Author Topic: What exactly is rough buff? (Read 4118 times)

CharlieBrown · « **on:** February 25, 2008, 09:31:06 PM »

Hi!

Been away from the game for a couple of years due to injury etc...

The last balls I bought before the injury was the Zone Classic (polished pearl). I bought two NIBs last month, Vapor Zone and Twisted Fury.

Could anyone explain to me what rough buff is? And roughly rough buff is equal to how many 'grit'?

Sorry.... stupid question.

Thanks!
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The Angry Bowler

agroves · « **Reply #1 on:** February 26, 2008, 05:45:39 AM »

220 plus rough buff polish

I've found from personal experience it is similar to a wet gray scotchbrite...say 1500 to 2000.
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Andrew

CharlieBrown · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2008, 06:57:00 AM »

Thank you Andrew and Ric.

Just one more question....

The Fury Pearl is finished with 4000-grit abrasive, based on what you said Ric, the reactions of a box finish Fury Pearl and a Rough buff finish (sand to 220 then apply Rough Buff) Fury Pearl would be similar? And the main differences would be cosmetic?

I'm just trying to learn more before I change the surface of my Twisted Pearl. (It's drilled a tad too long for my house's THS, though I think it'd work a lot better in shorter oil pattern)

Thanks.

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The Angry Bowler

Edited on 2/26/2008 8:14 AM

« **Reply #3 on:** February 26, 2008, 07:47:18 AM »

I believe he said it's going too long. If that's the case take the ball down to about 1000 grit and work your way up to 2000 abralon with no polish. The Twisted works well at that surface. Good luck.

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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff

« **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2008, 07:58:01 AM »

I take every opportunity to learn from the Master, when he comes to town...

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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff

CharlieBrown · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2008, 08:02:19 AM »

quote:
When you say your Twisted is drilled to strong, it is too string where? Too much length or too angular in the friction?

Hi Ric,

Thanks for the quick reply.

I didn't say too strong. I said 'too long'.

Yes, it's got a bit too much length at the moment. I can see the ball's potential though cos it does make a shrape turn at the very end. I haven't tried it in short oil yet, but I think it's going to break a but too sharp for me to control it (I'm not a very good bowler).

Thanks!

(The Vapor Zone, on the other hand... is fantastic!)

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The Angry Bowler

CharlieBrown · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2008, 08:10:32 AM »

Ooops, you guys are too quick for me.... Ric you've replied already.

Many thanks for your help everyone.

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The Angry Bowler

J_Mac · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2008, 07:08:13 PM »

quote:
I thought that rough buff was the equivalent of a 2000 abralon pad Am I misguided here?

That's part of the problem with Rough Buff... what you end up with at home may not be the same thing Juan pulls off of the line in Mexico.

I'd rather stick to 2000 or 4000 than try to get the surface the same finish more than once with Rough Buff and compounds similar to it.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

charlest · « **Reply #8 on:** February 26, 2008, 07:19:16 PM »

quote:
I thought that rough buff was the equivalent of a 2000 abralon pad Am I misguided here?

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Righty
Speed: 17.0 (Quibica)
Revs: med-high to high (@400 RPM)
Axis: 5-3/4" 3/16 down

See Profile for arsenal

Not misguided, just in too much of a rush to read or remember all the details. No offense; we're all guilty of that at one time or another.

Most Brunswick balls that are finished with RB first have a 220 grit sanding applied. Then RB is applied at the factory. Ric has said in the past that this COMBINATION (220 grit plus Rough Buff) is generally, roughly, approximately equivalent to a 2000 grit matte finish.

Equivalent does not mean identical.

No compound, polish or other liquid application will automatically make a ball xxxx grit. Some polishes have a specified grit level on them; this is usually the maximum grit level attainable with maximum amount of the matter, heavy pressure on the sinner for a long time.

All such application of polishes and compounds with abrasive in them will modify the ball to the degree that these 5 factors are involved:
1. The grit, sanding level, compound degree, or polish level that the ball has, to begin with.
2. The amount of compound or polish applied and the number of times it is applied.
3. The amount of pressure applied by the human or mechanical device doing the work.
4. The amount of time the ball spends on the spinner during the application.
5. Of lesser importance is the type of device/material applying the polish: paper towel, plain cloth, terry cloth, micro-fiber cloth.

Too many variables involved to be precise to any degree.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

CharlieBrown · « **Reply #9 on:** February 27, 2008, 10:38:47 AM »

Thanks again for the info everyone.
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The Angry Bowler

Author Topic: What exactly is rough buff? (Read 4118 times)

CharlieBrown

What exactly is rough buff?

agroves

Re: What exactly is rough buff?

CharlieBrown

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CharlieBrown

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CharlieBrown

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J_Mac

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charlest

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CharlieBrown

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