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Author Topic: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl  (Read 7226 times)

dfusnik

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Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« on: December 10, 2008, 03:24:38 AM »
I'm looking to resurface my Twisted Fury Pearl to the oob rough buff finish.  What grit of sandpaper should I use before polishing w/Rough Buff?

Edited on 12/10/2008 12:25 PM
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charlest

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2008, 10:12:56 PM »
quote:
CharlesT


I have been looking for some information on how to match grits between sandpaper and Abralon. I seems from your response that you may have the info I need...it would be much appreciated if you do.

Thanks,
Fran


The Abralon pads are graded on what is called the FEPA scale (European abrasive manufacturers). Most sandpaper and other abrasive US manufacturers have been transitioning to this system for the past several years now, mostly because the system provides more even abrasive sizing. All abrasives (sandpaper, Abralon. Trizact and others) which are graded on the FEPA system (vs the older US system) usually have a "P" preceding the number, which is the grit level.

As far as I know:
From P800 grit to P4000 grit, just divide the number in half to get the US equivalent grit level. So P800  or 800 grit FEPA or 800 grit Abralon (I know there is no current 800 grit Abralon) = approx. 400 grit US.
P1000 grit = 1000 grit Abralon = approx. 500/550 grit US
P2000 grit = 2000 grit Abralon = approx. 1000 grit US
P4000 grit = 4000 grit Abralon = approx. 2000 grit US.
(for safety and sanity's sake, add the word, "approximately" after the 2nd "=" sign.

Below P800 things get sticky. I have to refer to a chart. Here is one:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00006_sb2.asp
here is Mirka's, the developer and manufacturer of Abralon:
http://www.mirka-usa.com/downloads/pdf_files/grit_chart.pdf

FYI as far as I Know, at this moment in time, the numbers associated with Scotch-Brite nylon pads are US grit levele.


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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 12/11/2008 11:35 PM

Edited on 12/11/2008 11:36 PM
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charlest

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2008, 10:18:48 PM »
quote:
The rough buff surface is almost impossible to replicate at home.  The amount of hand pressure and spinner speed used when applying the compound is never constant.

BrunsRico (now JustRico)ran multiple tests using abralon pads and determined a FRESH 4000 abralon pad or a worn 2000 pad will get it there.

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I do not believe it is impossible. I have used RB to achieve very close approximations. It's just a matter of care and persistence. I do agree that doing the equivalent with Abralon or Scotch Brite is much easier.

I have also learned that doing exactly what Brunswick says with respect to more length and less backend, by sanding finer (220 grit -> 320 grit  -> 400 -> 600 -> 800) and then using RB or High Gloss polish, depending on the ball, also does work, relatively precisely.

If you want some stock surface that's extremely difficult to achieve try getting anywhere near close to Lanemasters's "sheen" finish. I won't begin to tell you how long it took me to do that, until Valentino's Resurrection came along.

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FranVarin

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2008, 10:20:07 PM »
CharlesT

that is great insight into the differences. I'll check out the sites you provided and read up a little bit now that I have the resource.

Thanks Again,

Fran
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JustRico

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #19 on: December 11, 2008, 10:31:18 PM »
If you like the reaction you got out of the box, then I would suggest, if you are not secure in going from 220 or 400 to Rough Buff, then I would suggest breaking down the cover, with a 360 Abralon and then working it up through the 'grits', i.e. 1000-2000-4000. Then way you will not get it to shiny, which will make it a dart and not too dull which will make it react early, which tends to not be visible and quit-stop, be too smooth in the back end or appear non-responsive down lane.

And yes, I have experimented with duplicating many of the Brunswick cover preps. And yes, I agree, in the field they can be not the easist to duplicate.
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charlest

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2008, 10:32:16 PM »
quote:


The reason they actually did this is because someone hand doing the surface on a ball cannot match what the sanding and polishing that takes place at that factory, and the speed and heat that it is done at is completely different.  Therefore in order to shops and home spinner guys the closest way to get their "rough buff" surfaces back to the factory finish is to use 400 grit paper.  
From personal experience I have found that the Arbalon pads just don't give the same teeth underneath the Brusnwick polishes that sandpaper does.  
And Charlest i'm going to have to agree with Frankie that a typical house bowler on a 11-1 THS will not be able to tell if his ball is reading at 42 ft or 44 ft.  Abralon pads are smoother than sandpaper so i'm not exactly seeing at to how a 360 abralon pad can be equivalent to 280 sandpaper.  I could see a 180 pad matching up with 280 sandpaper.  

Going back to dfusnik's question, i would just stick with the 400 sandpaper, it can be found very cheap at home depot/lowe's, or probably most paint and hardware stores also.


I don't make up the grit equivalency charts. For the most part, the manufacturers do. Mirka, the developer and manufacturer of Abralon says 360 FEPA/Abralon grit = 280 US grit.  I wouldn't go by/with how it "feels" to your hand.

I agree, but would go even further: the average and the better house bowler can't tell whether the ball went 42 or 44 feet. HOWEVER, they can tell when it goes high and into the nose vs into the pocket. Given the large percentage difference between 280 and 400 grit, virtually 50% difference, at a low number, meaning high friction level, even a 200 - 220 bowler should be able to tell the difference in how early one ball would/could be with respect to the second, keeing in mind that old adage -
House wall patterns tend to hide the difference in ball reactions.
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Maine Man

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #21 on: December 11, 2008, 10:52:33 PM »
360 Abralon is actually about 300 U.S. grit, not 280.  I would just go by the manufacturers recommendation, which in this case is 400 + Rough Buff (right from the Brunswick website).  So, 400 grit sandpaper (US grit) and then apply the Rough Buff to the ball, and you will be pretty darn close to the factory finish of the ball, which is what you want.  You can also do what JustRico suggested, but be aware it will not be as close to a duplicate of the original surface as going 400 + Rough Buff would be, since this is what Brunswick recommends for the out of box surface of the ball.  Good luck!
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DP3

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #22 on: December 11, 2008, 10:56:36 PM »
Anyone else's brain hurt trying to process all of this?
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...The Twelve In a Row Pro Shop.  AMF Bowie Lanes -- Bowie, MD

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Burak Natal

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #23 on: December 13, 2008, 03:02:34 PM »
There are many ways to share an opinion. Insulting people with an arrogant manner should not be one of them..

I agree with charlest on this. Minimum effect between 220 and 400 underlying grit would be carrying corner pins even for an average league bowler..

And, perhaps some of us hacks can repeat shots, or, at least try to give PROPER proshop service to those who can repeat shots and make spares..

Just my 2cents,
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Natal
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MTD300

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #24 on: December 13, 2008, 03:25:17 PM »
Mo Pinel said to never finish a ball with polish if it had anything less than 1000 on it. I have never tried it but I honestly think 220 plus rough buff would roll AWFUL on any ball. Plus the ball would finish terrible on the spinner....it would have a messy finish with lots of lines in it?
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Burak Natal

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #25 on: December 13, 2008, 03:47:59 PM »
Well, Absolute Infernos and Vapor Zones did roll pretty good, if not great for the majority of the bowlers.

Rough-Buff is a compound with abrasives in it. Actually underlying grit will not stay same when you apply it. As fas as I remember, Rick told here couple of times that RB over 220 grit(US) is very close to fresh 4000 abralon pad which seems not so controversy to what Mo says..

For the sanding lines part, Rough-Buff can handle some of them. But yes it looks terrible which is inevitable, unless ofcourse you are using resurfacing machine which can evenly sand without leaving sending lines.
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Natal
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SleepOnIce

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Re: Resurfacing a Twisted Fury Pearl
« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2008, 04:54:25 PM »
In summary:

If you want the answer to your question listen to charlest.

If you want to be told it doesn't matter and that you are a hack listen to Frankie A.

Hmm.... hard choice.
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