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Author Topic: Rough Buff  (Read 6104 times)

TheProphet

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Rough Buff
« on: April 08, 2007, 03:39:06 AM »
Hows rough buff by hand? Difficult to use?

 

Aloarjr810

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2007, 12:19:12 PM »
Well I just started using it recently. It works pretty well
by hand.

A spinner is better, but you can get good shine by hand.
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TheProphet

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2007, 01:07:43 PM »
Thanks

LowRG

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2007, 01:22:46 PM »
It is not supposed to be shiny.

Aloarjr810

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2007, 06:43:17 PM »
Whats it suppose to look like then?

Now I used it on a ball done with 500 grit abralon and got a shiny finish.

Its all going to depend on what the under laying
surface texture is to begin with what its going to
look like.

As you can see here.To get the semi-gloss or matte finish
its on a ball with a surface of 220grit.

"Rough Buff: A new product, developed for use in the Brunswick factory,
now available to Pro Shops and bowlers. Use Rough Buff to polish
all Brunswick coverstocks. Brunswick’s Factory Finish Rough Buff provides
a finish that can be described as semi-gloss or matte finish or rubbing compound.
This type of surface finish reacts earlier on the lane with a more even breakpoint
and more overall hooking action than the High Gloss Polish finish. Sand to 220-grit
then use Brunswick’s Factory Finish Rough Buff to restore the original factory finish
of balls listed as “Rough Buff”."

Factory Finishes PDF








Edited on 4/8/2007 6:51 PM
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LowRG

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2007, 09:16:06 AM »
it is supposed to look dull-ish.  There is a HUGE difference from a 220-grit RB to a 500-grit RB.  Probably about 2-3 feet more length

charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2007, 11:08:44 AM »
quote:
Hows rough buff by hand? Difficult to use?


It's fine but it does not and cannot produce the finish of the Brunswick balls as they come out of the box. You must use a spinner to produce that.

A spinner is all but an essential in coverstock manipulation. Hand work can produce a decent result for a small percentage of the things you may want to so, but for the most part, to produce most results, the time and degree of difficulty are in the range of 10:1 to 100:1, compared to using a spinner. I can verify that from 8 - 10 years ago, having tried to re-surface a Columbia Pulse and from trying to change the surface and to then polish a Blue Hammer. The Blue Hammer was all but impossible to do by hand.

The price of a spinner and basic supplies varies from 1 to 2 new bowling balls. For the most part, it's closer to two new ones.
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Aloarjr810

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2007, 04:01:06 PM »
quote:
it is supposed to look dull-ish.  There is a HUGE difference from a 220-grit RB to a 500-grit RB.  Probably about 2-3 feet more length


Well if something looks dull-ish then that means it looks alittle shiny-ish also.

Your right there is a a difference between 220 & 500 grit RB. but we are not talking about length produced. But what the ball looked like.

But here I'll retract the statement of "Shiny" and replace it with.

"After sanding the ball with a 500 grit abralon pad and applying Rough Buff. The ball had a matte surface with a semi-gloss appearance."

Click Here for photo


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shelley

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2007, 04:10:00 PM »
Rough Buff, like other compound polishes, should leave the surface, as Al said, looking like a semi-gloss; you polished it, then used a higher-grit sandpaper and just knocked the glossy shine off.  All the compound-finished balls I've seen were like that.

SH

dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2007, 04:23:10 AM »
I experimented with Rough Buff on my S&A. I got the info from MoRich's technical support that I could use a 600 grit base plus Rough Buff with some added water to achieve the S&A's OOB status (which is finer than Brunswick's factory finish).

Well, the result was a very glossy and slick surface. Much like 4.000 Abralon OOB. But the ball did not grip well in oil at all, much different from the OOB condition.
After some more trials on the S&A and a friend's Awesome Flip I found that Rough Buff needs a coarse base grit. With  brown 3M pad (320 grit?) and Rough Buff from 4 sides I get at least the Activator+ material close to OOB status, with great grip. The surface has truly a sheen appearance - semi glossy, but not shiny. Less lustre than 4.000 Abralon OOB from Ebonite or Hammer, and you can still see the sanding lines.
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Edited on 4/12/2007 4:22 AM
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dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2007, 05:09:12 AM »
Hmmm, which base grit did you use? As mentioned before, I found that Rough Buff needs some coarse/matte base grit, otherwise the compound smoothes out the surface very much and leaves it in a shiny, quite grip-less state?

Only other thing besides a too fine grit base I can imagine is that you used it too long?
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charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2007, 05:16:29 AM »
dizzy,

I played with two new S&A til kingdom come.
I can guarantee it never started with 600 grit. Start with 220 grit and use Rough Buff VERY carefully. It is VERY abrasive compared to other compounds. It smoothes out that very rough 220 grit VERY quickly.

The final finish should have you wondering whetehr it's a polish or a matte finish. If you're wondering, then you've got it - a compound finish.

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dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2007, 05:28:09 AM »
Yeah, you are correct. 600 grit and Rough Buff is not the "right" thing, I just wonder why the MoRich guys told me so? You are correct about the stuff's abrasiveness. Rough Buff really needs a coarse/matte surface base to work properly or at all. Funny thing is that the finish I achieved (yes, kinda glossy between polish and sheen) looks pretty much the same as my pure steel wool finish (3.000 grit, I think) I had on my S&A before. But the Rough Buff finish made it much more aggressive once it hits dry ground, wow! Back to OOB, I'd say
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charlest

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2007, 03:27:56 PM »
Dizzy,

FWIW, I really like Track's CLean and Sheen. It's similar to Rough Buff in what it does, BUT it's more gentle is how it does it. You can easily take it in small steps with C & S and stop at good spots along the way.

Rough Buff, by contrast, seems like an on/off switch. C&S is an adjustable switch letting you stop at many places: A local rather than an express run.
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dizzyfugu

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Re: Rough Buff
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2007, 08:47:32 AM »
Thank you CharlesT for the info. It is quite difficult to get hold on sophisticated bowling equipment around here. I'd like to try other products than Brunswick, but it is simply not available. I have seen some Storm stuff on ebay, that's all. So I use Brunswick's polish, which luckily works very well on anything I have tried so far, and then Rough Buff as a compound. I also tried to buy some 3M compound, but it is only for the professional market here and the assotrment is much more limited than in the US (sigh).

Concerning Rough Buff, I agree with you. Even though I haven't used it often so far, it is very aggressive/abrasive, and somehow appears to be limited in its use. I thought (or hoped) I could achieve some nice in-between finishes with it between polish and high grit Abralon finishes, but it does not seem to work. You need the coarse base, apply Rough Buff, and you have a working ball with a defined surface. But nothing more. Finer grits haven't worked for me so far (See above), and I'd like to try other compounds since I think that they offer a very versatile finish, and good compromise between bite and slide.
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