Author Topic: Best Polishes (Read 6585 times)

Trackoholic · « **on:** February 22, 2008, 03:38:47 AM »

Deferent Polishes have differs qualities from my little experience with a few of them. I have tried Track Magic Shine, Beans, and 3M Finness it 2. From my experience here's is the qualities in each:

3M Finnessit2- Hard and longer lasting
Magic Shine- Very Tacky strong reaction to the dry
Beans- Very easy to apply, Very shiny

I like having a few different options for polishing and wanted some opinions of your experiences with different polishes.

Which is best for: Length, Backend, Longer lasting, benefits of gritless or with grit, etc.
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Inertia-Illusion-Mystic-Neptune-Plastic

NicholasE · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2008, 12:22:21 PM »

I don't apply my own polishes so I couldn't tell you how hard or simple it is but I've had the brunswick Ruff buff on one ball and it made it go longer with more backend because the ball was layed out to arch. Then I have brunswick high gloss on a Total shock & Awe. I have two TS&A's one at 400 grit and the other at 400 grit with high gloss. They both have the same reaction but the polished one doesn't move as much on the backend. It makes for a great 1, 2 punch. Once the 400 grit TSA starts over reacting just switch to the polished one and I'm right back in the same groove.
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Throwing hambones since 2005.
www.myspace.com/nestes12

charlest · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2008, 05:39:11 PM »

Trackaholic,

There is an essential difference in polishes that you have missed.

Basically there are two classes of polishes, ones with abrasive in them and ones without. There is one sub-class of abrasive polishes, called rubbing compounds.

Polishes that have no abrasive in them will basically keep the ball's base sanding level of grit level, np matter how much polish you apply. Keep in mind that more polish applied with more pressure for a longer perios of time will make the ball go longer. Some examples are Legends Factory Finish polish and Brunswick's High Gloss polish

Polishes that have abrasive in them (and there are different amount of abrasives in them) will change the underlying level of grit or sanding level PLUS add a dose of polish/shine to the ball. Some examples are Storm's Xtra SHine, Storm's Step polishes, Beans polish and Storm's Reacta Shine.

Rubbing compounds have intense, and heavy abrasives in them and light amount of polish. SOme examples are Brunswick's Rough Buff and Track's (now Ebonite's Powerhouse) Clean and Sheen and Ultimate's Quick Kut and Polish. Ultimate's and Track's main purpose is to remove the lines caused when sanding off a plug. They take or HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO TAKE a 400 grit sanding to a 1000 grit sanding and add a light polish to a ball. I have used Cleana nd SHeen many times to take a 600 grit sanding to a what is called "compound polish". It looks halfway betwene a fine sanding and a shine. It looks like neither. Roguh Buff is a HIGHLY aggressive rubbing compound which also adds a light polish. It can transform a 220 grit sanding into the semi-polish equivalnet of a 2000 grit matte finish, which Brunsick calls a "ROugh Buff"
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

Trackoholic · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:48:20 AM »

Thanks Charlest, Knowlegable people like you make this site what it is. Think of how much business is generated from this site with all of the links, and the traffic this site gets is because we know there are people like you here that are willing to share valuable info. So, Thanks to you and all who take the time to help.

Now can I pick your brain with one more Q? Is there any way of taking a surface of 4000 up to say (5000) by using a polish with grit. If so what kind would you recommend. I already have Beans but the grit is a secret, (Secret Sauce), I've tried to inquire.

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Inertia-Illusion-Mystic-Neptune-Plastic

azguy · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2008, 11:23:36 AM »

Just to throw my 2 cents in. As Storm's site said a couple years back, Diamond Gloss would go up to 5000. Not a good way to make sure, but that's what they said. I know I've used it, and it has a 'brighter' shine than anything else I've used.
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az guy aka: R & L Bowlers Pro
rlbowlerspro@cox.net
www.rlbowlerspro.com

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** February 23, 2008, 03:54:04 PM »

quote:
Thanks Charlest, Knowlegable people like you make this site what it is. Think of how much business is generated from this site with all of the links, and the traffic this site gets is because we know there are people like you here that are willing to share valuable info. So, Thanks to you and all who take the time to help.

Now can I pick your brain with one more Q? Is there any way of taking a surface of 4000 up to say (5000) by using a polish with grit. If so what kind would you recommend. I already have Beans but the grit is a secret, (Secret Sauce), I've tried to inquire.

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Inertia-Illusion-Mystic-Neptune-Plastic

No, because they not only change the grit, they also add polish/shine. There are "5000" grit polishes, like Azguy points out, but that number and all numbers on polishes are THEORETICAL maximums.

If you need more length on a 4000 grit ball with polish provides, there are 4 alternatives that I am aware of:
1. Sand to 4000 grit and apply on of the reduced hook and backend polishes such as, Ebonite's Powerhouse Extender polish, Neo-Tac's Control-It, Lanemasters Extended Length polish.
2. Get some Trizact White pads and a CAB or sponge to back it with. The white pad, cerium oxide is much finer than Abralon's 4000 grit pad. This is one place from which I have bought them: http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Abrasives,%20Woodworking/CatID/Sanding%20Discs,%20Solid%20Surface/showprod/1
If you apply polish on top of this, it will go really long.
3. You can also try using a 4000 grit pad until you've worn it much finer. It doesn't take much to do that but you really don't know what you have, but it will almost have a shine on it.
4. Redrill the ball to use as weak a pin position as possible, like 6" pin-PAP, then change the surface to whatever you need.

But, my opinion is if you need a finer finish than 4000 grit, given the current state of affairs of bowling balls, you're manipulating the wrong ball.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

86camaroman · « **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2008, 04:10:22 PM »

My question is I have a gravity shift it is 1500 polished from the factory. How do I acheive the same out of box finish. I have reacta shine also. What should I sand with before polishing with reacta shine

Trackoholic · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2008, 11:44:20 PM »

Charlest, You're probably right about choosing the wrong piece for the lane conditions. I'll go back to the Neptune for our med. house shots, I just wanted to try some stronger equipment. My Illusion is drilled 5 inch pin to pap one inch above bridge and I would hate to redrill it. Ill bring it to tourneys and practice with it for increasing my ball speed. Right now I am rev dominant and working on getting my speed up, so throwing the Illusion will make me do just that. Thanks again
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Inertia-Illusion-Mystic-Neptune-Plastic

charlest · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2008, 04:01:15 AM »

quote:
My question is I have a gravity shift it is 1500 polished from the factory. How do I acheive the same out of box finish. I have reacta shine also. What should I sand with before polishing with reacta shine

For whatever it's worth, my opinion -
From what I have found, Storm/Roto-Grip polished balls are quite slippery in their out-of-the-box condition.

Aside: The GS is VERY new. Did you remove the shine by hand to get an earlier roll? It couldn't have worn off already or could it?

Stock finish is their standard 1500 grit polished.
I'd try an 800 - 1000 grit sanding, then follow with a gentle/light application of Reacta Shine. The problem/concern is you don't want to pass the point at which you need the ball. Test it; then if necessary, apply a 2nd coat to get a higher gloss. AT first do not worry about the appearance. Testing results are much more important than the appearance. Make sure you test it on a condition as close as possible to what you will be bowling on. Apply more polish as needed.

At the factory I believe they use the Step polishes, but they use machines and you can get their precise finish without a LOT of testing. Using Reacta SHine or Xtra SHine, which are very good polishes, is perfect for at home AND pro shop use.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

NicholasE · « **Reply #9 on:** February 28, 2008, 08:24:11 AM »

I want to clarify one thing. I have a Total Shock & Awe that has been polished before I got it. When I got it, the ball went a pretty good distance and arched very hard on the backend. Now after about 300+ games its getting very dull and starts turning way to early for a medium house shot. I loved the reaction that I was getting before with it polished up so my plans is to sand it to 400 grit and repolish but I was wanting to make sure that the Brunswick High Gloss would keep the 400 grit sanding but just add length before the ball reacted but still keep a strong move to the pocket without killing the reaction all together.

Thanks,
NicholasE
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Throwing hambones since 2005.
www.myspace.com/nestes12

tenpin477 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 14, 2008, 04:50:12 PM »

I have a cousin who uses Turtle Wax to shine his equipment and it works really well, Im going to try it on my stuff this weekend as I have one ball that is a little too strong for its job right now, need to limit the hook a little bit.

Kid Jete · « **Reply #11 on:** March 14, 2008, 04:56:05 PM »

quote:
I have a cousin who uses Turtle Wax to shine his equipment and it works really well, Im going to try it on my stuff this weekend as I have one ball that is a little too strong for its job right now, need to limit the hook a little bit.

DON'T use turtle wax! Almost all waxes/polishes used on cars contain silicates(I think that's the spelling) and will clog the poors in the ball and kill the reaction, not to mention it's nearly impossible to restore the ball to it's original performance without a serious resurface. Stick with products designed for bowling balls not vehicles.

Edited on 3/14/2008 4:57 PM

tenpin477 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 14, 2008, 04:59:50 PM »

How badly do you think it would effect the ball reaction?

Kid Jete · « **Reply #13 on:** March 14, 2008, 05:05:15 PM »

quote:
How badly do you think it would effect the ball reaction?

In most cases it would almost comletely kill it. Car wax will turn almost any ball into a spare ball, meaning it will skid all the way down the lane.

tenpin477 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 14, 2008, 05:07:27 PM »

Even on a really dried up burnt shot?

I guess I won't try it and be out the 3 bucks I spent on Turtle Wax today

Author Topic: Best Polishes (Read 6585 times)

Trackoholic

Best Polishes

NicholasE

Re: Best Polishes

charlest

Re: Best Polishes

Trackoholic

Re: Best Polishes

azguy

Re: Best Polishes

charlest

Re: Best Polishes

86camaroman

Re: Best Polishes

Trackoholic

Re: Best Polishes

charlest

Re: Best Polishes

NicholasE

Re: Best Polishes

tenpin477

Re: Best Polishes

Kid Jete

Re: Best Polishes

tenpin477

Re: Best Polishes

Kid Jete

Re: Best Polishes

tenpin477

Re: Best Polishes