Post by: BXTECH on August 08, 2008, 03:29:50 AM
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DEFEAT is only MOMENTARY!!!!!!
I have no special talent, only passionately curious!
Post by: charlest on August 08, 2008, 02:51:34 PM
1. Sand ball to about 320 grit to open up the pores.
2. Fill bucket with hot water about half way put ball in fill up rest of the way to cover ball add a few drops of Dawn or other dish washing soap.
3. After the waters cools to luke warm (maybe 15 - 20 minutes), remove and wipe off water, soap and oil.
4. repeat 2 - 3 times.
(The amount of repetition depends on how oil soaked it is. You should be able to see the oil sitting on the ball or in the water. When there's no more coming out, stop. Use common sense. The hotness of the water is bringing the oil to the surface the soap is breaking it down and preventing oil re-absorption, in theory. When the water is less hot, it's not bringing oil to the surface.)
5. Fill with hot water only and ball. wipe off.
6. Let holes dry. I usually wait 24 - 48 hours.
7. Re-finish surface to desired finish.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Post by: golfnutFL on August 08, 2008, 03:27:41 PM
quote:
0. Make sure the temperature of the hot water from your tap is NOT above 150 degrees Fahrenheit!
1. Sand ball to about 320 grit to open up the pores.
2. Fill bucket with hot water about half way put ball in fill up rest of the way to cover ball add a few drops of Dawn or other dish washing soap.
3. After the waters cools to luke warm (maybe 15 - 20 minutes), remove and wipe off water, soap and oil.
4. repeat 2 - 3 times.
(The amount of repetition depends on how oil soaked it is. You should be able to see the oil sitting on the ball or in the water. When there's no more coming out, stop. Use common sense. The hotness of the water is bringing the oil to the surface the soap is breaking it down and preventing oil re-absorption, in theory. When the water is less hot, it's not bringing oil to the surface.)
5. Fill with hot water only and ball. wipe off.
6. Let holes dry. I usually wait 24 - 48 hours.
7. Re-finish surface to desired finish.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Don't argue with an idiot people watching may not be able to tell the difference.
Post by: Kid Jete on August 08, 2008, 03:34:12 PM
Post by: Grayson on August 08, 2008, 03:46:38 PM
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Sebastian Koch
"Have fun and bowl well!" - Grayson
"Some things are made so even idiots won't fail using them.... But I ask what about the genius?" - Grayson
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Post by: rookrc on August 08, 2008, 03:49:46 PM
Post by: charlest on August 08, 2008, 03:58:32 PM
quote:
You should take it down in steps also.
I don't see any reason to do that. I take it to 320 using wet/dry sandpaper or a maroon nylon pad.
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Post by: Mike L on August 08, 2008, 04:50:08 PM
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"Typical House Bowler"
Post by: charlest on August 08, 2008, 06:44:41 PM
quote:
just wondering, do you put tape over the fingers and thumb to keep the water sumwhat out? i had a customer come in and had to reglue all of his inserts because the heat from the water made the glue come undone and he said he didn't cover his holes up
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"Typical House Bowler"
I have never covered any hole with anything. I have yet to have any problems with the inserts or the core/cover integrity.
I have yet to have the glued finger inserts come loose. I use Loctite Gel Control Super-glue, Loctite Control Super Glue, and had used Griploc Cyanoacrylate Superglue on my finger inserts. Hot water, as far as I know, will not melt/dissolve any cyanoacrylate based glue. Only Acetone or special debonders will dissolve it
So I'd ask what glue did he use?
and I'd ask how hot was the water he used?
If he does not know the answer to both questions, tell him very politely what an {expletive deleted} he is for not knowing, reglue his inserts with a good proper glue and tell him not to do that again.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Edited on 8/8/2008 6:45 PM
Post by: DON DRAPER on August 09, 2008, 06:51:13 PM
Post by: charlest on August 09, 2008, 08:29:24 PM
quote:
i'm glad that our readers are trying to extract lane oil from their high performance equipment. it will pay off with better ball reaction for a longer period of time. however, i feel the regular use of a rejuvenator or revivor will show better results and be easier.
But, Greg, these are expensive machines that few pro shops have. When you can't find them, you need to find good, useful alternatives.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Post by: on August 09, 2008, 08:58:02 PM
If you do your own maintenance then you can look at less expensive alternatives since you will not do the volume of balls to see a profitable return, unless you put a dollar figure on your own labor time.
That's one of the beauties of the Revivor, turn it on, occasionally check the balls, while you stay busy with other things. Even a dummy like me can multi-task around the shop with a Revivor.
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Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
Edited on 8/9/2008 8:58 PM
Post by: luv2C10falll on August 09, 2008, 09:14:59 PM
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"I hate losing more than I love winning"
Post by: charlest on August 09, 2008, 09:19:39 PM
quote:
Be careful water heaters at very hot,are about 210 degrees
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"I hate losing more than I love winning"
In what country?
Most water heaters keep water in the 140 - 160 degree Fahrenheit range in the US. If they were kept at 210 degrees, there'd be a lot more cases of 3rd degree burns from hot water in our emergency rooms.
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Post by: luv2C10falll on August 09, 2008, 09:39:38 PM
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"I hate losing more than I love winning"
Post by: charlest on August 09, 2008, 11:10:25 PM
quote:
At this country.A residental water heater will produce hot water at a max of 210 degrees,I think I might have the edge on that topic since I've been a plumbing contractor for the past 21 yrs.
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"I hate losing more than I love winning"
Maybe that's at/in the water heater, but by the time it gets through all the pipes and out the faucet, it must be quite a bit lower. After all, 100 deg Centigrade, 212 degrees Fahrenheit is boiling water. 210 is not a lot lower. Human skin is kind of sensitive to boiling water, no?
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Post by: DON DRAPER on August 09, 2008, 11:18:26 PM
i watched the video of the revivor from innovative bowling products and they say that the amount of electricity used to extract the oil out of a ball is about 25 cents worth. if you charge $15-20 for the service it is the biggest profit maker in the pro shop.
Post by: Moon57 on August 10, 2008, 06:49:37 AM
Greg, isn't 15 to 20 a little steep for oil extraction? Before I started using the water bath I paid 10 in my area.
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Moon
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So many questions, so little time but I'm having fun.
Post by: leftyinsnellville on August 10, 2008, 08:51:19 AM
Just throw your balls in the bottom rack with the holes facing toward the side and slightly down (so water doesn't spray directly into the holes and water doesn't collect in them either), turn off the dry function, and run the dishwasher (don't use detergent!). You can do a hairdryer test after the ball cools to see how much oil is left. If there's too much, run the ball through again.
Cheap and effective.
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220...221...whatever it takes
Edited on 8/10/2008 8:53 AM
Post by: Oldskool2 on August 10, 2008, 09:06:00 AM
Hot washing is followed by cold rinsing and then hot drying again.
Even if you turn of the dryer, temperatures are not constant.
Post by: Lillen on August 10, 2008, 09:25:32 AM
quote:
Hot washing is followed by cold rinsing and then hot drying again
Not the one I have...
My one doesn't have the cold rinsing and hot drying thing...
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www.eko-bowling.se
www.teamtuba.se
www.dteracing.se
Post by: leftyinsnellville on August 10, 2008, 09:28:26 AM
quote:quote:
Hot washing is followed by cold rinsing and then hot drying again
Not the one I have...
My one doesn't have the cold rinsing and hot drying thing...
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www.eko-bowling.se
www.teamtuba.se
www.dteracing.se
I've never seen a diswasher that has a cold rinse cycle.
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220...221...whatever it takes.
Post by: Moon57 on August 10, 2008, 09:33:14 AM
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Moon
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So many questions, so little time but I'm having fun.
Post by: DON DRAPER on August 10, 2008, 12:15:46 PM
Edited on 8/10/2008 12:16 PM
Post by: Oldskool2 on August 10, 2008, 12:42:45 PM
1 Washing at the desired temp. (35-70 degrees Celsius)
2 Cold washing.
3 Hot Washing.
5 Drying.
The hot washing goes way over the temp that's "healthy" for a bowlingball and the same for the drying.
The changes in temperature are to big to use it for a bowlingball.
Edited on 8/10/2008 4:40 PM
Post by: rvmark on August 11, 2008, 08:55:01 AM
I understand that a Revivor oven runs around $1,550 and they need to see a return on investment, I am evidentally tight enough that I am willing to take the time and do the hot water bath method of oil extraction.
Mark
Post by: Lefty_bowler on August 11, 2008, 12:02:54 PM
Post by: JohnP on August 11, 2008, 07:03:57 PM
Post by: qstick777 on August 22, 2008, 04:15:20 PM
quote:
At this country.A residental water heater will produce hot water at a max of 210 degrees,I think I might have the edge on that topic since I've been a plumbing contractor for the past 21 yrs.
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"I hate losing more than I love winning"
210? Never seen it. I don't believe I've ever seen a modern water heater with a setting over 140, and nothing over 160 on older models. I would think something with the potential to heat as high as 210 would open up the companies to a large amount of lawsuits due to scaldings.
Edit: I take that back. I found a tankless water heater with a setting up to 180 - Rheem GT models: http://www.rheemtankless.com/content/tankless/rheem/faq.shtml
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13090
quote:
You can reduce your water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on your water heater. For each 10ºF reduction in water temperature, you can save between 3%–5% in energy costs.
Although some manufacturers set water heater thermostats at 140ºF, most households usually only require them set at 120ºF. Water heated at 140ºF also poses a safety hazard—scalding. However, if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, it may require a water temperature within a range of 130ºF to 140ºF for optimum cleaning.
Maybe you are talking about water heaters that are part of a boiler system?
quote:
For older houses where the water heater is part of the space heating boiler, and plumbing codes allow, some plumbers will install a "Watts 210" device in place of a TPR valve. When the device senses that the temperature reaches 99 °C (210 °F), it will shut off the gas supply and prevent further heating. In addition, an expansion tank or exterior pressure relief valve must be installed to prevent pressure buildup in the plumbing from rupturing pipes, valves, or the water heater.
Heck, at 140, for a child it only takes 6 seconds to cause a bad burn! (http://"http://www.med.umich.edu/1libr/pa/pa_hotwatr_hhg.htm")
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Edited on 8/22/2008 4:18 PM
Post by: charlest on August 22, 2008, 07:11:47 PM
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Post by: Skizriz on August 23, 2008, 09:04:41 AM
quote:
OMG. It ain't rocket science. Bucket. Hot tap water. Ball in bucket. Leave for 15 minutes or longer. Repeat if necessary. Don't have to take surface down. Don't have to cover holes. Simple.
K.I.S.S.
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"I want to die in my sleep like my grandfather....Not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his car"
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Roto Grip Saturn
(now retired)Roto Grip Spare Tire
Post by: Jay on August 26, 2008, 02:36:25 AM
Also, I've heard that it's bad to leave your ball out in hot and cold temperatures. I understand why not the cold more than the hot. I've been told a ball shouldn't be exposed to direct heat but I'm not sure of the difference between that and hot water, as long as it's under the safe temperature of 150 degrees. I'd personally rather use an oven but people say don't.
Post by: Grayson on August 26, 2008, 02:57:47 AM
quote:
Is it pointless or even harmful to use the hot water bath method without dish soap? Since it prevents re-absorption it seems like a must.
Also, I've heard that it's bad to leave your ball out in hot and cold temperatures. I understand why not the cold more than the hot. I've been told a ball shouldn't be exposed to direct heat but I'm not sure of the difference between that and hot water, as long as it's under the safe temperature of 150 degrees. I'd personally rather use an oven but people say don't.
#1: soap/dish detergent binds oil in the water giving the water the ability to absorb more oil... but the real advantage is that with the soap the oil actually is "pulled" off the sruface of the ball. Without it might just come out on the surface and stay there... some will go up but the main oil will stay/sit in the ball
IT is a matter of taste imho... I use soap.
#2 the problem are sudden differences in temperature or punctuall temperature differences on the ball... those create tension in the ball and tension/stress leads to cracking.... simple as can be.
That's why most companies advise to keep the ball at constant "normal" temperature
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Sebastian Koch
"Have fun and bowl well!" - Grayson
"Some things are made so even idiots won't fail using them.... But I ask what about the genius?" - Grayson
(\_/)
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c(')(')
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Post by: Jay on August 26, 2008, 03:47:17 AM
I've always been paranoid about any type of oil extraction method, so 've just stuck with cleaning the surface to get rid of dirt and oil from there. The reason for that is because in the past, balls that I've used the hot water method on seemed to lack performance. Although, that could have been the layout of some of those balls in general, as they weren't great to begin with anyways, and the fact that they were Ebonite balls. Only one of them actually lost performance after time, and now I'm trying the hot water method again, this time with soap to see if it helps any.
Post by: JohnP on August 26, 2008, 10:00:17 AM