A metal file wouldn't even do that much damage. Maybe a wood rasp would.

24-12 grit that's about a wood rasp or like a sanding disk for a floor sander.

Your basically sanding the ball with a handful of gravel.

Back in the days of urethane, I've only seen 1 or 2 balls sanded at 80 grit. The guys that did it only used them for totally flooded lanes, just to strip some oil off.

About the lowest factory grit I saw was a US 220grit.

Anything lower than that was just for when you resurfacing a ball to get rid of scratches etc. not a final surface.

ok, I'm going to step in it for this, but here goes....
 I have two thoughts...

1. You are physically damaging the surface for everyone else who follows.
2. Being candid, and as a lefty who hates the massive floods I see, if the only shot you can bring to a tournament is 12 grit, I'm going to throw the bull shirt flag... There has to be another choice.

for those with a 2 speed spinner do you use 12 grit on low or high? 

12 grit = immediate loss of any credibility.

Quote from: Impending Doom on February 08, 2017, 01:28:46 PM

12 grit = immediate loss of any credibility.

So 4 grit would totally be out of the question? 

At 120 you should just quit. The left side is easy anyways!

At that low of grit the sanding lines are quite noticeable. It was just something I tried a couple of times (the 12 grit I mean) ..but obviously it wasn't effective, which is why I have not done that since.  Actually the past few years I haven't used a ball at those low grits at any tournaments simply because It wasn't necessary.  I have never been against experimenting with different surfaces and drillings.

Brad

Might as well use the point of a bevel knife and turn it on the spinner

That was before I re-drilled one of my midnight scorchers with a 320 hook set drilling..love that ball on oil. It was a progression....the specific group of tournaments I had used that on..typically has 2 different patterns they use.....mainly they use I believe it is a "modified chameleon" pattern..although it always plays like a reverse block for me, and sometimes they use a long heavy flat pattern.  I don't really move further inside on the lane and throw it out to just inside the oob and see it come back into the pocket..I don't generate enough natural recovery with my release for that to be a viable option for me. I do square up and play down and in....However on that particular pattern I couldn't play a straight up the 2nd arrow shot on it like I was doing in league back then...most everything would be too much on the backend and wouldn't hold pocket...balls like my lane #1 bullet, that I use for a spare ball, would hold pocket playing that 2nd arrow line but wouldn't finish. However I did find success with my midnight scorchers playing in the heavier OOB oil...at some tournaments or days of the same tournament the outside oil was heavier than other times , but for most people unplayable.....I kept going down in grit with one trying to see if I could get the ball to exit the oob without having to "baby" it..eventually I tried a 12 grit pad--it wasn't sandpaper, I found 12 grit pads online(fairly flexible, but not as much so as abralon & such) ...and at that grit with just a normal pin just outside of the ring finger drilling I could play straight up the oob and the ball would exit the oil but would roll out soo quickly that I would squarely hit the 2-4..was hoping before I threw shots with it that it would not only exit the oil , but make it to the 1-3 pocket. Didn't happen so I abandoned that experiment.

I really do like the 320 degree hook set drilling I found online a couple years ago..because I can get a violent move in the oil or oil handling if you will similar to how I would with the lower grits I used with the old drilling , but without having to go soo quite so rough in grits.

Brad