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Author Topic: OIL EXTRACTION  (Read 10769 times)

BXTECH

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OIL EXTRACTION
« on: August 08, 2008, 03:29:50 AM »
What is the process for the hot water bath to take the oil out?
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charlest

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #16 on: August 09, 2008, 11:10:25 PM »
quote:
At this country.A residental water heater will produce hot water at a max of 210 degrees,I think I might have the edge on that topic since I've been a plumbing contractor for the past 21 yrs.
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Maybe that's at/in the water heater, but by the time it gets through all the pipes and out the faucet, it must be quite a bit lower. After all, 100 deg Centigrade, 212 degrees Fahrenheit is boiling water. 210 is not a lot lower. Human skin is kind of sensitive to boiling water, no?
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DON DRAPER

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #17 on: August 09, 2008, 11:18:26 PM »
i've done a little research on my own and in the metro kansas city area i've come across at least 6-7 pro shops that have a rejuvenator or revivor. they're more common than you think but i will admit that most mom and pop bowling centers/pro shops out in the middle of nowhere don't have one.

i watched the video of the revivor from innovative bowling products and they say that the amount of electricity used to extract the oil out of a ball is about 25 cents worth. if you charge $15-20 for the service it is the biggest profit maker in the pro shop.
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Moon57

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #18 on: August 10, 2008, 06:49:37 AM »
uv2C10falll, I been an industrial journeyman plumber for 24 years. It's true the water is very hot right at the heat source but the out going temp from the tank is nowhere near 210. Just a suggestion, if you don't want to get sued someday for somebody getting scalded, it would be a good idea to check the water temp at the faucet with either a thermometer or temp gun after you install a new heater. I wouldn't have the temp anymore than 130. With that being said, 130 will not harm a bowling ball.
  Greg, isn't 15 to 20 a little steep for oil extraction? Before I started using the water bath I paid 10 in my area.
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leftyinsnellville

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #19 on: August 10, 2008, 08:51:19 AM »
I pop in on these "oil extraction" forums saying the same thing.  You don't need a rejuvinator if you own a dishwasher.  I've used both and can't tell the difference between the results.

Just throw your balls in the bottom rack with the holes facing toward the side and slightly down (so water doesn't spray directly into the holes and water doesn't collect in them either), turn off the dry function, and run the dishwasher (don't use detergent!).  You can do a hairdryer test after the ball cools to see how much oil is left.  If there's too much, run the ball through again.

Cheap and effective.
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Edited on 8/10/2008 8:53 AM
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Oldskool2

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #20 on: August 10, 2008, 09:06:00 AM »
The problem with a dishwasher is that it doesn't keep the temperature at a constant level.

Hot washing is followed by cold rinsing and then hot drying again.

Even if you turn of the dryer, temperatures are not constant.
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Lillen

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #21 on: August 10, 2008, 09:25:32 AM »
quote:
Hot washing is followed by cold rinsing and then hot drying again


Not the one I have...

My one doesn't have the cold rinsing and hot drying thing...
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leftyinsnellville

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #22 on: August 10, 2008, 09:28:26 AM »
quote:
quote:
Hot washing is followed by cold rinsing and then hot drying again


Not the one I have...

My one doesn't have the cold rinsing and hot drying thing...
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I've never seen a diswasher that has a cold rinse cycle.
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Moon57

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #23 on: August 10, 2008, 09:33:14 AM »
Cold rinse could be an energy saving feature.
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DON DRAPER

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #24 on: August 10, 2008, 12:15:46 PM »
the $15-20 charge is only an example. a pro shop can charge what their market will bear. i only pay $10 and the process couldn't be easier. i drop the ball off and go run some errands and came back and get the ball. no fuss, no mess.

Edited on 8/10/2008 12:16 PM
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Oldskool2

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #25 on: August 10, 2008, 12:42:45 PM »
The program on our dishwasher is like this:

1 Washing at the desired temp. (35-70 degrees Celsius)

2 Cold washing.

3 Hot Washing.

5 Drying.

The hot washing goes way over the temp that's "healthy" for a bowlingball and the same for the drying.

The changes in temperature are to big to use it for a bowlingball.

Edited on 8/10/2008 4:40 PM
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rvmark

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #26 on: August 11, 2008, 08:55:01 AM »
My wifes Gamebreaker was bleeding oil after sitting for 45 minutes in the trunk on the way to the bowling alley.  We were getting a new Special Agent drilled up for her so I let the pro shop put it in the Revivor oven.  $20 dollars plus tax, in the future I will use the hot water bath method that I use on my on  balls, it is convenient to leave with the proshop but you pay for that convenience.  I am not bashing my proshop as they have drilled all my balls for the last 4 years since I got into bowling and really enjoy working with them.  

I understand that a Revivor oven runs around $1,550 and they need to see a return on investment, I am evidentally tight enough that I am willing to take the time and do the hot water bath method of oil extraction.

Mark
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Lefty_bowler

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #27 on: August 11, 2008, 12:02:54 PM »
I have used my dishwasher many of times on numerous balls and have never had any problems.  I keep mine set on heavy pots and pans cycle with hot water, followed by two rinse cycles, and a heat dry.  I also use a small amount of cascade soap.  One piece of advice, take out any tape you have in the ball.  I forgot to once and had to run through the process to get the tape residue off.
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JohnP

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #28 on: August 11, 2008, 07:03:57 PM »
You should turn the heated dry option off, the temp can get too high for the coverstock.  You're lucky you haven't damaged your equipment.  --  JohnP
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qstick777

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2008, 04:15:20 PM »
quote:
At this country.A residental water heater will produce hot water at a max of 210 degrees,I think I might have the edge on that topic since I've been a plumbing contractor for the past 21 yrs.
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210?  Never seen it.  I don't believe I've ever seen a modern water heater with a setting over 140, and nothing over 160 on older models.  I would think something with the potential to heat as high as 210 would open up the companies to a large amount of lawsuits due to scaldings.

Edit:  I take that back.  I found a tankless water heater with a setting up to 180 - Rheem GT models: http://www.rheemtankless.com/content/tankless/rheem/faq.shtml


http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13090

 
quote:
You can reduce your water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on your water heater. For each 10ºF reduction in water temperature, you can save between 3%–5% in energy costs.

Although some manufacturers set water heater thermostats at 140ºF, most households usually only require them set at 120ºF. Water heated at 140ºF also poses a safety hazard—scalding. However, if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, it may require a water temperature within a range of 130ºF to 140ºF for optimum cleaning.

 




Maybe you are talking about water heaters that are part of a boiler system?

 
quote:
For older houses where the water heater is part of the space heating boiler, and plumbing codes allow, some plumbers will install a "Watts 210" device in place of a TPR valve. When the device senses that the temperature reaches 99 °C (210 °F), it will shut off the gas supply and prevent further heating. In addition, an expansion tank or exterior pressure relief valve must be installed to prevent pressure buildup in the plumbing from rupturing pipes, valves, or the water heater.

 


Heck, at 140, for a child it only takes 6 seconds to cause a bad burn!




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Edited on 8/22/2008 4:18 PM
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charlest

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Re: OIL EXTRACTION
« Reply #30 on: August 22, 2008, 07:11:47 PM »
Thanks, qstick, for that ton of info (no sarcasm intended).
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