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Author Topic: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes  (Read 5368 times)

scooter19530

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ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« on: April 25, 2007, 12:38:59 AM »
i used to have someone elsedo my stuff so i never really asked, but my question is what exactly is the difference between ruff buff and high gloss polish and how will they each change the reaction of the ball?

 

shelley

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2007, 08:57:15 AM »
High Gloss is a grit-less polish, whatever surface you start with is the surface you finish with.  It's a shiny polish.  Rough Buff is a compound polish with grit.  Going with Brunswick's standard finishes, 220-grit plus RB gives about roughly a 1000-grit finish with a light polish.  Their standard 400-grit plus HG is shinier.

With their standard finishes, a HG ball will have more length, less midlane, and more backend than a RB ball.  The RB ball will have more midlane and a strong arc on the backend.

Of course, it depends on the starting grit.  800-grit plus RB will give you a different finish than the standard 220-grit RB and 1500-grit plus HG will be different from 400-grit plus HG.

SH

scooter19530

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2007, 09:28:35 AM »
thanks, that is exactly what i wanted to know. i did notice on the brunswick sight, the high gloss was not for particles, i am assuming because a particle ball is more of a early break and strong arc as opposed to a reactive or pearl that will go longer with more snap. the RB can be used on all, am i pretty close to being right?

shelley

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2007, 09:42:24 AM »
Brunswick's put HG on several particle balls.  The Impulse Zone, the Ambush, and the Raging Inferno all had HG finishes.  Putting a coat of HG on a particle ball can help it get through spotty heads, while the particles help smooth out the backend reaction and give it more midlane and cut through carrydown on the back.  That polish won't turn a particle ball into a skid-snap beast.

On a ball designed for length and a skid-snap reaction like many pearl reactives, HG can enhance that.  But it's a double-edged sword, as it can mean the ball is extremely over-under and sensitive to oil.  In that case, RB can help smooth the reaction and turn over-under into additional midlane with still a strong backend.

To my knowledge, there are no particle balls with Rough Buff (out of the factory).  At least not under the Brunswick name.  Morich's Awesome Revs is a particle pearl with a compound finish.  It's made by Brunswick, and while Mo doesn't always go with Brunswick's few stock finishes, my guess is that it's RB (I believe the Shock & Awe was also RB).  Might be a different starting grit though.

SH

Edited on 4/25/2007 9:41 AM

directdrill

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2007, 10:04:46 AM »
Shelley,

I just sanded my Track Inertia with a green Scotch Brite pad, which is about 600 grit, unless I am mistaken.  I'm considering polishing with Brunswick Rough Buff.  Any ideas as to what the final grit would be?
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dizzyfugu

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2007, 10:25:30 AM »
RB is hard to compare to a polish. In fact, it is an abrasive compound that smoothes out the surface. What I found out is that it really needs a coarse base grit to work properly, e. g. a maroon pad (320 grit, methinks?). I tried a 600 grit base on a Shock & Awe, but this left the ball very shiny and with poor grip. The ball was dead! Therafter, I used a coarser base as suggested by Brunswick, and the ball is back, as good as OOB.

IMHO, RB is quite limited in use, but can be a ticket if you want to smooth out the breakpoint on a flippy ball. To me, the finish appears in strength similar to a 4.000 Abralon finish, but looks different, more dullish.
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shelley

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2007, 10:57:03 AM »
quote:
I just sanded my Track Inertia with a green Scotch Brite pad, which is about 600 grit, unless I am mistaken.  I'm considering polishing with Brunswick Rough Buff.  Any ideas as to what the final grit would be?


The higher the starting grit, the higher the final grit, I'd expect (certainly until you get to 1000+).  Some grit-based polishes tell you what they shine to, but that's only an approximation.  About the most you can count on is that a polish that says "1500-grit polish" like Storm's Step 2 will generally be shinier than one that says "800-grit polish" like Step 1.  

But the true final finish is dependent on how long you burn it in and how much pressure you apply.  With more effort, the abrasives wear down or break apart into finer abrasives, giving a higher grit finish.  The rate that happens also depends on how rough the starting surface is and how much work those abrasives have to do.

I'd expect RB to be less shiny than HG even at 600-grit, but dizzy disagrees.  Since he's actually done it and I'm just gedanken, I'd listen to him.  Too much polish with too little underlying surface generally means too much skid or real over-under.

SH

charlest

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Re: ruff buff vs. high gloss polishes
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2007, 07:03:33 PM »
quote:

I'd expect RB to be less shiny than HG even at 600-grit, but dizzy disagrees.  Since he's actually done it and I'm just gedanken, I'd listen to him.  Too much polish with too little underlying surface generally means too much skid or real over-under.

SH


Yes, SHelley. I have done it also. The RB bottle says to start at 220 grit (prior to apply ROugh Buff). Then, just like their HIGH Gloss polissh (which says to start at 400 grit), you can sand finer, say 320 or 400 or even 600 grit), but as you sand finer, RB takes the surface finer still because it has a LOT of aggressiveness. I'd caution anyone about going right to 600 grit prior to applying RB.

I have taken several Brunswick pearls to 800 and 1500 grit before applying their High Gloss polish; balls get more length with less backend, as would be expected.

As always, I strongly recommend one EXPERIMENTAL step at a time. It's much easier to take the next forward step than to go backwards ...
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