Post by: agroves on February 06, 2008, 05:28:06 PM
It seemed like I was able to duplicate the OOB reaction that I was looking for. I tried sanding to 2000 then polishing, but it went much further down lane that the OOB condition.
I got the idea from a buddy, who said some ball rep at a High roller told him to try it.
Thoughts?
Andrew
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FUFU
Post by: vilecanards on February 07, 2008, 01:29:39 AM
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r.k.wolfe
Post by: mw11x300 on February 07, 2008, 07:39:53 AM
Post by: dizzyfugu on February 07, 2008, 07:46:22 AM
But since I got hold on 2.000 grit Abralon pads, I prefer these as a base, e .g. on my Sahara, Renegade or Reaction Rip. The result is a very nice and durable finish. I sand the ball from 4 sides, and then apply polish from 4 sides on my spinner. Very good length, and (what is more important for me) good lane contact at the break point. Haven't tried 4.000 plus polish yet on a reactive (only on my polyester ball), since I did not feel the need so far in my arsenal, but I am sure this will work well, too, and improve length through the heads even a bit further.
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Post by: star on February 07, 2008, 08:00:56 AM
Dizzy, I think he means he uses the Abralon to polish the ball not just as a base sanding.
I love the feel of the ball and you get an awesome reaction too, well I seem to with it. I put this up ages ago when someone asked how to get that silky feel that you get on NIB balls.
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Edited on 2/7/2008 9:02 AM
Post by: dizzyfugu on February 07, 2008, 09:25:49 AM
quote:
Dizzy, I think he means he uses the Abralon to polish the ball not just as a base sanding.
Uh, if that's the case sorry for the misunderstanding! Hmmm, in this case, I would not recommend it. You need some soft cloth to apply polish well, and even a 4.000 grit pad would IMHO be too rough to achieve a good result. I'd say, you effectively ruin any polish you might apply, and still end up with a 4.000 Abralon surface.
I understood that Andrew just witnessed the reaction differences between basic grits before applying polish - and this is something I can confirm and recommend to experiment with, just to optimize the arsenal for the personal style and needs.
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Post by: charlest on February 07, 2008, 02:00:42 PM
If you're applying the polish with a 2000 grit pad to get a 2000 grit polished appearance, what grit is the ball before you apply this? 1000? 1500 ?
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Post by: vilecanards on February 07, 2008, 02:03:07 PM
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r.k.wolfe
Post by: agroves on February 08, 2008, 12:26:21 AM
quote:
My only caution is that it sounds like it would be hard to duplicate the exact (or close) finish, time after time. You can't used a used pad, because you don't really know its grit level; so you always have to use a fresh one. Then, can you take the polish off this pad or remove it? If not, what do you do with this pad, now?
If you're applying the polish with a 2000 grit pad to get a 2000 grit polished appearance, what grit is the ball before you apply this? 1000? 1500 ?
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You think too much! I think you can reuse the same pad a few times. To think that I'm good enough to tell the difference between a once used 2000 grit pad with polish and a 4th time used pad is ridiculous.
Andrew
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FUFU
Post by: charlest on February 08, 2008, 05:51:02 AM
quote:quote:
My only caution is that it sounds like it would be hard to duplicate the exact (or close) finish, time after time. You can't used a used pad, because you don't really know its grit level; so you always have to use a fresh one. Then, can you take the polish off this pad or remove it? If not, what do you do with this pad, now?
If you're applying the polish with a 2000 grit pad to get a 2000 grit polished appearance, what grit is the ball before you apply this? 1000? 1500 ?
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You think too much! I think you can reuse the same pad a few times. To think that I'm good enough to tell the difference between a once used 2000 grit pad with polish and a 4th time used pad is ridiculous.
Andrew
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FUFU
sorry ....
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Post by: agroves on February 08, 2008, 06:23:00 AM
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FUFU
Post by: charlest on February 08, 2008, 09:50:58 AM
quote:
^^^^^^^^^ this is who I was waiting to hear from^^^^^^^^^
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r.k.wolfe
I'm not saying it's good or bad. I have never tried it myself. I understand why it was tried and if it works for them, I will not doubt their word. I don't work that way. If I gave that impression, I apologize. Andrew and dizzy know what they are doing; they are experienced.
Those were my concerns, IF I WERE TO TRY IT. As things are for me, I'm fine with doing sanding and polishing the less hurried way, the way I have done it in the past.
There are valid alternatives to every process.
I have heard of many people using the White nylon pad for several purposes BECAUSE it is virtually a NON-abrasive.
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Post by: onlybowling on February 09, 2008, 06:28:36 AM
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OnlyBowling
Post by: Brickguy221 on February 10, 2008, 11:03:56 AM
quote:
I have heard of many people using the White nylon pad for several purposes BECAUSE it is virtually a NON-abrasive.
Trim Man, I will have to agree with Charlest here as I find the Scotch-Brite White Nylon Pads to be virtually NON-abrasive.
Is it possible the white ones from Speciality Tools are not Scotch-Brite and maybe another brand that could possible be a wee bit abrasive?
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Post by: Brickguy221 on February 10, 2008, 01:50:16 PM
quote:
Also tell me where charlest says scotch brite in his post, Star does but not charlest.
I never said Charlest said it..... but I said it. When I sand a ball with 1000 Grit Abralon, it sands it, but when I sand a ball with a White SCOTCHBRITE Pad, it does nothing to the ball. The White Scotchbrite pads are so harmless that I use them with Clean and Dull to clean my pearl balls and polished reactive balls and it doesn't change the surface a bit.
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Post by: charlest on February 10, 2008, 02:51:43 PM
quote:quote:
I have heard of many people using the White nylon pad for several purposes BECAUSE it is virtually a NON-abrasive.
Actually charlest I disagree, I bought some of these just to try them out so I could get something between 1000 and 2000 abralon. http://www.specialtytools.com/product_info.php?products_id=5235Seems to be the ticket, by the sheen I see on the ball. Shinier than 1000 but not the 2000.
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Visionary Test Staff Member
I did say, "virtually".
I have stopped several spinners before I got a white pad to bite into a bowling ball coverstock. I really don't want to do that. I have blue nylon pads that take some pressure and I can get betetr results, easier with them.If you got some results, all well and good. More power to you. I have personally found them not useful to me. YMMV.
Trimman wrote:
quote:
Brick it is possible, but I doubt it. I have both, feels the same to me. BTW they are located in Jax. Is it possible I could have gone there too? Neat place. Remember I'm trim carpenter by trade.
I have tried the white pad as finishing medium for appyling varnish/urethane on some small wood projects. works in the general manner of 0000 wool. I suppose its safer when using water-based finishes because there's no steel to rust.
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Edited on 2/10/2008 3:54 PM
Post by: charlest on February 10, 2008, 02:57:32 PM
quote:
Also tell me where charlest says scotch brite in his post, Star does but not charlest.
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Visionary Test Staff Member
For reference sake, I always mean Scotch-Brite, when I say nylon pad. I just can't be bothered writing it out every time (very bad typist). Maybe I should just put "SB" before the words "nylon pad" in the future. I only use one non-3M nylon pad and I never reference it here on ballreviews.
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Post by: onlybowling on February 10, 2008, 06:42:37 PM
It seems to me that the best chance for the home refinisher to duplicate the factory finish is to use the manufacturers suggested starting grit while applying the manufacturers suggested factory finish.
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OnlyBowling
Post by: Brickguy221 on February 10, 2008, 08:51:45 PM
quote:
It seems to me that the best chance for the home refinisher to duplicate the factory finish is to use the manufacturers suggested starting grit while applying the manufacturers suggested factory finish.
onlybowling, some of us do this. For some people, the balls work great right out of the box whereas for others they don't and have to have the surfaces adjusted. The NIB finish doesn't always work for every one and some people have to sand and polish the balls to a grit different than the factory finish.
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"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Post by: onlybowling on February 18, 2008, 08:40:10 AM
Ball 1. Refreshed 1500 polished surface with 1500 grit paper then applied polish to 2000 grit paper that had soaked in water for a week. Did 6 sides. The result looked and felt like a 2000 polished factory finish from the Columbia factory.
Ball 2. Began with a fresh 800 grit wet sand then applied polish to a moist, not dripping wet, white scotch brite. Did 6 sides. The result was a higher shine than the 2000 grit polish that is tackier.
I have found that the gray pad + water - takes the ball to the 800 grit neighborhood. The white pad + water - takes the ball to the 1200 grit neighborhood. The white pad result is less specific than the gray pad, unless the pad is brand new. The gray pad maintains its' grit longer than the white pad. Either pad + water + joy dish soap or clean and dull produces a sheen finish. Of course, the white pad, being a finer grit, produces a higher sheen. The more Joy or clean and dull used the higher the sheen. I do not continually wet the pad after I have applied clean and dull. I rinse the ball at the completion of each side. I wet the fresh side. An additional amount of clean and dull is applied to the pad to approximate what was lost on the previous side. The clean and dull produces a fine foam which prevents full abrasive contact. The more sides done, the higher the sheen.
The ball polish also prevents full abrasive contact when using the white pad. A higher shine is developed with each full turn of the ball. I did not wet the balls during polish application. I did rinse the paper between sides. I did not rinse the nylon pad between sides. I did add polish. Perhaps, if I had rinsed the pad free of polish and started each side with a relatively clean pad I would have a duller finish on ball 2.
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OnlyBowling