Post by: Brickguy221 on March 05, 2010, 10:16:25 AM
quote:
Here is something that Chris Schlemer told me. Using abralon by hand puts more texture on the surface of a ball versus sanding on the spinner across the ball track.
Now, I think what he said here could very well be. Especially in thinking about my trying to bring a ball (from another manufacturer) back to 2000 grit abralon as it looked when NIB this past week. I had previously polished it lightly and it didn''''''''''''''''t do what I wanted, so I decided to return it to it''''''''''''''''s NIB form.
I sanded it on 4 sides with a 360 Abralon pad to remove polish. I then sanded it on 4 sides (30 seconds each side) with a new 500 Grit Abralon pad, followed by sanding on 4 sides very LIGHTLY (30 seconds each side) with a new 2000 grit Abralon pad. When I finished, the ball looked more like 4000 grit Abralon and not a 2000 Grit abralon factory finish. In fact after the 500 grit Abralon sanding, it looked closer to the original NIB texture than it did after the 2000 grit sanding.
So based on what tburky said Chris Schlemer told him, that plus my recent experience that I just described makes me wonder if using Abralon on the spinner at a specific grit will give the ball the appearance of looking like a higher grit was used because a spinner runs 300-400 RPM and the machines used at the factories turn at approx 25 RPM of which I recall reading somewhere recently.
Not sure if I have explained well enough for everyone to understand what I am trying to say here or not. --------------------
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Edited on 3/6/2010 12:13 PM
Post by: jodyk24 on March 05, 2010, 06:59:43 PM
Brickguy....
That 360 Abralon grit is pretty strong unless you are resurfacing and have to remove some scratches. If I want a ending 2000 grit I will start with maybe a 1000 grit and come up to the 2000. I really don't use 500 or 360 that much anymore. Just a thought.
jodyk24
Post by: Brickguy221 on March 05, 2010, 08:54:58 PM
Remember the post by Roto Grip I believe it was about sanding the ball to 500 grit and then going directly to the finished grit you want? Knock down the peaks and valleys a bit? I don't know if you saw it or not. What I am trying to find out is to see what others opinions are of whether say 2000 grit on a spinner vs 2000 grit by hand or 2000 grit on a haus machine will end up with the same coverstock condition and looks. I don't think it will but could be wrong as I don't have a haus machine to compare.
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Post by: lenstanles703 on March 07, 2010, 08:43:52 AM
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Len
Post by: Thunder835 on March 07, 2010, 05:41:50 PM
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Post by: T C 300 on March 07, 2010, 11:13:25 PM
when i need to dig into the coverstock i go to the spinner....
as far as tryn to match what the factory does, well yeah have fun tryn ppl!!! LOLOL
Edited on 3/8/2010 0:14 AM
Post by: ImBackInTheGame on March 08, 2010, 07:33:24 AM
Post by: icewall on March 08, 2010, 07:45:18 AM
first off a ball never leaves the factory with directional sanding lines.
second the ball tends to shine REALLY fast on a high speed spinner.
I have found that the only way I can personally get my balls to 500/4000 looking just like they do from the factory is to sand with water by hand. (other then taking it to a pro shop with a haus machine)
I only use my spinner for scotchbrite, compounds, or polish. It simply spins too fast for the abrasives on a pad and you very easily use the pad too long or to short of a time and create the wrong finish.
you can argue with me if you would like but the results that me and my friends have seen tell me that by hand has been the only way they have seen their balls react like they did OOB.
I was ready to give up on my rogue cell. anything I did on the spinner made the ball look like I put polish on it... yes, even if I used the 4000 pad for just 10-15 second a side!
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tweener
300 revs
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when you''re feeling blue,
just say to yourself "what would BallBaggins do?"
Edited on 3/8/2010 8:49 AM
Post by: slap on March 08, 2010, 07:57:52 AM
quote:
jody, I had to use the lower grit to get the polish off the ball. I tried 1000 grit first and it didn't do a satisfactory job of removing the polish, so thus the lower grit. Still, even though I finished with 2000 grit after 500 grit and the ball looked like 4000 grit....thus too smooth with a very-very light sheen, so doing 1000 grit and then 2000 grit wouldn't have been any better.
Remember the post by Roto Grip I believe it was about sanding the ball to 500 grit and then going directly to the finished grit you want? Knock down the peaks and valleys a bit? I don't know if you saw it or not. What I am trying to find out is to see what others opinions are of whether say 2000 grit on a spinner vs 2000 grit by hand or 2000 grit on a haus machine will end up with the same coverstock condition and looks. I don't think it will but could be wrong as I don't have a haus machine to compare.
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
That post was from a Storm Tech Rep about the OOB finish on the VG. His instructions were 360 then "light" pressure 500, "light" pressure 4000. Cross hatched.
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"Student of the Game"
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Post by: T C 300 on March 08, 2010, 07:58:59 AM
2000ab by hand vs 2000ab from a spinner = night and day by just lookn at the ball
Post by: ImBackInTheGame on March 08, 2010, 08:13:29 AM
Post by: agroves on March 08, 2010, 08:34:46 AM
http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/downloads/bowling_grit_chart.pdf
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Post by: dizzyfugu on March 08, 2010, 08:41:28 AM
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Post by: lenstanles703 on March 08, 2010, 09:43:56 AM
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Len
Post by: wuznme on March 08, 2010, 02:12:14 PM
Modify the balls before using them to something you can duplicate.
Post by: Brickguy221 on March 08, 2010, 07:27:32 PM
Thanks to the others that contributed here.
As for duplicating the factory finish, I only try to come as close as possible when a NIB ball performed exactly like I wanted OOB which is the case for a ball I recently obtained. I wanted to try it on less oily conditions, so I changed surface and polished lightly and it did exactly what I wanted on that condition. Then I bought another ball for that specific condition, so that I could return the ball to it's original factory cover and I didn't get that exact reaction that it originally had. Thus the reason for my topic here.
I alter a balls surface right out of the box as some of you do if it doesn't do what I want, but in this specific case, the ball out of box was perfect until I changed sanding grit and polished it.
Icewall may have a good point in using the abralon pads by hand with lots of water as I will be the first to admit that a spinner seems really hard on abralon pads no matter how light the pressure used, especially when compared to a haus machine that turns at a way slower speed, thus it's pads last much longer.
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Post by: tburky on April 01, 2010, 08:40:38 PM
Post by: themachine300 on April 01, 2010, 09:00:27 PM
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Post by: ValentinoBowling on April 08, 2010, 02:29:36 AM
To restore OOB you''ll always want to start off the ball by sanding with a 320 grit pad. This will help to remove the "spent" coverstock and open up the oil channels.
After you have sanded the ball with the 320 grit pad, you''ll want to use Resurrection which is our resurfacing paste. Resurrection finishes the surface to 800 matte/sheen which is perfect for heavy oil. This surface matches OOB for heavy oilers.
If the ball is a pearl/polished you''ll want to follow up with Snake Oil, which does not change the underlying grit. The ball will still have the bite of the matte ball, which a nice skid to play medium conditions.
-Kevin
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Edited on 4/8/2010 2:31 AM
Post by: T C 300 on April 08, 2010, 06:28:20 AM
quote:
Replecating the factory finish doesn't mean much to me. I just worry about getting the reaction I want.
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Len
that is called trial and error.......
Post by: EFFEN 10 on April 08, 2010, 06:51:52 PM
quote:
Whenver i get a new ball, I'll always hit it with 500 grit first, then go to whatever grit level I want the ball at. I never throw a ball at the factory oob finish, because u never truely know whats on the ball
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www.bowlingsolutions.com
Bowl to win!!!
Move left, hook it more.....
Tommy Jones and Kenny Simard are Gamecock fans...are you???
X2 And you can always reproduce the finish you did it.
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Post by: azus on April 08, 2010, 06:57:43 PM
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