Post by: alzgarvin on February 22, 2006, 01:44:12 PM
Post by: Old Coach on February 23, 2006, 09:35:58 AM
Post by: thfonz98 on February 23, 2006, 09:46:44 AM
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Post by: alzgarvin on February 23, 2006, 10:01:05 AM
thanks, Al
Post by: BrunsBob on February 26, 2006, 09:46:11 AM
RoB LAW
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I'm gettin' old, I'm hurtin', but I've got Brunswick balls.......Color me competitive.
Post by: alzgarvin on February 26, 2006, 08:24:02 PM
quote:
Put the weight hole on the PAL - Positive Axis Line (which some people refer to it as the Vertical Axis Line or VAL), 3 inches directly below his positive axis point (PAP). This weight hole is called a "flare increasing, narrow point raising" weight hole. The size of the weight hole will be dependent on how much side weight is currently in the ball and how much is available to take out (up to a negative 1 ounce). Generally, the size of the weight hole should be 1 1/8" around by 2" deep before it starts to affect the flare separation. This should alleviate the reverse flaring issue.
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Tod Grams
Brunswick Bowling Ball R&D Engineer
Brunswick - The Past, Present and Future of Bowling
Thanks Tod, will verify his PAP..set up his weight hole and drill it for him...I'll let you know the results. This makes sense to me, I know it should have been fixed when drilled originally but bottom line is keeping this Brunswick owner happy. Sorry for the late reply, but just got back in town. Thanks, Al
Post by: Cranking_Inferno on February 27, 2006, 01:21:53 AM
Basically this will always happen unless he changes his release, or gets another ball with a 3.5 to 4.5 inch pin.
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Arsenal:
EPX-T1 - Heavy oil
Action- Heavy to Medium oil
Original Inferno - Medium oil
Smoking Inferno - Medium to Dry
Blue Dot - Spare ball
Post by: Cranking_Inferno on February 27, 2006, 01:53:42 PM
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Arsenal:
EPX-T1 - Heavy oil
Action - Heavy to Medium oil
Original Inferno - Medium oil
Smoking Inferno - Medium to Dry
Blue Dot - Spare ball
Post by: jls on February 27, 2006, 02:07:10 PM
if he was hitting the holes in game one, that might be a different story,
possibly drilling the fingers deeper may help there, but since you say it started in the 3 rd game, i will assume that the lanes are dryer and the scorchin inferno is not for dry in the box finish, i believe the box finish is 600 sanded. you need oil for that. so i would try the polish first.
good luck, putting the weight hole as stated above probably will also work, however it may tame the ball down too much in oil. thats why i would do it one step at a time.
Edited on 2/27/2006 2:59 PM
Edited on 2/27/2006 3:00 PM
Post by: kmanestor22 on February 27, 2006, 08:25:24 PM
quote:
LISTEN IDIOT... CALL CREATIVE MINDS PRO SHOP IN MORENO VALLEY AND TALK TO DANNY ONTREVEROS WHO HAS BEEN DRILLING FOR 25 YEARS.. HE WILL TELL YOU THE SAME THING.. IT IS A FACT. I KNOW ITS A FACT BECAUSE I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.... SO HE STARTED GETTING ME PIN OUTS AND THE CLIPPING STOPPED.... YOU DONT KNOW EVERYTHING... SO SHUT UP AND MIND YOUR OWN BUISNESS YOU LOOK LIKE A TOTAL FOOL.... A WEIGHT HOLE TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM HAS A VERY SMALL CHANCE OF CHANGING THE BOWTIE... BUT BOTH COMBONATIONS ACAN HELP.. BUT NOT AS SIGNIFGANTLY AS USING LONGER PIN OUTS TO GET YOU FLARE BOWTIE HIGHER AND FURTHER OF THE HOLES,, YOU LAMER
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Arsenal:
EPX-T1 - Heavy oil
Action - Heavy to Medium oil
Original Inferno - Medium oil
Smoking Inferno - Medium to Dry
Blue Dot - Spare ball
Sorry but Mr. Ontreveros is mistaken. I track high and I can but a pin under my middle finger and even in my track with a high flaring ball/ flare increasing weight hole combination. I have a Power Groove Dry/R drilled like this and a weight hole pitched parallel to the my axis kept me off the fingers and thumb! A hole pitched correctly can produce flare nearly covering the ball!
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Everyone get all the breaks but me. I earn every pin I get.
Post by: agroves on February 28, 2006, 03:53:58 AM
Andrew
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Post by: jls on March 01, 2006, 10:56:52 AM
why do you think the ball did not start clipping the holes untill the 3rd game.
to me it should have done it from the beginning, i feel that the coverstock
at 600 sanded is too strong for the third game, especially with his slower ball speed. by taming the ball down with a balance hole, do you think the ball might be too tame for him in the first game.
i have seen this before, and sometimes putting the polish on the ball does solve this. also ruff buff polish will still work for this bowler in the first game since it is a low gloss polish.
Post by: Bowler19 on March 01, 2006, 11:09:08 AM
What we did was put a balance hole next to the thumb over a little and brought the ball back to almost 0 side weight and it corrected the problem.
Aside from redrilling the ball or putting a hole in it try a smoother surface maybe 1000-1200 grit the reaction may be a later and it wont react as much but it may get rid of the problem
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Bowler19
A winner is one who keeps on trying
Visionary Test Staff Member
Post by: alzgarvin on March 01, 2006, 11:37:24 AM
Post by: jls on March 01, 2006, 12:50:14 PM
exactly where did tod mention using ruff buff on the ball.
i must have missed that in the noval he wrote.
Post by: alzgarvin on March 02, 2006, 08:44:56 AM
quote:
ALZ
exactly where did tod mention using ruff buff on the ball.
i must have missed that in the noval he wrote.
Tod did not suggest this, but working with the ball owner "Stan", he was having trouble as the lanes broke down, not having the confidence or maybe the ability to pick up ball speed or swing it more. So we lightly upped the surface to help his transition. Well last night he struggled score wise, but I liked what I saw in the ball. I used rough buff on 4 sides extremely light with the pressure on both the polish application and the clean towel buff. (no heat generated) This gave the ball more of a look like mine now after 21 games as far as surface. His ball only had 6 games prior to buff. Some of the ball still had the OOB milky look in grip area and where the ball saw no oil, even after I polished, so I didn't change the surface much at all. Almost like hand application but I was too lazy.
The ball was a tad cleaner early (Believe me this is a clean ball through the heads even in the OOB 600 finish), and had a better finish at the pins. Just a bit more flip on the end. He seemed to leave more ringing tens and didn't seem to be able to adjust. He then proceeded to miss 6 of 8 tens. Not really the balls fault. Finger clipping seemed cured as he was killing the ball to avoid over hook before. What I did like was that when he pulled the ball into the oil, the ball still finshed with authority,even with the slight polish. This is a great ball and we may still have to punch a weight hole and will keep you updated.....thanks all, Al