BallReviews
General Category => Coverstock Preparation => Topic started by: Nor Cal Bowler on December 18, 2008, 02:22:19 AM
-
How long should you keep the ball on each surface, from start to finish?
--------------------
Visionary Test Staffer 08/09
www.visionarybowling.com
Looking for the following...
16# Visionary Frankie May Gryphon
16# Banger Hole Finder Pearl
16# InSite Revelation
-
I think it depends on a few factors including:
1- The type of resurfacing machine (some are faster than others),
2- The starting surface grit of the ball and where you want it to end up.
If, for example, you started by hitting the ball with 220 on the spinner to save some time, then wanted to take it up to say 2000... You may have it on the machine for 15-20 minutes at each stage of abrasive in between. That's only a guess, but we've had a Haus, and then an Ebonite resurfacer, and now the Storm Surface Factory.
The Surface Factory does it in a fraction of the time of the other two, but all three work well if the operator has them adjusted properly.
--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
www.brunswickbowling.com
-
Hey Nor Cal, (I've had a Haus for over 10 yrs-one of the originals)
Along with what notclay has stated, it depends on how tracked up the ball is to start with in regards to cutting and the amount of time needed. Tracked up "reactive" balls for me would take sometimes over 30 minutes, minor track around 10-15. The next grits used from burgandy and grey also depend on how new or used they are, the more worn the pads are, the longer you have to leave them on. If they're new, I usually only run for about 10-12 minutes.
If cutting blades and pads are new, it only takes me about 10-15 minutes per. Urethane balls take much longer as it is a much harder/denser material. Hope this helps some..
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder
"El" Presidente of the Legion
-
If you use the diamond wheels, specially on the Haus, you aren't going to keep in on any one grit for more than about 3-5 minutes. Those diamond wheels can take the ball down fast. The Cooke Machine diamond pads took a little longer, but not much.
After I got my Cooke Machine, I only used the Haus for the diamond wheels. Takes the flat spots out like no other. Then moved the ball over to the Cooke for the 320, 400, 600, etc.... I personally liked scotch brite on the machines, not as precise, but cheaper and easier to get.
Nor Cal, start to finish, you should be able to do a complete resurface in 10 minutes, 15 if the ball is terrible or urethane. Biggest factors are how bad the ball is to begin with, do you use diamond wheels, and how fresh are your sanding pads/scotch brite?
--------------------
-
Hey Nor Cal,
I'd follow Mike's guidelines as I have a much older machine (what I meant by original). I saw a newer Haus in Carl's shop (CG Proshop) in Ohio and there were many upgrades from my model. Originally when I purchased my Haus, the documentation and advertisement was bragging about how you could resurface a ball in 30 mins.
Forgot to mention after using the machine, rinse off the diamond blades and scotchbrite pads (burg/grey). This will help promote their life and use.
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder
"El" Presidente of the Legion