Hi -

Would it be better to highly polish a ball, i.e., 2000 grit, for dry conditions or have it drilled negative weight?

Thanks -

Denny

By negative weight do you mean putting the CG on the track side of your grip center?  Static weights have little to do with ball reaction when dealing with dynamic cores.  Order of importance, after bowler's style and lane conditions, are surface (type and grit), pin position (flare), MB position (assumed on a symmetric ball), then weight holes and static weights.

So, since I have a Slate Blue Gargoyle, highly polished, with the pin 5" from my PAP and above the fingers, and the CG negative, do I have all bases covered?  
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Ron Clifton's Bowling Tip Archive

I'm hot and cold with it.  Something about slick finger holes (this ball, Blue Dot) keep me from releasing it well all of the time.  I tend to grab the ball at the release too often for my liking.  With resin, you'll still get an OK reaction, but with pearl urethane, I just get a dead pull with nothing on it.  The ball itself I like a lot under the right circumstances.  When the lanes are torched, I still prefer resin for my game because the urethane still wants to grab early.  This piece isn't one I want to get inside with and cover a bunch of boards.  Going away from the pocket much really kills carry percentage for me.  But when I can use this ball more down the boards and the backends are dry (making resin too snappy and hard to control), this ball is a great option.  If I could find something tacky to coat the inside of the finger holes with (no inserts, don't want to use rosin constantly and dry my fingers out) I'd probably get a lot more use out of it.  I currently see a lot of dry inconsistent lanes, and this is a great ball that keeps you in play and out of trouble.
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Penn State Proud

Ron Clifton's Bowling Tip Archive