BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Columbia 300 => Topic started by: thedjs on January 08, 2015, 12:12:47 PM
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I've got this ball and can't get the backend reaction I expected. It's drilled with the pin about 4 1/2" to 5" from the pap and above the ring finger. I'm bowling on dry conditions and the ball gets great length but has only a slight turn on the backend. Does anyone have one of these and have you had a similar problem? Do you thing that changing the surface would help with the backend reaction?
Any help would be appreciated before I trade it in for something stronger.
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Couple of days ago I saw a guy enter the proshop and leave with one of those, he was getting a nice reaction! Pin above the ring finger, the ocnditions where medium to heavy and he was getting good lenght and a nice skid flip type of reaction even he wasnt a power player, more of a tweener, I dont know his drilling specifics but it looked pretty std to me.
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I've got this ball and can't get the backend reaction I expected. It's drilled with the pin about 4 1/2" to 5" from the pap and above the ring finger. I'm bowling on dry conditions and the ball gets great length but has only a slight turn on the backend. Does anyone have one of these and have you had a similar problem? Do you thing that changing the surface would help with the backend reaction?
Any help would be appreciated before I trade it in for something stronger.
It is generally considered a medium oil ball, even though it is polished. If you are bowling on dry, "drier" or light oil, it could conceivably be burning up in the midlane and using up its energy early, even with a 4.5 - 5" pin-PAP.
Where are you playing with it?
This type of ball with a lower VAL angle and a pin distance, such as you described would for the average rev guy be more of an inside line type of ball, like 3rd arrow and deeper.
What other ball/surface/drilling have you used on this condition?
(Also I assume you are not speed dominant and have more of matched speed/revs type f release.)
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I've got this ball and can't get the backend reaction I expected. It's drilled with the pin about 4 1/2" to 5" from the pap and above the ring finger. I'm bowling on dry conditions and the ball gets great length but has only a slight turn on the backend. Does anyone have one of these and have you had a similar problem? Do you thing that changing the surface would help with the backend reaction?
Any help would be appreciated before I trade it in for something stronger.
It is generally considered a medium oil ball, even though it is polished. If you are bowling on dry, "drier" or light oil, it could conceivably be burning up in the midlane and using up its energy early, even with a 4.5 - 5" pin-PAP.
Where are you playing with it?
This type of ball with a lower VAL angle and a pin distance, such as you described would for the average rev guy be more of an inside line type of ball, like 3rd arrow and deeper.
What other ball/surface/drilling have you used on this condition?
(Also I assume you are not speed dominant and have more of matched speed/revs type f release.)
I'm bowling on dry conditions and am inside (standing between 25 and 30) and looking at the third arrow. The ball is hitting the pocket but with not much force and just does not carry. I've tried deeper angles but it won't come back. Even when I move in it just won't carry very well. My other balls are an Ebonite Legacy which is way too strong. It's drilled with the pin 4 1/2" from the pap and above the ring finger. My second ball is a Track Lx05 drilled the same but polished. It too is a little too strong. What I was looking for was a ball that would have good length to get through the mids but have more of a skid/snap type reaction. After thinking about it I'm not sure that a surface change will help. So, I'm leaning towards trading this one in on something else maybe like a Columbia Crazy Antics. Might also consider a Track Tour X. (Local pro shop only handles Ebonite family) However, I'm sure open to any suggestions.
By the way, I'm not speed dominant. My speed has increased slightly but would still be considered slow.
Thanks for the help.
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i had to knock the shine off mine because it was just going to long
with a light 3000 by hand, the ball picks up a little sooner and it smooth and continuous
it wont hurt to try some surface
if you have to trade it in, and you are truly on a dryer shot, something like the deep freeze would most likely be better
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I've got this ball and can't get the backend reaction I expected. It's drilled with the pin about 4 1/2" to 5" from the pap and above the ring finger. I'm bowling on dry conditions and the ball gets great length but has only a slight turn on the backend. Does anyone have one of these and have you had a similar problem? Do you thing that changing the surface would help with the backend reaction?
Any help would be appreciated before I trade it in for something stronger.
It is generally considered a medium oil ball, even though it is polished. If you are bowling on dry, "drier" or light oil, it could conceivably be burning up in the midlane and using up its energy early, even with a 4.5 - 5" pin-PAP.
Where are you playing with it?
This type of ball with a lower VAL angle and a pin distance, such as you described would for the average rev guy be more of an inside line type of ball, like 3rd arrow and deeper.
What other ball/surface/drilling have you used on this condition?
(Also I assume you are not speed dominant and have more of matched speed/revs type f release.)
I'm bowling on dry conditions and am inside (standing between 25 and 30) and looking at the third arrow. The ball is hitting the pocket but with not much force and just does not carry. I've tried deeper angles but it won't come back. Even when I move in it just won't carry very well. My other balls are an Ebonite Legacy which is way too strong. It's drilled with the pin 4 1/2" from the pap and above the ring finger. My second ball is a Track Lx05 drilled the same but polished. It too is a little too strong. What I was looking for was a ball that would have good length to get through the mids but have more of a skid/snap type reaction. After thinking about it I'm not sure that a surface change will help. So, I'm leaning towards trading this one in on something else maybe like a Columbia Crazy Antics. Might also consider a Track Tour X. (Local pro shop only handles Ebonite family) However, I'm sure open to any suggestions.
By the way, I'm not speed dominant. My speed has increased slightly but would still be considered slow.
Thanks for the help.
Remember that the Eruption Pro only has a differential of .036, which is relatively small. For a symmetric, using the longish pin-PAP of 4.5-5" reduces the resultant flare potential even further. I'd suggest a P3 or a P4 weight hole to strengthen the differential and increase the potential backend, before you trade it in.
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come to think of it after reading Charlest pst, mine is drilled with a stronger pin-pap than i normally use and its very arcing. i usually drill 5" pin-pap for most balls, this one is more like 4.25" or less.
So Charlest point is very valid, weight hole is a great idea
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Thanks so much for the advice. I probably should have had the ball drilled stronger to begin with and then maybe I wouldn't have a problem. Anyway, I think I'll have the pro shop put in a motion hole and see if that will cure the lack of back end.
Thanks again.
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Thanks so much for the advice. I probably should have had the ball drilled stronger to begin with and then maybe I wouldn't have a problem. Anyway, I think I'll have the pro shop put in a motion hole and see if that will cure the lack of back end.
Thanks again.
BUT, remember a motion hole also increase length. That will make it more uncontrollable!!