I post this in the Brunswick forum, hoping to get some expert insight. Some info about me (from the profile):
PAP: 5" right, 7/8" up
Track: High (semi roller), very close to thumb hole
Axis tilt: 18,7° (Initial track diameter 10 2/3")
Axis rotation: ~45°, can be adjusted ~20-90°;
RPM: ~250-300 RPM;
Ball Speed: 14-15mph at pin deck, rather slow
Preferred line: Between 2nd and 3rd arrow with a belly shot out to 4th-8th board. Balls tend to move a lot with my low speed, short oil can be a challenge. Can play deeper (4th arrow and more) or closer (1st arrow) to the gutter if the lane calls for it, also good control with hand positions for extra length or roll. Prefer ball reactions with length and a rather arcing back end, not too flippy.
Long, but I think it is helpful to my queastion. As you might know, I am a big fan of "antique" equipment - and by chance I came across a NIB Fuze Igniter that would IMO basically perfectly fit the current gap in my arsenal between my Revolution Renegade (pin above ring finger, stacked) and the Visionary Frankie May Gryphon (pin under ring finger, stacked).
As a pearl reactive with a non-so-low RG and a medium RG diff., paired with the hard Aggressive Reactive SS coverstock, for extra length, I always had an eye out for one of this pieces... and now the opportunity!
But there is a drawback: it is a 4-5.5" pin ball (top weight unknown, but I currently try to find it out and will add it if I hopefully receive the concrete specs). The Igniter was designed to go long and flip hard, "under" the RR Fuze which I had and liked a lot, as well as its particle cousin, Eliminator.
I intend to use this Igniter on medium, rather fresh lanes with 37-42' of oil or later shots, when the FMG starts burning up, with a slight swing. The ball should OOB be a good if not perfect basis for this purpose and my game, but I am concerned about the long pin. That's the dilemma I am in
This long pin will probably force me to put it above the fingers, something like Brusnwick's standard layout 2L (like the Renegade mentioned above, 2L is, in fact a favorite of mine and works very well) - and even strengthen the flippy breakpoint potential. I am not sure if I really WANT this out of the ball. Might look spectacular, but will lack control, esp. with the hard surface of the Igniter. Sure, surface adjustmets are an option, but I plan a glossy finish (either polished or a 3M Trizact rubbing compound surface, which adds traction at the breakpoint on those balls I tried it)
Back to the ball itself: My question is - do you think it is either sensible to drill the ball with the pin about 4.75" from the PAP (would end up between bridge and ring finger) and swing the CG out a bit (probably with a small balance hole) for the conditions in mind and to tame down the breakpoint a bit at the same time? Or would you see other drilling options with this specific ball?
I'd love to put the pin under the fingers, like trhe FMG just on a polished pearl ball for extra length - but I guess that will not be possible?
Another idea, which worked pretty well with a SR300 some time ago, is to put the pin into the ring finger hole - but there is still much pin distance which will put the CG very close to the thumb, and I am not sure if this can be compensated for with drilling tricks?
I have a very experienced ball driller at hand (Brunswick amateur staffer), but I'd like to gather some additional impressions (also about the ball in general, last reviews are from 2005) or suggestions before I take action and end up with a ball that simply cannot fulfil its desired purpose due to the specs?
Long post, but I hope I could point out the specific problem I have. Thanks a lot in advance and for reading this far.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
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