Author Topic: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning) (Read 6434 times)

Not done · « **on:** March 15, 2004, 09:02:12 PM »

Ok... I just got my Raging Inferno. The first 4 games I bowled with it, It was reacting awesome! But now, after about 15 games, I have found that it absorbs every drop of oil it touches and I need a way to clean it quickly, and to drain the oil out of it. It no longer reacts like I want it to... Strongly.

So, I would like to know what meathods you use on your particle ball's to help them react well and stay reacting well. Ex. Cleaning after, befor, during, and on what lanes, synthetic and wood. I bowl on both.

HELP!!!

Edited on 3/16/2004 1:14 PM

Moe · « **Reply #1 on:** March 16, 2004, 12:22:21 PM »

I think thats natural, in all the descriptions i have read. They all state that after the ball gets broken in the roll will become more predictable and will arc more and not just shoot for the pocket.

"The Raging Infernoâ€™s hooking action will increase and its arc will become more even, creating a better match-up for oily lane conditions and further blending the over/under reactions seen on wet/dry lane conditions."

It also said that the high gloss finish will not match up well to "carrydown" its better for dry backends.

Im no expert here, these are just assumptioins.

Edited on 3/16/2004 1:18 PM

Fatboy8 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 16, 2004, 12:24:37 PM »

I used a heat lamp about 8-10" away from the ball and wipe it with a rag and alcohol every few minutes. it's draws the oil out to the surface and it wipes right off. just rotate the ball every few minutes and wipe until it quits comimg out.
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GUTTER DUN!!!
Bear with me, I'm the highest shootin' lowest shooter, spare missin', lane strugglin' beginner I've ever met!!

Not done · « **Reply #3 on:** March 16, 2004, 12:28:45 PM »

Today when I was bowling, for my first 5 games, the ball was coming back completely dry but the lanes were freshly oiled..... I didn't get a chance to wipe the oil off. Am I doing something wrong here?

Moe · « **Reply #4 on:** March 16, 2004, 12:35:29 PM »

Alot of the stuff i have read here, and at other sites say you should wipe the oil out of your track area. I do it every 2 or 3 balls if im one timming it.

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #5 on:** March 16, 2004, 01:57:07 PM »

Hot water soak method is best followed up with an application of the Elixir. This will keep the oil out of the ball and prolong the life of your high end equipment.

You can check it out on my website by clicking on the link below my signature and you can also purchase it there.

If you have questions message me.
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

Jeffrevs · « **Reply #6 on:** March 17, 2004, 09:24:34 AM »

OK, I'm sorry, this is getting ridiculous........(caveat: this has nothing to do with Brunswick , but a general statement, and is NOT a slam to anyone else who have posted!

) All this heat-lamp, hair dryer, oven , dishwasher stuff,...it's NOT necessary.......

Get a good bowling ball every day rejuvenator/cleaner, my recommendation is NeoTac Liquid Nitro...clean your equipment after EVERY SET, if not AT the lanes, when you get home.

Every 30-50 games or so, do a deep clean with a more concentrated cleaner, such as NeoTac's Hook-It, or ReNew-it, they also have a new cleaner that doesn't leave a tacky feel to the ball. Can't remember the name, but if you look on the Coverstock Preparation board, and do a search, using NeoTac, you'll find it. I think Steven posted it. if I find it , I'll add it to this post....

ON EDIT: here it is http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=48746&ForumID=17&CategoryID=5

After that, a resurface at around 100 games may help also.

Doc's Elixir is great as well! Repells oil!

I still have in use (my brother uses it now) a Storm Super Power with hundreds of games on it and it still ROCKS ! The above system was used..........

Good luck.......
--------------------
JEFF
Better....much better!

Edited on 3/17/2004 10:23 AM

Not done · « **Reply #7 on:** March 17, 2004, 10:30:35 AM »

my thought exactly....

Jeffrevs · « **Reply #8 on:** March 17, 2004, 12:51:55 PM »

quote:
That is good maintainance jef, but it doesnt extract the oil once it's absorbed into the coverstock. After about 100 games or so the oil and plastizor should be extracted.

Yes Greg, I agree.....and at that point it would be taken to a pro-shop to be done by someone who "knows" how to do it properly in a re-juvenator machine (sp?)
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JEFF
Better....much better!

Strider · « **Reply #9 on:** March 17, 2004, 01:46:54 PM »

Since this is the Brunswick forum, why not use what Brunswick recommends?

BTM had a lengthy 2 part special about ball death. Each manufacturer had a different opinion, but Brunswick recommends heat. I don't have the articles in front of me, so I don't remember if they recommended dry heat (rejuvenator) or moist heat (bucket of hot water with Dawn).

Several people have been giving a certain trustworthy member a hard time about "blindly" following Brunswick Techniques. I meant to add this on the other post, but this is a good place as well. Brunswick is known for having long living coverstocks, so why is it so hard to believe them when they say to use heat to deoil the cover? A few people have destroyed ball by taking the temp too high, cooling too fast...., but only a few very recently have claimed to have a ball destroyed and using the recommended procedures.

BTW, I have used the hot water/Dawn technique on several balls. I've seen some stuff come out, but not noticed a huge performance difference. Others seem to notice a huge improvement. I just tried the Hook Again system. I've been throwing the ball so poorly lately, so I can't tell if it made a big difference or not.
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Penn State Proud

Strider · « **Reply #10 on:** March 17, 2004, 04:26:11 PM »

While I'm not a big fan of the oven because the temperature setting are probably way off at the end of the range, other methods of heat are known to be safe and pretty effective. The rejuvenator allows the ball to sit in a cup and evenly distribute heat. A tub of water hot enough to immerse your hand isn't going to hurt anything. I'm leery about the dishwasher as well, even without the drying cycle.

I'm curious as to the exact method you used because from what I've read and seen, you are the exception. The Danger Zone should have been hard to kill, but the HPH was not known to be one of Brunswick's best releases. Many people weren't happy about it's long term performance. Egg shaped is one thing, but if the ball wasn't hooking or hitting enough for you to try heat, what did you really lose? Did they go from a 10 out of the box to a 6 before heat to a 3 after heat, for example?

How do you know that the "snot nosed" Ebonite graduates aren't putting poisons or ball harming (long term) chemicals in Hook It? Isn't it too early to tell? My proshop went to seminar where a tech got a little dust up his nose and it took a long time for his nose to stop bleeding. Also the tech or customer support person may not be very knowledgeable, but I'd be willing to bet that each company has sharp R&D people.
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Penn State Proud

Steven · « **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2004, 04:49:47 PM »

quote:
Several people have been giving a certain trustworthy member a hard time about "blindly" following Brunswick Techniques. I meant to add this on the other post, but this is a good place as well. Brunswick is known for having long living coverstocks, so why is it so hard to believe them when they say to use heat to de-oil the cover?

Strider: Good to see you reply. I looked for that "trustworthy member" you referenced, but couldn't find anything posted. I see that Greg Hoppe is getting whacked around (appropriately), but I'll keep my eye out for the other poster mentioned.

I'm about to post a long winded message, so please bear with me. This is an important topic, and I'm in the mood to ramble, so here it goes......

I work part-time in a proshop, and I do most of the stuff my friend (and owner of the shop) doesn't want to -- clean balls, polish balls, sand balls, refinish balls, de-oil balls in the Revivor ball oven, revive balls using Hook Again, etc. In fact, I've bestowed upon myself the official title of CMT (Coverstock Management Technician). I'm not proclaiming myself to be an expert in the area, but I think I've 'been there, done that' about as much as anyone when it comes to dealing with coverstocks.

Anyway, I've put dozens (and dozens) of balls through the Revivor oven -- just about every make and model you can think of. And many of the same balls I've put through several times. And recently we've made good use of the Hook Again system as an alternative/ compliment to the Revivor. Given this experience -- for what it's worth -- the following are my thoughts:

On the Revivor, I have never had a ball crack or otherwise show damage from a given treatment. I'm always very careful to not leave a ball inside for too long, and covers rarely get too hot to easily take the ball out of the unit. However, along the lines of "Greg T"'s comments, I believe there are longer term negative effects that come into play. The heat not only extracts oil, but I believe some of the plastisizer as well -- it's a byproduct of the process and is simply unavoidable. I'm not a chemist, but I'm fairly certain this is happening. This coupled with shell expansion/contraction due to the heating and cooling cycle render the shell more brittle than it was before treatment. And each successive treatment makes the problem worse. I don't believe its just chance that several of the balls that we've put through the machine more than once eventually develop cracks in strange spots. And the phenomena is not limited to any specific manufacturers. I've seen it on Brunswick, Lane#1, Storm, and Ebonite equipment.

On Hook Again, I've only witnessed good results. I was as sceptical as anyone at first, but I've seen balls that were "dead" in every sense of the word acquire new life. The product is new, so its hard to make any long term predictions of possible ill effects. However, my sense is that Ebonite has a winner on it's hands.

Finally, there was a statement by "Greg T" that needs to be emphasized:

quote:
Keep in mind that a lot of these so called techs know nothing. They are clean out of college, snot nosed kids sitting in front of a computer and accessing a database as you speak to them. How many actually seek the proper answers to questions? No one knows.

While the above might be a somewhat of an exageration, there is more fact than fiction. I've had a number of back-and-forth technical conversations with Dale Garner at Columbia and Bill Monce at Track, and these guys are top notch; they definitely know their business. But they're also honest about what they don't know, and it's become clear to me that ball companies really know very little about the science (and art) of on-going coverstock maintenance. And the reason is simple -- that's not their core business. They simply don't spend much time thinking about or doing R&D on this stuff. The cold and hard fact is that anytime money and human bandwith is required, it had better generate revenue or it's not going to happen.

I welcome any input.
--------------------
"You want the truth? -- You can't handle the truth! "

Edited on 3/17/2004 6:19 PM

Strider · « **Reply #12 on:** March 17, 2004, 05:10:39 PM »

I'm leaving work in a few minutes. I'll look over what you wrote and post something tomorrow.

Yes, you know I was implying Greg. I believe he was telling people to use exactly what Brunswick recommends to refresh equipment. I know he isn't open minded when talking about cleaning regiments, but for oil removal, heat is what Brunswick recommends.
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Penn State Proud

freedomrules3 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 17, 2004, 05:53:23 PM »

I've baked several balls in the oven low temp very careful about watching for overheating (i check the temp of core by using the thumbhole since it is deeper), I have had good results with it but the ball returns to dead faster than the first time. i was wondering if something like baking soda, or oil absorber used by mechanics would work. maybe fill a box and let the ball sit in it for a couple of days. maybe even powder the oil absorber to make it a bit finer to absorb the oil out of the ball. I have no idea whether or not this would work but it seems like the concept that the hook again system uses. then again it may not work at all but if the ball is truly dead then you arent losing anything anyway.Ebonite and all the ball companies aren't going to tell you the real way to do it because they would rather sell you a new ball. todays balls are know to be great out of the box but give up lots faster than the balls of old. next time i need to get the oil out of a ball i am going to try the oil absorber found at automotive stores. worth a shot, if it works i will let everyone know. baking really can't be that good for a bowling ball but like i said i have done it before with no ill effects just doesn't take long to be back to dead again.
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AS I GET OLDER I AM LESS AND LESS TOLERABLE TO CHILDISH BEHAVIOR AND MEAN PEOPLE

Borincano · « **Reply #14 on:** March 17, 2004, 10:06:59 PM »

Just use a hair blow dryer and a mixture of acetone and alcohol to wipe off the oil that seeps out. Then use the Doc elixir. Then is your responsibility to wipe the ball every time you throw the ball.

You take care of your ball and the ball will take care of you.

Author Topic: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning) (Read 6434 times)

Not done

WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Moe

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Fatboy8

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Not done

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Moe

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Doc Hollywood

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Jeffrevs

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Not done

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Jeffrevs

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Strider

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Strider

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Steven

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Strider

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

freedomrules3

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)

Borincano

Re: WHOA!!! must get oil off of Raging Inferno.. (Cleaning)