I have a 13# Hammer Blade Solid which was polished over it's 800 grit factory finish.

Overall the ball is working quite well but I feel I could use just a little more length.  I've had other posts regarding this ball and I've been told to bring the surface up to between 1000-1500 then polish.

How much of a difference can I expect at the 1000, 1200 and 1500 sanded then polished levels.  I bowl on synthetics with medium to sometimes heavy oil.
The backends are usually not totally stripped clean and I also encounter carrydown.

I don't want to go to far as I'm afraid the ball might go too long and not recover.

So, give me an idea as to which would be the best choice to try compared to the 800 polished state that I'm using now.  How much of a difference will each level make.

I've never experimented with polish before.  I've changed the surface on dull balls using 600, 800 and 1000.  Differences were quite significant for me.
Is this because of my slower speed?  That's why I'm afraid of going too far.

I would appreciate any input.
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LadyW....(aka Wannabe)

Lady--The isn't really a right answer to this question.  The best thing to do is polish it some, throw it, then decide if you want more.  If you do repeat the process.  I usually go through this with new equipment.  I always change the surface a couple of times to see what I like best.  It is extremely easy to change the surface back.  If you put too much polish on it, resand and polish it to level you want.

The levels are like this.

800-900 light shine
1500 shiny
2000 little more
5000 mirror shine
finesse it-death-break out the razor its that shiny

The best answer is trial and error.

Good luck,
andrew
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FUFU
"Act like you've been there before"

Edited on 3/6/2004 2:08 PM

Lady--The simple answer is if you want to delay hook add another coat.  You should be able to find a reaction you will like.  IF you don't scuff the cover with a green scotchbrite at home and that will take some of the shine off.  Then you can do it all again.

Since you have factory finish polish, you would not be going in grit increments.  I would just continue to add another coat.  Remember the shinier the ball the more length it should get.

Andrew
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FUFU
"Act like you've been there before"

LW - Before you just look at polishing up the equipment more you may want to further assess what the ball may be doing.

If you start off and like the reaction of the ball and then can't get the ball to go long enough your line may be drying out and you will have to chase the oil line.  Polishing the ball will get you more length but if you catch the dry too soon it will jump hard or squirt on spotty conditions.

Just a thought.

You talk about carry down.  If you experience carrydown and you polish your equipment you may not be able to get the ball back with enough bite to drive the pocket.
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Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

LW - What you may be asking for may not be possible with just a coverstock chnage.  It may also require a change of hand position to change the axis tilt and rotation.  It may also be the drill patern on the ball.


--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

LW - Changing hand position is something that is very subtle and often times it is a matter of rotating the wrist 15-20 degrees.

Good luck
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com