Author Topic: Coarse Sanding question (Read 2673 times)

johns811 · « **on:** November 29, 2004, 06:14:23 AM »

I buddy handed me a really beat up purple Nitro. It has some pretty nice ding marks in it and was tracked pretty bad. I did some repairing of the dings, plugged the thumb and took it to spinner.

I started with 150 wet sand, then went 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 polish. The ball looks really good but you can still see the scratches from what I suspect is the coarse paper. Is 150 too heavy? This ball was pretty bad so I wanted to be pretty aggresive with it. I'm surprised how well the ball came out but I wonder what I need to do in the future to avoid getting those scratch marks in the cover.

Thanks.

tekneek · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2004, 12:02:18 PM »

The courser the grit the stiffer the paper. I have found that by pre soaking the coarser paper it helps make it more pliable, and using lighter pressure on the ball while using a cab block helps eliminate the scaring on the ball.

charlest · « **Reply #2 on:** December 01, 2004, 07:45:55 AM »

quote:
I started with 150 wet sand, then went 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 polish. The ball looks really good but you can still see the scratches from what I suspect is the coarse paper. Is 150 too heavy? This ball was pretty bad so I wanted to be pretty aggresive with it. I'm surprised how well the ball came out but I wonder what I need to do in the future to avoid getting those scratch marks in the cover.

Thanks.

There are some compunds like Ultimate's Quick Kut & Polish,
http://www.bowlersparadise.com/shop/cp/ultimate_bowling/ultimate_quick_kut_and_polish_quart.shtml,
which smooths out the sanding marks from 220/400 grit sandpaper, plus puts a light polish on it. Its main use is for when pro shops use a router to remove the plug material.

Track's Clean N Sheen is another such compound:
http://www.bowlersparadise.com/shop/cp/track/track_clean_n_sheen_quart.shtml
Here's the quote:
"Removing sanding marks and scratches on polyester, urethane and reactive resin balls. To match our factory "sheen" finish, sand ball with 400 grit sandpaper, then use Clean and Sheen."

The harder you press, once the sanding lines have been removed the higher the resulting shine will be. When the lines are to your satisfaction, you can finish the ball any way you want.
--------------------
"When we choose an action,
we also choose the consequences of that action.

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #3 on:** December 07, 2004, 02:24:22 AM »

150 grit is REALLY heavy, I'd never tried this even when the ball was messed up, because it will leave very deep scratches. Best advise is to have it resurfaced in a pro shop. I have seen woundrous things on a Ebonite Predator which was BADLY marred (5mm deep and wide!) and looked as if used in WWII against tanks. When it came back, only the deepest cracks were visible, amazing.

If you are to sand a ball surface to get deep scratches out, I would recommend not to bet below 400 grit - and even this is a lot. It is better to be patient and sand the ball a while, rather than doing it with violence and pressure. Heavy abrasives can, besides scratches, be dangerous for the track area, which could lose its circular shape! Sanding on one spot may even influence the ball's mass distribution?

I highly recommend 3M pads, used under flowing water. They are very strong and give a very good result at home. I haven't used compounds by myself yet, but for surface finishing they should do a good job?
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany

"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe

Author Topic: Coarse Sanding question (Read 2673 times)

johns811

Coarse Sanding question

tekneek

Re: Coarse Sanding question

charlest

Re: Coarse Sanding question

dizzyfugu

Re: Coarse Sanding question