Note: if the the T-ROad solid is not modified, it requires more (head & midlane) oil to perform properly than the Vapor Zone. Depending on your ball speed, this could be an unusual situation. That means for normal house shots, the Vapor Zone will under very ordinary circumstances hook more throughout the lane than the T-Road Solid.

The standard finish for the VZ is 220 grit sanding followed by an application of Brunswick's Rough Buff, a rubbing compound. As I see it, you have 2 normal upgrade paths to make it go longer and hook less:
a) add a light amount of polish until you have what you need.
b) sand it with a higher grit, like 400 or 600 grit and then re-add Rough Buff.

On my Brunswick balls I followed the later. Because of the sensitive provided by Activator covers and polishing (too easy to apply too much polish and get an over-reaction), my first step is 400 grit + ROugh Buff, then 600 grit followed by Rough Buff, then 800 etc., with testing at each step along the way.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Worrying is like rocking in a rocking chair: it gives you something to do, but doesn't get you anywhere!"

I would try what charlest said regarding 400 & 600 grit, then rough buff. If you gradually make the surface changes incrementally, you're likely to get a more true read on the lanes.  One time I tried my Vapor with the Brunswick high gloss polish and it went really long, too long for what I was looking for, but maybe not for you?

One other option would be 2000 abralon with zero polish.  Your T-Road Solid should read the lane sooner than the Vapor, and thus be a little more mellow on the back.  The Vapor is a pearl reactive which means longer and more angular at the breakpoint.  The whole reason behind using the rough buff is to make the breakpoint more predictable than with most polishes.  Good luck.




--------------------

Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah