Andrew, thanks for the chart. I have printed it off from the link you supplied. I'll take a look at sandpaper vs abralon the next ball I do.
Thanks to the others that contributed here.
As for duplicating the factory finish, I only try to come as close as possible when a NIB ball performed exactly like I wanted OOB which is the case for a ball I recently obtained. I wanted to try it on less oily conditions, so I changed surface and polished lightly and it did exactly what I wanted on that condition. Then I bought another ball for that specific condition, so that I could return the ball to it's original factory cover and I didn't get that exact reaction that it originally had. Thus the reason for my topic here.
I alter a balls surface right out of the box as some of you do if it doesn't do what I want, but in this specific case, the ball out of box was perfect until I changed sanding grit and polished it.
Icewall may have a good point in using the abralon pads by hand with lots of water as I will be the first to admit that a spinner seems really hard on abralon pads no matter how light the pressure used, especially when compared to a haus machine that turns at a way slower speed, thus it's pads last much longer.
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick