Author Topic: Blue Hammer clean up ideas (Read 7378 times)

Peep · « **on:** December 11, 2009, 12:27:41 PM »

I'd like to clean up an old Blue Hammer that I found. It has years of dirt and some oxidation on it. It's a Baltimore-made one. I've already soaked it in water and Dawn.
I just want to do something quick and easy to get some more of the grime off it. What do you think of hitting it with 1000 grit sandpaper and then spinning some Power House or Black Magic polish on it? I don't want it to be super shiny when done--just want to get it a bit cleaner.

JohnP · « **Reply #1 on:** December 12, 2009, 09:42:09 AM »

The 1000 grit should clean the ball up, a coarser grit will do it quicker then you could take it up to 1000 grit. The blue color should come back as the layer of grime is removed. I'd try the ball before posishing it to see if you like the reaction. -- JohnP

scotts33 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2009, 09:49:06 AM »

Just an FYI but old Faball urethane covers are harder to work on than most modern equipment. Spinner is paramount IMO.
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Scott

Juggernaut · « **Reply #3 on:** December 12, 2009, 10:10:33 AM »

PEEP,

Actually, the surface on the old hammers was pretty rough (320 grit on the black and red) and they take lower grit surfaces pretty well.

I might hit it with a 500 before taking it to 1000. I think I might even throw it with the 1000 before I added any polish to it. They were pretty strong in their day, and still make great control pieces today.
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dougb · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2009, 10:46:54 AM »

What was the original surface on the blue? 500?

Juggernaut · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2009, 11:36:46 AM »

quote:
What was the original surface on the blue? 500?

I'm not totally sure about the blue, but I THINK it was 320 grit along with the black and red ones.

I bought one NIB years ago, and it came out very dull with quite visible sanding lines in it.
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lenstanles703 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2009, 01:47:46 PM »

I refinished a few of these and I recall them being around 320 grit as well. That is one hard surface too.
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Peep · « **Reply #7 on:** December 16, 2009, 11:56:36 AM »

Thanks everyone for your help. I just got it plugged and redrilled on Sunday so I think I''ll throw a few games with it and see how it reacts before doing more cleaning or refinishing.

Edited on 12/16/2009 12:57 PM

DON DRAPER · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2009, 10:43:45 PM »

bob, i was under the impression that only reactive or particle balls actually absorbed lane oil. so urethane balls absorbed oil as well ?

DougS · « **Reply #9 on:** December 25, 2009, 07:59:27 AM »

To clean a urethane hammer I would give it a resurface starting with 320 sandpaper. Wet sand the ball and if you don't want it this dull finish it at 600. I am not sure you will find the ball useful in a polished state. You can always try it though. After a resurface the ball should be good as new. My burgundy never dies. I have tried about 20 different weak resin drillings before finally realizing that my burgundy is a great option for short and broken down patterns. It won't be a 5th arrow ball for most of us but it works great on difficult patterns.

charlest · « **Reply #10 on:** December 25, 2009, 07:42:54 PM »

quote:
bob, i was under the impression that only reactive or particle balls actually absorbed lane oil. so urethane balls absorbed oil as well ?

Greg,

Until Bob tells you about the Blue itself, all balls absorb oil, as far as I know. I read one techinal article a long while back, probably early 2000s, that said, on average, urethane balls absorb oil at a rate about 1/20th of the rate at which resin balls absorb oil. Being that was before the era of the super oil absorbers, but during the era of particles (which are still resin in the 99% case), the proportion may currently be smaller, maybe 1/33rd or 1/50th because some current resins absorb oil at a ridiculously high rate these days.

So solid dull urethane will still absorb oil and those with the new dynamic cores, hook more for the same reason resins with dynamic cores do, because new clean, dry surfaces are constantly being exposed to the lane oil due to flare. As they absorb oil (but much more slowly) they will also lose performance.

I'd be surprised if lane oil in urethanes would not react to heat in the same way lane oil reacts to heat in resins, by rising to the surface.

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DON DRAPER · « **Reply #11 on:** December 25, 2009, 10:33:40 PM »

charlest, when you say, "all balls absorb oil", are you also referring to rubber and plastic ? or just balls made from types of urethane ?

charlest · « **Reply #12 on:** December 26, 2009, 03:45:51 AM »

quote:
charlest, when you say, "all balls absorb oil", are you also referring to rubber and plastic ? or just balls made from types of urethane ?

Sorry. Just urethane and plastic. There was a ratio for plastic in that article but it was so insignificant, I disregarded it. Since our topic was urethane, that was my main focus.
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Author Topic: Blue Hammer clean up ideas (Read 7378 times)

Peep

Blue Hammer clean up ideas

JohnP

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

scotts33

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Juggernaut

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dougb

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

Juggernaut

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

lenstanles703

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

Peep

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

DON DRAPER

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

DougS

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charlest

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

DON DRAPER

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas

charlest

Re: Blue Hammer clean up ideas