Author Topic: Is there a difference? (Read 5136 times)

willypbowler1 · « **on:** March 28, 2010, 02:45:40 PM »

I was looking to find out if there was a difference when sanding using all in-between grits, as opposed to going the 500-whatever the last grit is...Should you just use the technique the ball company your working with uses. Ex) Storm goes 500-1000-2000-4000 while Hammer, let's use the Jigsaw for example..goes 500-4000...both are considered to be 4000 abralon...whats the difference???
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n00dlejester · « **Reply #1 on:** March 28, 2010, 10:52:21 PM »

I personally have done the same bowling ball up to 4000 abralon using both of these techniques.

Going up the ladder from 500-1000-2000-4000, the bowling ball had a little more backend motion and, for me, was a bit more speed sensitive. Going 500-4000, the ball had a bit more arch in its overall hook, and the ball read the mids a touch earlier.

Overall boards covered was the same, it was just a matter of how angular an entry I wanted into the pocket. And even then, the difference was so slight it's almost negligible. So all in all, I would say unless you are looking for a very specific reaction, either method works about the same, and both work well.
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J_w73 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 28, 2010, 11:38:10 PM »

I agree with the speed sensitive part going in steps from 500, 1000, 2000, 4000...
When I do this I have to lower my speed just a bit for the ball to read the lane and make a move.. but when it does it is more angular and more backend..
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Tondo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 29, 2010, 02:47:45 AM »

Going 500,1000,2000 then 4000 will smooth out the valleys that the 500 created, making the ball alot smoother thus the ball will have more backend. Going 500 to 4000 will knock off the sharp edges of the peaks, but will keep the valleys, thus the ball will read the midlane better.

kidlost2000 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 29, 2010, 04:09:16 AM »

500 grit is rather dull and 4000 grit is like notebook paper.

So wouldn't going 500 then 4000 give you the equivalent of using dull 500 grit or maybe 800 grit?
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dizzyfugu · « **Reply #5 on:** March 29, 2010, 04:45:22 AM »

No. Tondo got it right - they leave very different surface textures. If you move step by step to finer levels, the surface will become very even. As a result, the ball glides more easily through the heads and will be sharper at the breakpoint or when hitting the dry. On a finer level, you achieve the same with rubbing compounds like Rough Buff.
If you use a rough base grit and directly add a fine sanding grit on top, you just shallow out the "hill tops" of the ball surface. The ball will have less bite in the oily front, but be less snappy at the break point than a step-by-step high grit finish.

Think of the ball surface as if it were a car tire, and basically the same "ideas" apply to bowling balls, too.

Anyway, I'd strongly suggest to experiment with different ball finishes, not staying slavishly to OOB surfaces (which are hard to replicate) - you learn a lot about your equipment, and it helps tuning an arsenal!
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J_w73 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 29, 2010, 10:12:10 AM »

quote:
Going 500,1000,2000 then 4000 will smooth out the valleys that the 500 created, making the ball alot smoother thus the ball will have more backend. Going 500 to 4000 will knock off the sharp edges of the peaks, but will keep the valleys, thus the ball will read the midlane better.

+1 .. this is what is going on..

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18 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, 15 deg axis tilt, varied rotational axis deg.. usually 45+
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dballz · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2010, 03:20:19 PM »

500 straight to 4k equals more teeth under surface, thus reading midlane better. doing the process of 500, 1k, 2k, & then 4k, you actually smooth out the lines you have made with the 500, and thus the ball will tend to go longer. i have found this to be true with my surface experiments. i did the 500, 1k, 2k, & 4k on a Black Widow and it almost looked like it was shined up. then i tried the 500 straight to 4k and the sruface looked a lot similar to oob surface of the Black Widow.

basically when you put any surface on the ball, i would document what you did and if you like the reaction, then you will know what to do to duplicate it. just kind of depends on what reaction you are looking for. hope this helps.

Gene J Kanak · « **Reply #8 on:** April 01, 2010, 03:36:52 PM »

Amen to what dizzy had to say. Experimenting with surface is the best way to get a feel for your arsenal and truly begin giving yourself quality lane-play options. Take my Hammer Razyr for example. Out of the box (4000 w/ polish), the ball was great about length, but it was stupid angular off the friction. However, when I took it down to 2000, the ball read early and offered very, very little movement down the lane. At the recommendation of a friend, I tried 500/4000. It was the perfect blend. The 4000 is enough to still give it push, but the 500-grit teeth allow it to give some midlane read and a solid arc on the back. If you haven't already, pick up some abralon pads, and keep them in your bag at all times. Surface is the name of the game when it comes to matching up.

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dizzyfugu · « **Reply #9 on:** April 07, 2010, 07:40:08 AM »

quote:
Surface is the name of the game when it comes to matching up.

...and it is also the easiest and most effective way to change a ball's utility. I'd always encourage surface experiments, esp. when the reaction you get OOB or after some use does not match your desires and needs. And you learn a lot, as Gene mentioned.
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MrPerfect · « **Reply #10 on:** April 07, 2010, 10:40:55 AM »

If you were to do 500/4000 by hand how hard to you push down and how long do you go with the 500 before using the 4000. My only issue is that without water the 4000 pad feels and looks like it doesn't do much, or is that the point?

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #11 on:** April 07, 2010, 10:48:34 AM »

When sanding ALWAYS use water, lots of it. It does not only catch the dust, it keeps the sanding pad clean. Without, I guess you will only have a short span of use with a 4.000 pad, it will immediately clog up.

With pressure, it's subjective thing. From my experience (and what I have learned), using a spinner is best, and do not force the pad with excess pressure. IMHO, the weight of your hand and arm is already enough, and the pressure should be distributed well over the snading surface, not just a single point (which easily occurs when you put too much effort into it). That's also true if you just sand the ball "by hand" (plus lots of water, too).

Rather do less and repeat a sanding step than do too much at one time.
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Author Topic: Is there a difference? (Read 5136 times)

willypbowler1

Is there a difference?

n00dlejester

Re: Is there a difference?

J_w73

Re: Is there a difference?

Tondo

Re: Is there a difference?

kidlost2000

Re: Is there a difference?

dizzyfugu

Re: Is there a difference?

J_w73

Re: Is there a difference?

dballz

Re: Is there a difference?

Gene J Kanak

Re: Is there a difference?

dizzyfugu

Re: Is there a difference?

MrPerfect

Re: Is there a difference?

dizzyfugu

Re: Is there a difference?