Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 09:36:17 AM
Ok, to test this concoction I mixed some SG concentrate with denatured ethyl alcohol, 50/50. It turned a funny milky green. Immediately I am wary. I used it but it seemed neither as effective as straight SG nor as effective as plain ethyl alcohol. It was okay, but nothing special.
I'm wondering what happened to the mixture, because it turned that strange color.
Should I use plain isopropanol (isoprpyl alcohol), instead of the much stronger denatured ethyl alcohol??
By the way, in case anyone was worried if I were cheating, while straight denatured ethyl alcohol is illegal, it is or was the main ingredient in many Storm cleaners. I saw it on their labels. So, if it is diluted enough, I assume it's safe for resin coverstocks.
Any ideas, guys?
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Post by: TTforshort on January 13, 2008, 05:59:36 PM
I have never tried mixing the two components you mention. I have used both alone and not impressed with either.
TT
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"Following the course of least resistance makes for crooked rivers and crooked men."
Post by: jbruno6 on January 13, 2008, 06:10:02 PM
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A half ten is not a great shot. No, you shouldn't have carried it.
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Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 06:11:40 PM
I find ethyl alcohol quite potent for a lot of the dirt on bowling balls. SG does leave a residue, which I think, is why some people use plainhousehold alcohol with it.
For "dry gas", the main component is methanol, which is quite toxic to humans. It does "dry up" water in gas, as it condenses in colder weather in gas tanks. I think with so much of our gasoline now having ethanol in it, there's less need for dry gas these days.
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Post by: chadw1974 on January 13, 2008, 06:12:55 PM
Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 06:14:27 PM
quote:
turned orange, correct?
What turned orange?
My mixture went from the clear kelly green of pure SG to a milky mint green, when I added the alcohol.
quote:
i use it, but its not as great as I had hoped. Nothing like a pro shop cleaning.
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A half ten is not a great shot. No, you shouldn't have carried it.
www.jeterisanoverratedplayer.blogspot.com
I still prefer Legends cleaner, but I wanted to see what others have found in this often recommended mixture of SG and alcohol.
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Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 06:15:13 PM
quote:
Don't waste your time with this stuff. I was using a mixture of SG/water/alcohol & it wasn't getting the job done on my Resurgence. My Resurgence had become the weakest ball in my bag so I bought some good ball cleaner last weekend & it perked the ball right up. I instantly gained 9 boards of hook by using a better cleaner.
Agreed.
I still prefer Legends cleaner, but I wanted to see what others have found in this often recommended mixture of SG and alcohol.
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Post by: johns811 on January 13, 2008, 06:15:49 PM
Post by: scotts33 on January 13, 2008, 06:16:18 PM
quote:
Agreed.
I still prefer Legends cleaner, but I wanted to see what others have found in this often recommended mixture of SG and alcohol.
I kinda wondered too. I use Legends cleaner also. Gave up on SG couple years back.
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Scott
Post by: RandyO on January 13, 2008, 06:19:21 PM
Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 06:19:23 PM
quote:
I use SG, water (i buy the concentrated SG because it goes farther) and rubbing alcohol. About equal parts. Works fine, no color change. SG by itself seems fine also.
must be the ethyl alcohol vs the isopropyl alcohol that responsible for the color change. I'll test it in some tiny portions to check.
Yup! that's it.
SG + isopropyl = clear green
SG + ethanol = milky green
Chemistry just fascinates me. Wonder what's going on.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Edited on 1/13/2008 7:29 PM
Post by: J_Mac on January 13, 2008, 06:27:32 PM
We have some sort of alcohol at work now for dealing with a new, water based primer. I think I'll grab a few ounces of this other alcohol, verify what type it is, and see if I get the same results Jeff.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."
Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 07:12:50 PM
I used 70% isopropyl since that was all we had in the house. I have been looking in several different supermarkets and drug stores and it's been a long time since I've even seen the 91% isopropyl. It's out there somewhere.
Maybe I'll try some Witch Hazel. Love the way that smells!
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Post by: J_Mac on January 13, 2008, 07:21:41 PM
quote:
Thanks, Jon.
I used 70% isopropyl since that was all we had in the house. I have been looking in several different supermarkets and drug stores and it's been a long time since I've even seen the 91% isopropyl. It's out there somewhere.
Maybe I'll try some Witch Hazel. Love the way that smells!
I would imagine that Witch Hazel is mostly distilled or deionized water...
But I'd be wrong - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Witch_hazel_(astringent)
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."
Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 07:23:10 PM
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Post by: JohnP on January 13, 2008, 07:31:24 PM
quote:
I used 70% isopropyl since that was all we had in the house. I have been looking in several different supermarkets and drug stores and it's been a long time since I've even seen the 91% isopropyl. It's out there somewhere.
I bought 91% at WalMart. I really don't see any advantage over the 70%, though. When I mix it with SG, I also add water, so just buy the 70% then use a little less water. -- JohnP
Post by: 700Virgin on January 13, 2008, 07:32:54 PM
Equal parts 90% iso alcohol, SG, H2O. Works fine.
Post by: justdale on January 13, 2008, 07:33:04 PM
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Dale Williams
Columbia 300 Utah Amateur Staff
Post by: J_Mac on January 13, 2008, 07:34:57 PM
quote:
if your using simple green why would you want to use alcohol with it, Simple Green is great all by itself
Assists in drying time and gets rid of the residue that some people report seeing with SG and water alone.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."
Post by: burly1 on January 13, 2008, 07:37:07 PM
Post by: charlest on January 13, 2008, 07:58:13 PM
quote:
What is wrong with going to the proshop and buying a cleaner that is FORMULATED FOR USE ON BOWLING BALLS!? Not something that you would use to clean you toilet.
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www.inthezoneproshop.com
brian@inthezoneproshop.com
BECAUSE, as I said above:
"I still prefer Legends cleaner, but I wanted to see what others have found in this often recommended mixture of SG and alcohol."
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Post by: Brickguy221 on January 13, 2008, 11:16:10 PM
quote:
it's been a long time since I've even seen the 91% isopropyl. It's out there somewhere.
Charlest, I buy 91% isopropyl alcohol at a CVS Pharmacy. I don't know if you have CVS Pharmacy Stores in your area or not.
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Brick
Edited on 1/14/2008 11:14 PM
Post by: shelley on January 14, 2008, 08:22:08 AM
I've never used denatured ethyl alcohol, only isopropyl, but it does ok. For a daily cleaner it's better than straight alcohol but definitely not as good as Legends.SH
Post by: on January 14, 2008, 08:28:26 AM
I use Simple Green to clean motor oil off the driveway, so it's strong enough to clean lane conditioner off the ball.
On edit, here's the link to USBC ball cleaners:
http://www.bowl.com/specs/ballCleaner.aspx
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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
Edited on 1/14/2008 9:34 AM
Edited on 1/14/2008 9:40 AM
Post by: Strapper_Squared on January 14, 2008, 08:57:23 AM
S^2
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Post by: charlest on January 14, 2008, 10:20:31 AM
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Post by: charlest on January 14, 2008, 10:25:40 AM
quote:
Last time I checked denatured alcohol is also illegal.
Yup, notclay. I posted that in one of my replies up above. Note that it is also in STorm's cleaners, since diluting it must reduce its ability yo soften resin coverstocks.
quote:
I've used Simple Green and water mix (50/50) for years and it works for me.
FWIW, same here. keep 2 bottles on a garage shelf: one, 50/50 SG + water and,two, the concentrated spray bottle for when the mix is not strong enough.
That's how I discoovered that you shouldn't use it on windows AND that it leaves a film that must be double wiped off.
quote:
The key is to spray it on the ball then WAIT 20-30 seconds to give it a chance to break down the oil. Then you can wipe it off. Not many cleaners are good unless you give them that time to do their job.
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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
especially true of some, if not all degreasers.
Thanks for the comments.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Post by: 1MechEng on January 14, 2008, 10:49:57 AM
I think the issue with your test is that the denatured alcohol typically has additives that render the alcohol undrinkable (i.e. - the "denaturing process"). Depending on the additive, you are likley seeing a reaction between that and the simple green which results in a color change to the solution.
FYI - the ethanol used as a flex fuel is typically 70-85% ethanol, and 15-30% denaturant (usually unleaded gasoline). You can find small retail bottles of ethyl alcohol with other additives (usu. 10% methanol), but to avoid the alcohol tax for consumptive products you have to have a minimum of 5% of denaturant.
It would be interesting to see if the cleaning power was affected by the denaturant ...
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======================
Dan
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Engineering * Bowling = a fun and practical application of rotational kinematics.
Post by: JohnP on January 15, 2008, 01:23:55 PM
1. Why use Simple Green/rubbing alcohol/water instead of a good known ball cleaner? Answer: $$$$$ + the mixture does an adequate job. And yes, I have several very good cleaners.
2. Why add the rubbing alcohol? Answer: rubbing alcohol is better than Simple Green for removing belt marks. -- JohnP
Post by: charlest on January 16, 2008, 08:45:32 AM
Not sure if I'll use it after bowling or not. If I want to remove lane oil, I want it off "now" for it doesn't soak into the ball. I'm still unsure about the SG mixture. Maybe I'll try it on Lanemasters and Visionary balls because of their coverstock's nature.
Thanks for all the replies, suggestions and comments (of a positive nature, anyway
)--------------------
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Post by: JohnP on January 16, 2008, 10:17:01 AM
Post by: BAPSBill on January 16, 2008, 10:57:49 AM
a window cleaner with amonia, isopropyl alcohol (70-90), and water. I don't quite remember the percentages, but it' a like 50% SG - 40% gass cleaner, 5% alcohol, 5% water. I mixed a batch and am still using it, It works well with no residue.
Post by: TDC57 on January 16, 2008, 11:07:48 AM
From this site I was told equal parts of Simple Green, rubbing alcohol and water. I mixed up a batch and I will say I don't believe there is a cleaner made for bowling balls that does any better. It really gets the job done. I do still use Clean and Dull but not nearly as often and when I do I follow it with the Simple Green solution and I have had great ball reaction from all my stuff with no cover death at all.
Post by: Juggernaut on January 16, 2008, 11:17:27 AM
I make a mixture of 50% Isopropyl alcohol ( 91% type), 25% windex, and 25% pure ACETONE ( oops, theres that illegal substance ). I guess with the alcohol being only a 91% mixture itself, I actually end up with a 45 1/2% alcohol, 4 1/2% water, 25% windex, and 25% acetone.
I clean my equipment thouroughly after every set. I have used it on equipment from virtually every manufacturer at some point ( except lanemasters) with no ill effects and have had my equipment durometer tested to insure that there is no softening of the coverstock.
I have had great luck with this mixture and have found that, for me at least, it seems to extend the period between rejuvenations without losing performance. It doesn't dull polished surfaces, nor does it glisten up dull ones.
I don't use it during competition, only before or after.
P.S. I once brought a "dead" ball back to life using heat and Berryman's B12 chemtool to remove the excess oil and help dissolve it out of the heat opened pores. Granted, I had nothing to lose as the ball was absolutely dead, but this did work and I had the ball checked at the shop. The hardness was still fine and the surface held up fine to polish and use.
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I'm really tired of the whining, so, JUST SHUT UP AND BOWL!
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Post by: Brickguy221 on January 16, 2008, 12:34:56 PM
quote:
I once brought a "dead" ball back to life using heat and Berryman's B12 chemtool to remove the excess oil and help dissolve it out of the heat opened pores
That Berrymans B12 will cut oil-grease off anything.
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Brick
Post by: charlest on January 16, 2008, 05:48:35 PM
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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