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Author Topic: Need help with changing surface  (Read 3341 times)

Mr Bass

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Need help with changing surface
« on: August 25, 2005, 07:16:40 AM »
I would like to alter the surface to my Strike Zone. What surface would you recommend between 800 grit (or matte) and 2 minutes in the polish machine (or high gloss). Was thinking of Rough Buff but how would I apply it? Would like your suggestions please.
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"Smokey this is not 'Nam this is bowling, there are rules"
"Maybe those Ebonite balls hit too hard. They're too good" -Jason Couch after leaving a stone 8 pin
"Yeah but the Brunswick ones get all ten though" -Brad Angelo
¡Viva la nación!
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a_ak57

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2005, 03:44:28 PM »
quote:
what about the process for the brunswick high gloss polish. and i was wondering what grit was the rough buff, and what grit the high gloss polish is.
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werd

I do belive the High gloss polish is a gritless polish.  So if you sand a ball to 400 and apply the high gloss (which is what brunswick does for the factory finish) it would react different than a ball sanded to 800 and the same amount of polish applied.
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- Andy
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Mrtaz2u300

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2005, 03:57:24 PM »
When i first threw my strike zone, it tended to hook up a little too early for my liking, so i took some of the old school storm extended polish to it, then scuffed the track down a little with a green scotch brite...  Great reaction now.  Clean through the heads with an early arcing backend thats very smooth, but still very punishing to the pins.
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DON DRAPER

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2005, 10:15:25 PM »
the real key to altering the surface of your ball is basically trial and error. you'll never really know what works best until you try it. this could mean the surface is dull( wetsanded anywhere from 80 grit to 800 grit ), smooth sanded ( wetsanded from 1,000 grit to 5,000 grit ), or polished ( with any grit underneath ). brunswicks rough buff is basically rubbing and finishing compound---you'll get more length from just a sanded ball but less length than polish. brunswicks factory finish high gloss polish is gritless but works very well when used over any grit of sanding underneath. most bowlers only worry about the different balls they have in their arsenal. just as important( and maybe more so )is the surface prep of these balls.
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RSalas

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2005, 01:59:58 AM »
quote:
I would like to alter the surface to my Strike Zone. What surface would you recommend between 800 grit (or matte) and 2 minutes in the polish machine (or high gloss). Was thinking of Rough Buff but how would I apply it? Would like your suggestions please.


Let me ask a couple of really dumb questions...how do you want this ball to react, and how would the desired reaction be different than what it's doing for you right now?
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...formerly "The Curse of Dusty," and "Poöter Boöf" before that...
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Mr Bass

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2005, 02:56:56 PM »
quote:
quote:
I would like to alter the surface to my Strike Zone. What surface would you recommend between 800 grit (or matte) and 2 minutes in the polish machine (or high gloss). Was thinking of Rough Buff but how would I apply it? Would like your suggestions please.


Let me ask a couple of really dumb questions...how do you want this ball to react, and how would the desired reaction be different than what it's doing for you right now?
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...formerly "The Curse of Dusty," and "Poöter Boöf" before that...


It rolls and flips HARD at the backend, most of the time I hit the nose or it goes brooklyn (1-2). I want it to go a bit longer but not to skid/snap...
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"Smokey this is not 'Nam this is bowling, there are rules"
"Maybe those Ebonite balls hit too hard. They're too good" -Jason Couch after leaving a stone 8 pin
"Yeah but the Brunswick ones get all ten though" -Brad Angelo
¡Viva la nación!

Edited on 8/26/2005 3:28 PM
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RSalas

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2005, 07:44:56 PM »
quote:
It rolls and flips HARD at the backend, most of the time I hit the nose or it goes brooklyn (1-2). I want it to go a bit longer but not to skid/snap...


If it were me, I'd apply a single coat of the Brunswick High Gloss polish on six sides.  That would *probably* give you the extra length that you're seeking.

Just out of curiosity, how is the Strike Zone drilled?  That is, how much leeway for tweakability do you have in the event that the ball is still too flippy after polishing?
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...formerly "The Curse of Dusty," and "Poöter Boöf" before that...
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DON DRAPER

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2005, 08:41:04 PM »
if the ball flips too hard when it hits the drier part of the lane it's probably because highly polished reactive balls do this----this is sometimes referred to as over/under. too much skid in the oil( under reaction )and too much hook in the dry( over reaction ). what i like to do to help solve this is to scuff off the polish and wetsand the ball very fine. if your ball is wetsanded 400 grit and polished, scuff off the polish and wetsand it 600 grit, 800 grit, 1,000 grit, 2,000 grit, and finally finish the ball off with a 4,000 grit abralon pad. this will give the ball a very smooth sanded surface which will burn a little energy all the way down the lane and tone down that backend reaction.
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Mr Bass

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2005, 08:35:27 PM »
Thanks, Greg. I had Next Level PS hit it with a 4,000 grit abralon pad then applied some Rough Buff polish. Gonna try it out on Wednesday night...
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"Smokey this is not 'Nam this is bowling, there are rules"
"Maybe those Ebonite balls hit too hard. They're too good" -Jason Couch after leaving a stone 8 pin
"Yeah but the Brunswick ones get all ten though" -Brad Angelo
¡Viva la nación!
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dizzyfugu

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Re: Need help with changing surface
« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2005, 09:06:03 AM »
Just an additional idea, since it has been out of fashion at Brunswick, but what about a finish on your Strike Zone with Cerium Oxyde Trizact pads? A good pro shop should offer this service, especially when tehy have Brunswick balls in stock.
I am not sure how it would work on a solid Activator, but on some balls from around 2000, this finish was and still is very good and competitive. It is a sheen to glossy finish, but without a polish to it. Just a very fine abrasive.

In oil, Cerium Oxyde Trizact surface balls skid very well, and when they hit the dry they have lots of traction, because the ball surface is pretty clean for lane contact. The ball will certainly move more (or at least more arcy) than with a polish, and probably grab better than with Rough Buff, which is applied to a 220 grit surface as a kind of filler.

The Fuze Eliminator (solid Aggressive Recative [PK18 derivate] with light load of particles) had this finish for example, and it was/is a very smooth ball to play with on changing oil conditions. Maybe you get something similar with the stronger solid Activator coverstock on the SZ and UI?
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