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Author Topic: sanding pearl reactive's?  (Read 10386 times)

Jish

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sanding pearl reactive's?
« on: September 28, 2005, 10:36:11 PM »
Do any of you throw your pearl reactives with a sanded coverstock? I remember a while ago there was a saying that you don't sand pearl reactives as they were designed to be in a polished state until I attended a track seminar with Del Warren and he said why not sand a pearl reative? Lattely at my local center the pattern they have been putting down and a need to change my bowling style to one that put's less strain on my wrist my polished equiptment just doesen't give me the reaction I am looking for and I only have one ball with a sanded finish. I you do use your pearl reactives in a sanded state what have your result's been? Trying to avoid having to go out and buy new equiptment. Thanks.
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dizzyfugu

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Re: sanding pearl reactive's?
« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2005, 07:03:37 AM »
I have a sanded (800 grit) TPC Player, and it works pretty well: grabs very good in the oil, smooth arcing motion (see my review). And when the lane breaks down and dries up I think the pearl Trimax coverstock gets it better through the heads than a similar solid ball. Does not look THAT flashy, but it works fine.

I'd always recommend taking the glaze off of a ball when the ball reaction is too erratic - just taking a high grit pad (1.500 grit) and giving a sheen surface might be enough to make the reaction much smoother and controllable, also for solid balls. Lower grits can be applied if you need more/earlier traction in oil, I'd suggest experimenting with ever coarser grits, step by step.
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Edited on 9/29/2005 6:57 AM
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DukeHarding

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Re: sanding pearl reactive's?
« Reply #2 on: September 29, 2005, 10:09:06 AM »
quote:
Do any of you throw your pearl reactives with a sanded coverstock? I remember a while ago there was a saying that you don't sand pearl reactives as they were designed to be in a polished state until I attended a track seminar with Del Warren and he said why not sand a pearl reative? Lattely at my local center the pattern they have been putting down and a need to change my bowling style to one that put's less strain on my wrist my polished equiptment just doesen't give me the reaction I am looking for and I only have one ball with a sanded finish. I you do use your pearl reactives in a sanded state what have your result's been? Trying to avoid having to go out and buy new equiptment. Thanks.


Why not scuff it lightly (at first) with a Creen Scotchbrite?
Add a little scuff at a time until you get the reaction you want.
Scuff the whole ball, not just the track area (to stay legal).
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MillWorker

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Re: sanding pearl reactive's?
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2005, 09:21:54 AM »
Call it "breaking" the coverstock. Based on all the seminars I've attended, I think if you polled the manufacturer reps they would say you should adjust the coverstock as appropriate to match up the athlete with the lane pattern.
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Ramtart

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Re: sanding pearl reactive's?
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2005, 09:33:07 AM »
Great post. I did this with my Storm Eraser Pearl Reactive (the original release), back in 2001. I hit it with a green scotchbrite pad and it did wonders with the ball when it was squirty. The result was more read on the lane and less O/U on oilier conditions. Hope this helps!

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Rip Ram Winkle
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Gene J Kanak

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Re: sanding pearl reactive's?
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2005, 11:02:56 AM »
A guy I bowl with sanded down his Inferno and an Au79 and the reaction he gets with bowl is very readable and strong. I never really thought about doing this until I saw the nice, even reaction he gets. It's certainly worth looking into.
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