Author Topic: First time scuffing up a ball (Read 1917 times)

SJG · « **on:** September 20, 2006, 03:04:22 AM »

I've had a Strike zone for a little less than a year which has been a great ball for me. It has a nice arc through the oil and is a different look from my Smokin Inferno. Recently though it just doesn't seem to want to move and cover as many boards as it used to. I play pretty straight for the most part, I throw over 7-10 at the arrows out to 5 at the breakpoint. I clean my equiptment every week with Clean n Dull. So I got tired of it not moving and not being able to use it so I went to throw a few practice games the other night and lightly scuffed the ball with a green Scotchbrite pad by hand using a light circular motion. Well it came back to life and seems to grab in the oil like it did out of the box. I had to move left a good 3-5 boards due to the increased reaction.

My questions are as follows.

What procedure do you use for cleaning /scuffing the ball? Clean first then scuff?

Scuff it dry or using water? Again, I don't have a spinner so this is by hand.

How often should I scuff it? Only when I see a loss in reaction or on a regular schedule?

I used the green scotchbrite because I saw Charlest's Scotchbrite Grit chart in another post and it was the closest grit(600) I had to the Strike zones OOB finish(800 wetsand). Was this the correct choice?

I was always very hesitant to use any abrasive on my equiptment before but I was very impressed and happy with the immediate improvement in reaction, so I just want to do it right.

Thanks for any input,
Steve

charlest · « **Reply #1 on:** September 20, 2006, 11:30:02 AM »

While cleaning a ball thoroughly is always the proper thing to do, dull balls will always absorb oil, just at a slower rate. Additionally, rolling the ball on oil eventually puts an "oil shine" on the ball. Both reduce a ball's grabbing ability and thus reduce its overall performance. We don't notice it at first because it's a gradual process.

What you did is good. There is no fixed schedule for doing such because of all the factors involved. A light hand scuffing is probably all you need, IN MOST CASES. "Light" is the operative word. When you see a reduction in hooking ability or hitting power OR you see that light oil shine develop, If I were you, AT HOME, follow the Clean and DUll directions, BUT apply it with the Green nylon pad.

Now for the bad news: your scuffing, at this point in time, is probably only a temporary fix. If you've seen a drop in performance, the ball has absorbed enough oil to affect it. Brunswick recommends an oil extraction process be performed on all their resin and particle balls, anywhere from every 30 to 90 games, in order to keep a ball's performance up to par.

There are several different processes from the Rejuvenator (a heat machine with a thermostat operated by many pro shops, a hot water bath, a dish washing machine cycle with the drier off, Columbia's CPR
(http://www.buddiesproshop.com/products/30-Maintenance_Products/0~99999/6-Columbia_300/All/All/page.htm), Ebonite's Hook Again sytem (also performed by many pro shops.) CHeck the back posts in this forum for some details.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

SJG · « **Reply #2 on:** September 20, 2006, 02:44:13 PM »

Thanks for the info Charlest. I was kinda suprised at the loss of reaction with this ball because I clean all of them once a week. My Smokin Inferno still reacts like new and I have had it a few months longer than the Strike Zone. Like you said, I guess it absorbed the oil faster because of the dull finish. I've done the hot water/simple green bath before with great success, just haven't done it with the Strike Zone yet, guess it's time.

Like I said, this is the first time I have done any kind of surface adjustment to any of my balls and I am very intrigued by it now. I was always afraid I would screw it up or it wouldn't look good and be all scratched up. I like the reaction of my Smokin now but if I ever need to work on it are there any tips for working on a polished pearl ball versus a dull one?

Thanks again,
Steve

jdhaze · « **Reply #3 on:** September 20, 2006, 09:18:10 PM »

I dont have the SZ, but I do have the Smokin and the Scorchin. The Smokin does absorb oil, but much much slower than the Scorchin. One, because the dull surface and two, because you probably use it on heavier volumes of oil. So what your seeing doesnt surprise me. Personally ive used hot water baths on both balls and they work well. I have well over 300 games on my Smokin and that thing still moves nicely on the lane. I also use Neo Tacs Renu-it, which I find cleans the Smokin and keeps the shine up, and clean and dull on the Scorchin with a scothbrite pad.

Good luck!

JD

charlest · « **Reply #4 on:** September 21, 2006, 01:52:49 AM »

quote:
I dont have the SZ, but I do have the Smokin and the Scorchin. The Smokin does absorb oil, but much much slower than the Scorchin. One, because the dull surface and two, because you probably use it on heavier volumes of oil.

BINGO!

quote:

So what your seeing doesnt surprise me. Personally ive used hot water baths on both balls and they work well. I have well over 300 games on my Smokin and that thing still moves nicely on the lane. I also use Neo Tacs Renu-it, which I find cleans the Smokin and keeps the shine up, and clean and dull on the Scorchin with a scothbrite pad.

Good luck!
JD

Be craeful with the Renew-It, because it is also a polish! Personally, I prefer a cleaner to just clean. If a ball needs a polish refresh, then I use polish. Brunswick's polish is different because it just polishes and doesn't change the grit level underneath the shine.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** September 21, 2006, 02:01:53 AM »

quote:
Like I said, this is the first time I have done any kind of surface adjustment to any of my balls and I am very intrigued by it now. I was always afraid I would screw it up or it wouldn't look good and be all scratched up.

You should use a spinner when modifying any surface. Try to practice on old balls, util you get the knack. Don't worry too much about visible scratches (Unless they're deep and/or huge.); all balls have scratches to one degree or another. Pretty is not as important as functionality.

quote:

I like the reaction of my Smokin now but if I ever need to work on it are there any tips for working on a polished pearl ball versus a dull one?

As I mentioned inmy reply to jdhaze, I like my cleaners to only clean and my polishes to only polish. It gives me a sense of control of what's happening to my balls (in all meanings of that sentence ...

).

Balls should be modified in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Brunswick's are pretty clear, as to their suggestions. But you can do almost anything to any ball, AS LONG AS you know how to restore thme to what you (or the manufacturer) had before. (I can go into that in more detail another time, if you like; but message me to remind me, OR you can read some of the past posts in the Brunswick or the Coverstock forums.)

Often times, for pearls in particular, a 2000 grit or a 4000 grit sanding (now easily done with the arrival of Abralon pads) can be substituted for a resin pearl's high polished factory shine. It makes the ball more even reacting, handles carrydown slightly to a lot better (depending on many factors). The ball may hook slightly earlier (especially with the 2000 grit) but is more controllable. This usually needs testing on the bowler's part because, again, of all the factors involved.

quote:

Thanks again,
Steve

Glad that I could help.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Author Topic: First time scuffing up a ball (Read 1917 times)

SJG

First time scuffing up a ball

charlest

Re: First time scuffing up a ball

SJG

Re: First time scuffing up a ball

jdhaze

Re: First time scuffing up a ball

charlest

Re: First time scuffing up a ball

charlest

Re: First time scuffing up a ball