Author Topic: Questions on polishing & sanding (Read 4451 times)

flickerooni · « **on:** January 16, 2005, 06:33:53 PM »

Hi, I haven't done any polishing/sanding of my ball yet but intend to do so soon.
I bought a Flash Flood, without knowing about particle balls' weakness in wrong oil conditions. So, I've decided to polish it. The only thing is that I'm not sure if I need to sand it before polishing.
Another thing is my Control Zone. It has not been able to hook, so I'm gonna sand it.(It can only hook for like 10 boards in really broken down conditions) So... how much should I sand it to? & do I need to polish it before or/& after sanding it?

charlest · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2005, 06:05:47 AM »

YOu don't need to sand the FF before polishing it. Most polishes do have some "grit" in them to reduce the roughness of the surface. Any polish will get you more length. Do that first. Get some added length from the FF. BUT do it in increments, if by chance it goes too long, you'll need to start over or rough up the surface slightly.

If by chance even a high gloss polish does not get you the length you need, THEN you can have the ball sanded to 1000 or 1200 grit and then polish it again.

Don't rough up the Control Zone ... yet. 10 boards is fine. You don't want a lot of hook on broken down or light oil patterns. The lanes provide the backend. In any case, wait until you see what you've got with the polished FF.

The CZ may need to be re-surfaced.
- How rough is the cover, the track?
- Could it be that it's too dull and grabbing the lane too early?
- Is it still polished?
The CZ is meant for light to medium-light oil patterns and normally goes long and hooks hard at the backend, like most resin pearls. However, the amount of backend depends on your hand, ball speed and what type of lane surface & oil pattern that you are on. If it is VERY dry, then the CZ could be hooking too early, but that's pretty unsuual.
Need more details.

flickerooni · « **Reply #2 on:** January 18, 2005, 02:05:30 AM »

huh? I don't understand what you mean by how rough is the cover, track? I haven't been cleaning my ball

but I can't feel any roughness on my ball(I've been using it for like 2 years) Maybe its dull, but its definitely not grabbing the lane early. & when I say 10 boards, I mean 10 boards on those kind of lane conditions like right after a tournament/league. & I also had to purposely throw much slower to allow it to hook. I've checked, & I'm categorized under crankers

I seriously think I should sand my CZ because I hardly come across such a burnt-out lane. & during competition, its definitely going to be well oiled.

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** January 18, 2005, 08:58:39 AM »

quote:
huh? I don't understand what you mean by how rough is the cover, track?

As you use a ball more and more, don't your track get rougher, more worn? Everybody's balls do . AS the track wears, the ball hooks earlier and earlier. We don't notice it because it's so gradual, but it does affect all ball eventually.

quote:

I haven't been cleaning my ball but I can't feel any roughness on my ball(I've been using it for like 2 years) Maybe its dull, but its definitely not grabbing the lane early. & when I say 10 boards, I mean 10 boards on those kind of lane conditions like right after a tournament/league. & I also had to purposely throw much slower to allow it to hook. I've checked, & I'm categorized under crankers I seriously think I should sand my CZ because I hardly come across such a burnt-out lane. & during competition, its definitely going to be well oiled.

Maybe you're just using too weak a ball for the oil pattern and the lane surface. If you're a cranker, even a worn Control Zone should hook more than 10 boards. Oil or dry is a very relative term: to different people it means different things, depending on how you throw the ball AND what you used to seeing.

Try roughing up the whole surface of the CZ with a Scotch-Brite green (600 grit) or maroon (320 grit) nylon pad by hand, in small steps. Check the reaction at the lanes each time in practice sessions; make sure the oil is close to what you're having problems with. Keep doing it by hand until you get the reaction you need. This is simple and takes little time.

Many home warehouse type places, supermarkets, hardware stores or auto supply places have these pads. The green and the maroon are very common and should be easy to get.

flickerooni · « **Reply #4 on:** January 19, 2005, 03:53:11 AM »

What if I let a pro shop guy sand/polish my balls

How much should I sand my CS to

320 grit

Do I have to polish the CZ before sanding

Or do I polish after sanding

Or polish both before & after sanding

My ball speed is quite fast, maybe that's why the CZ is not hooking that much...

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** January 19, 2005, 08:30:14 AM »

quote:
What if I let a pro shop guy sand/polish my balls How much should I sand my CS to 320 grit

Personally I think that's way too low.
Step by step, I'd startwith 1000 grit; then if that were still not hooking enough, try 600 grit. I wouldnot go below 600 grit.

quote:

Do I have to polish the CZ before sanding Or do I polish after sanding Or polish both before & after sanding

That depends on whether the polish has grit in it or not. Polishes with no grit will not affect the surface underneath; it will remain at the grit you sanded it. If the polish has grit in it, that will change the surface.
(Sometimes it is not obvious whether or not a polish has grit in it. One has to know the polish or talk to the manufacturer.)

What I'd suggest as a basic starting point:
1. Sand it to 1000 grit and leave it there. Try that. With your ball speed that may work. (you can try 1200 or 1500 grit, if your pro shop has those sandpapers.)

2A. If #1 makes the ball hook too early, then try this: Have him sand it to 600 grit and put a light polish on it, using any polish on hand. The idea is to just barely get a polish, a light shine on it; this will add minimal length for you.

2B. If #1 makes the ball still go too long or not hook enough, then try 600 or 800 grit and leave it smooth and matte or dull finish.

If 600 grit is not dull enough, you just need a stronger ball. Save the CZ for tournament dry conditions.

quote:

My ball speed is quite fast, maybe that's why the CZ is not hooking that much...

I agree. The ratio between revs and ball speed is very important. Unfortunately there's no formula for that, because after that comes the amount of oil, the lane surface and the relationship between them all.

The greater your ball speed to your revs, the more surface you need on a ball for any given oil amount. The lower your speed compared to your revs, the more polish or the finer (higher grit) surface you need.

flickerooni · « **Reply #6 on:** January 20, 2005, 04:28:34 AM »

WAIT! do you know the grit of CZ when its factory made? If its quite high then maybe I'll sand to 1000 grit.

flickerooni · « **Reply #7 on:** January 24, 2005, 02:19:27 AM »

Someone told me to sand the FF to 2000 grit, so should I follow him or sand to what you say?(which is 1000/1200 grit)

Author Topic: Questions on polishing & sanding (Read 4451 times)

flickerooni

Questions on polishing & sanding

charlest

Re: Questions on polishing & sanding

flickerooni

Re: Questions on polishing & sanding

charlest

Re: Questions on polishing & sanding

flickerooni

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charlest

Re: Questions on polishing & sanding

flickerooni

Re: Questions on polishing & sanding

flickerooni

Re: Questions on polishing & sanding