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Author Topic: Scotch Brite  (Read 5097 times)

DGH

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Scotch Brite
« on: September 01, 2004, 03:43:55 AM »
Trying to figure out how to use the pads.Can all colors be used by hand?If so how do you know when you rubbed enough?Is once around the ball sufficient,or is more needed.How do you decide which color to use?
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charlest

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2004, 03:25:39 PM »
Yes, you can do them by hand.
You can tell by looks (from experience) or by throwing the ball and seeing what the change is. The idea when using them by hand is to do a little as possible to change the ball, so that you do not pass the the change you need and wind up making the ball too rough.

YOu use the color that represents the grit that is just barely rougher than the ball is when you start. Safest is the Blue one which is about 1000-1200 grit. Next safest is the light grey which is 800-1000 grit.


7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing  - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand      - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad   - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad,  called Extra Duty Hand      - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad        (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad     - (120-150) 60(?)
Green Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)

3M Chart
Less Aggressive  -------->  More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish     -------->  Point Coarser Finish
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da Shiv

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2004, 04:18:05 PM »
charlest, I think we were all waiting for you in this post.  You must have this set of information programmed for one-touch retrieval.

Shiv
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Listening to the monotonous staccato of rain on my desk top
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charlest

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2004, 04:45:45 PM »
quote:
charlest, I think we were all waiting for you in this post.  You must have this set of information programmed for one-touch retrieval.

Shiv
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Listening to the monotonous staccato of rain on my desk top


Back about 18 or 24 moons ago, I got so tired of re-typing the mess and re-formating it every time, that I stuck it in a file on my PC. Now I just open it and do a cut and paste. If there were a freaking FAQ here, it would be even more readily available to all.

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DGH

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2004, 10:38:04 AM »
Ok thanks for the quick response ,now that I know I can do by hand how do  I know how much to rub the ball?Is once around the ball good or is it rub and then try the ball,rub and try the ball?Never have done this before so bear with me,I don't want to do anything stupid to the ball.I have a X-factor reloaded and a fear factor.The x-factor reloaded is in a dull condition and the fear factor is shined up.
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pearman

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2004, 08:47:41 PM »
Is there a certain direction to scuff the ball?
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icetink

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2004, 09:12:04 PM »
quote:
Is there a certain direction to scuff the ball?


Usually perpendicular to the ball track so the grooves will dig into and better grip the lane.  

http://www.rollrite.co.uk/secrets.php?id=17
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-icetink
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Brickguy221

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2004, 09:12:15 PM »
Scuffing perpendicular to the track will make the ball more aggressive than scuffing with the track.

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charlest

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2004, 09:28:44 PM »
Damn! this sh*t is not simple and direct.

A spinner is THE one and only way to properly surface a bowling ball.

By hand you can only do (PROPERLY) ((do not disregard that word, please!))
a light scuffing of the surface, to, what we call, "crack the surface" of the shell. This allows the ball to grab the lane slightly earlier than the ball does currently.

(A spinner is less than the cost of a medium or a premium priced ball, ONE FREAKING BALL!, and is worth its weight in gold!!)

That is all you can do by hand. You cannot re-surface the entire ball; fo rthat you truly need a spinner. This is exactly why I previously said. Just get a nylon pad which is marginally BELOW OR just AT the surface grit at which the ball is finished.

EXAMPLE: If the ball is finished at 1500 grit polished, get a blue pad (1000 grit) or better yet, silicon carbide sandpaper at 1200 or 1500 grit and LIGHTLY
(Please notice that I capitalized that word to note its importance!) scuff the surface in order to just barely remove the polished surface of the ball.

NOW try the ball; See if its reaction is what you need (NOT want).
If it is good, end process.
If not, then scuff LIGHTLY some more.

Continue cycle, until you get where you need to be.

(If you have not read EVERY word that I wrote, PLEASE read it all.)

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"We get old too fast, and too late, smart."


Edited on 9/2/2004 9:22 PM
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da Shiv

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2004, 10:43:44 PM »
I'm having computer trouble, so this post may be messy, but here goes.  

Here are the ways to tweak the effect of the scuffing, once you have decided the grit that you want.  Placing the ball in the spinner so that the scuff lines are parallel with the first track lines (and therefore closer to perpendicular to the later track lines) makes the effect of the scuffing less dramatic in the heads and mids and causes the ball to bite more in the backend.  

Placing the ball in the spinner so the the scuff lines are parallel with the last track lines (and therefore closer to perpendicular to the early track lines)  makes the effect of the scuffing more dramatic in the heads and mids and less dramatic in the backend.

To maximize the effect of the scuffing on the whole lane, find the bowties on the ball and place each one in turn on top when the ball is in the spinner cup.  This will result in scuff lines that are perpendicular to the track more or less all the time.  This is the most aggressive scuffing pattern.  

Make sure you observe your ball reaction carefully.  It's easy to overdo this stuff and end up with a ball that burns out too early.  You may think that your ball is not hooking like you expected it to, and the real problem may be that is hooking out so early that it has nothing left for the backend and has rolled out well before it gets to the pins.

Shiv
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Listening to the monotonous staccato of rain on my desk top
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DGH

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2004, 03:11:29 PM »
OK -Thanks for all the info,WOW more than I expected.Went to Home Depot to but pads ,they don't sell Scotch Brite pads.Any one know where they may sell?How about Menards?
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JohnP

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2004, 04:25:02 PM »
DGH -- Paint stores, hardware stores, auto supply stores (body work).  Check with your local pro shop, they may have enough extras that they would sell you some.  Or if you want to order over the internet,

http://www.wildoctopusbowling.com/store.asp

If you do go the internet route, shipping charges can run the price per pad up rapidly unless you buy a lot.  --  JohnP

Edited on 9/3/2004 4:19 PM
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Left-Factor

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2004, 04:30:56 PM »
Don't think I've a grocery store yet that doesn't carry at least the green pad.
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Steven

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Re: Scotch Brite
« Reply #13 on: September 03, 2004, 04:50:57 PM »
Yes, the green pad can be found just about anywhere, but I've found the 7448 - Light Grey to be the most useful for all around use.

They're hard to find in the local stores, so I loaded up at wildoctopusbowling.
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