 on:** January 15, 2009, 04:12:15 PM »

You have a ball with a low RG symetric core and the pin is place 1" under the fingers which provides the earliest roll possible with less overall hook. Probably not going to give you what you want no matter what you do. Pin above the ring will give you more of that "long and strong" you are looking for. IMHO.
--------------------
"I don't want to be remembered, I want to be forgotten"

Edited on 1/15/2009 5:12 PM

Edited on 1/15/2009 5:17 PM

Author Topic: Maxx Zone question (Read 5037 times)

dwp

Maxx Zone question

tizzle

Re: Maxx Zone question

tuckingfenpin

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dwp

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TWOHAND834

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mmcfarland300

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dwp

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baer300

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dwp

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dwp

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dwp

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Gazoo

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