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Author Topic: Rough Buff  (Read 8122 times)

hhsbowler

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Rough Buff
« on: July 02, 2007, 09:15:27 AM »
I understand Rough Buff is a compound brunswick uses for their equipment.  Does anyone know what grit it is?  Also does Rough Buff apply polish to the ball with that grit?  

Thanks

 

charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2007, 05:52:16 PM »
It does not have "A" grit. It is a rubbing compund; it smoothes out whatever grit it is applied to. Normally they, Brunswick, sand a ball to 220 grit and use RB to bring it to about 1000 grit with a mild compound "polish". (1000 grit compound polish is roughlyequivlanet to 2000 grit matte.)

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 7/2/2007 6:02 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2007, 05:57:11 PM »
I consider Rough Buff a polish. It's just that you take the cover of the ball to 220 grit first.  That way it gives the ball a "duller" finish.

I have a Fury that I use Rough Buff on after taking the coverstock up to 1200 and the ball is very shiny.

The polish does have some grit to it, so it's less shiny than the High Gloss polish that Brunswick also sells.


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notclay

Edited on 7/2/2007 5:58 PM

shelley

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2007, 07:02:59 PM »
Listen to charlest.  The RB balls I've seen look like a compound finish, like they've been polished and then had a very light sanding to knock the shine off.  Brunswick's standard RB finish starts with 220-grit sandpaper followed by RB.  I've heard that 600-grit RB is a very glossy finish.

SH

charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2007, 07:33:18 PM »
One additional note: Brunswick has a very strict finishing regimen. Ao all the balls finished with RB will look alike BECAUSE they all start with 220 grit and BECAUSE they apply the same amount of RB, with the same amount of pressure , for the same amount of time (Probably a machine). You, the individual, applying it at homne with your own spinner can stop the process at any point you like. It takes time to learn how much to apply, how hard to press, for how long. But you can get the variable finish that YOU want, that YOU need. RB and such polishes/compounds with abrasives in them allow you that luxury.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2007, 11:10:57 PM »
Whether you call it a polish or a compound, it's great stuff and very versatile.

charlest is correct. Varying speeds and pressure on the spinner, as well as using water or not, can make a noticeable difference.

Here's a link:
http://www.brunswickbowling.com/uploads/tp/q9/tpq9OASb3Pgq7TtXgjAetw/Factory_Finishes.pdf

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notclay

Edited on 7/2/2007 11:23 PM

dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2007, 01:52:36 AM »
As an addition, Rough Buff is VERY abrasive and coarse (we had this discussion some time ago ) - with finer grits than 220 as a base, you get a very shiny surface that lacks traction. Balls look rather polished and skid in oil, so I think Rough Buff's use is pretty limited - but with the 220 base grit you get someting that's between 2.000-4.000 Abralon, but smoother in the heads.
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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2007, 09:43:23 AM »
Quote
As an addition, Rough Buff is VERY abrasive and coarse (we had this discussion some time ago ) - with finer grits than 220 as a base, you get a very shiny surface that lacks traction. Balls look rather polished and skid in oil, so I think Rough Buff's use is pretty limited - but with the 220 base grit you get someting that's between 2.000-4.000 Abralon, but smoother in the heads.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
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With all due respect, Rough Buff's use is only limited by your own experience and imagination. Assuming you have a good spinner and water supply, this is one of the more versatile polishes on the market.  

Every ball skids in oil (some recover from oil faster, i.e. particle balls) but shiny one's turn sharper once they encounter friction.






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notclay

dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2007, 09:59:14 AM »
quote:
With all due respect, Rough Buff's use is only limited by your own experience and imagination. Assuming you have a good spinner and water supply, this is one of the more versatile polishes on the market.  

Every ball skids in oil (some recover from oil faster, i.e. particle balls) but shiny one's turn sharper once they encounter friction.


Hmm, I did not make this experience, but I haven' tried the stuff on many balls yet since I found it quite limited. I used it for example on a S&A over a 600 grit base and some water on a spinner, and this thoroughly killed the ball. I messed around a bit, and found that it just worked well with a coarse base finish (in my case a maroon 3M pad, about 320 grit I think). I tried it also on a friend's balls who was curious about it, and the best results concerning grip an performance were with the rough base grit?

The finish on a rough base grit is nevertheless nice, really something between a polish and a "pure" high grit finish, so it has a place to fill. But I am not sold on the idea that you can do a lot with it with base grit combinations. I haven't experimented with light volumes of this compound yet, maybe this work better with a finer base?
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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2007, 11:05:18 AM »
It all depends on what conditions you bowl on. The point I wanted to make is to not be afraid to try different combinations because the Rough Buff is quite versatile.
Some polishes "clog" the pores of the ball more than others, but I have found that those with some grit to them tend to leave the pores more open so the ball can read the lane.
Try different surfaces before applying the RB and use smaller amounts, etc.  Good luck.


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notclay

ccrider

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2007, 12:22:10 PM »
With all that has been said, to restore my original inferno and absolute inferno, do I still take both of them to 220 and then polish with rough buff?
Or, is there a better way to do it?

I assume that given the same drill, both balls will react different due to cover and core?

Charles

quote:
One additional note: Brunswick has a very strict finishing regimen. Ao all the balls finished with RB will look alike BECAUSE they all start with 220 grit and BECAUSE they apply the same amount of RB, with the same amount of pressure , for the same amount of time (Probably a machine). You, the individual, applying it at homne with your own spinner can stop the process at any point you like. It takes time to learn how much to apply, how hard to press, for how long. But you can get the variable finish that YOU want, that YOU need. RB and such polishes/compounds with abrasives in them allow you that luxury.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2007, 01:10:38 PM »
Here's what I would do with MY Inferno: 800-1000 grit, then Rough Buff;
and the Absolute would be 220 grit, then Rough Buff.

If you finish both of them the same, the difference would be VERY subtle.  By changing the surface under the polish you should see more contrast.

Remember that surface will dominate reaction more than core designs and layouts, etc.




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notclay

shelley

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2007, 01:19:37 PM »
quote:
With all that has been said, to restore my original inferno and absolute inferno, do I still take both of them to 220 and then polish with rough buff?
Or, is there a better way to do it?


The OI uses Brunswick's standard polished finish, 400-grit sanding plus High Gloss polish.  The AI uses their standard RB finish, 220-grit sanding plus RB.

Nothing wrong with putting an OI at 220-grit RB, but that's not the original factory surface.

SH

mrbowlingnut

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2007, 01:26:04 PM »
Burgandy, green and grey pad, abralon pad set 500,1k,2k,4k a few of each, brunswick rough buff and high gloss add spinner and you are now a coverstock guru.

I also prefer the columbia degree polishes 1200 and 2000 they give a whole different reaction to each ball just in case the above method's do not give adequate reaction's.

Yes rough buff is perfect for changing surfaces i use it to get that area between 1000 and 2000, i wish they made a 1500 abralon pads. Rough buff is better in carrydown situations over high gloss or the columbia polishes.

shelley

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #14 on: July 03, 2007, 03:52:32 PM »
quote:
Burgandy, green and grey pad, abralon pad set 500,1k,2k,4k a few of each, brunswick rough buff and high gloss add spinner and you are now a coverstock guru.


So a gritless polish, a compound finish, and a bunch of different grits of abrasive pads?  You mean that pretty much covers the spectrum?

Really, how many other finishes can you make?

SH