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Author Topic: Sanding and polish  (Read 6866 times)

Leftypower

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Sanding and polish
« on: October 27, 2015, 07:15:18 AM »
First post on this website, very good information, thank you
I help out at a Pro Shop and do a lot of sanding to so called factory finish! I have the storm sanding application chart posted in front of me, with grit sequence and sanding times for those grits. And we can debate that information by the previous threads I have read. Not saying anyone is wrong, just trying to give the customer what their asking for when they bought it new.8832
But with that being said, what would be a good sequence and time per?
360: 4 sides 30 seconds
500: 4 sides 15 seconds
Then whatever the final finish is 4 sides 5 seconds?
If polished: how much polish? Dime, quarter,.....size?
Light pressure!!! Is.............?
Sorry ALL done on a ball spinner.
Thank you, 

 

charlest

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2015, 09:03:09 AM »
The usual finishes after 500 grit are 2000 or 4000 grit.
I'd suggest 10 - 15 seconds for 4 sides, with light pressure. You want to just smooth out the peaks and not affect the valleys of the previous grit.

Polish: I use quarter sized dollops, spread or smear it over the top half of the ball (o help prevent globs from spinning out onto the surrounding areas). Then press with medium pressure, going up and down the side of the ball for 30 - 45 seconds. Then buff with a clean terry cloth towel or micro fiber towel. The do the same to the other side. This should produce a medium gloss.

Use less polish, less pressure for less time to get a light shine on the ball.

Use more polish, more pressure for a longer time and burn it in, until some warmth is generated to produce a high gloss shine.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2015, 04:05:44 PM by charlest »
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Brickguy221

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2015, 11:51:46 AM »
The usual finishes after 500 grit are 2000 or 4000 grit.
I'd suggest 10 - 15 seconds for 4 sides, with light pressure. You want to just smooth out the peaks and not affect the valleys of the previous grit.

Polish: I use quarter sized dollops, spread or smear it over the top half of the ball (o help prevent globs from spinning out onto the surrounding areas). Then press with medium pressure, going up and down the side of the ball for 30 - 45 minutes . Then buff with a clean terry cloth towel or micro fiber towel. The do the same to the other side. This should produce a medium gloss.

Use less polish, less pressure for less time to get a light shine on the ball.

Use more polish, more pressure for a longer time and burn it in, until some warmth is generated to produce a high gloss shine.

Jeff, isn't that 30-45 minutes a typo?  You do mean seconds don't you???
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milorafferty

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2015, 12:52:48 PM »
If you go the 360 then 500 route, you need to use Storms Step 2 to bring it to a shine. Polish over 500 grit will not get you there. And it's pretty much a guessing game unless you have access to a surface scanner.
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charlest

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2015, 04:06:03 PM »
The usual finishes after 500 grit are 2000 or 4000 grit.
I'd suggest 10 - 15 seconds for 4 sides, with light pressure. You want to just smooth out the peaks and not affect the valleys of the previous grit.

Polish: I use quarter sized dollops, spread or smear it over the top half of the ball (o help prevent globs from spinning out onto the surrounding areas). Then press with medium pressure, going up and down the side of the ball for 30 - 45 minutes . Then buff with a clean terry cloth towel or micro fiber towel. The do the same to the other side. This should produce a medium gloss.

Use less polish, less pressure for less time to get a light shine on the ball.

Use more polish, more pressure for a longer time and burn it in, until some warmth is generated to produce a high gloss shine.

Jeff, isn't that 30-45 minutes a typo?  You do mean seconds don't you???

Yes, I corrected it. Thanks.
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charlest

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2015, 04:08:46 PM »
If you go the 360 then 500 route, you need to use Storms Step 2 to bring it to a shine. Polish over 500 grit will not get you there. And it's pretty much a guessing game unless you have access to a surface scanner.

Yes, I'd never suggest using polish over 500 grit.
I assume you, the op, would know to set the base grit (before applying polish) to something between 1500 and 4000 grit, based on what you want the ball's final surface to look like.
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Brickguy221

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2015, 06:02:47 PM »
If you go the 360 then 500 route, you need to use Storms Step 2 to bring it to a shine. Polish over 500 grit will not get you there. And it's pretty much a guessing game unless you have access to a surface scanner.

Yes, I'd never suggest using polish over 500 grit.
I assume you, the op, would know to set the base grit (before applying polish) to something between 1500 and 4000 grit, based on what you want the ball's final surface to look like.

Jeff, in going back a few years, didn't Brunswick used to put polish over 400 grit? I could be wrong there though, but am thinking they did.
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away"

charlest

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2015, 06:52:33 PM »
If you go the 360 then 500 route, you need to use Storms Step 2 to bring it to a shine. Polish over 500 grit will not get you there. And it's pretty much a guessing game unless you have access to a surface scanner.

Yes, I'd never suggest using polish over 500 grit.
I assume you, the op, would know to set the base grit (before applying polish) to something between 1500 and 4000 grit, based on what you want the ball's final surface to look like.

Jeff, in going back a few years, didn't Brunswick used to put polish over 400 grit? I could be wrong there though, but am thinking they did.

Yes, but they applied a very abrasive polish for a long time. It still resulted in a finish that was almost 5000 grit. So there's no need to start with so rough a base. If you're only going to put a slight polish over a 400 or 500 grit base, you might as well use a 3000 or 4000 grit abrasive pad and get a more useful surface, to my mind.
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Aloarjr810

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2015, 09:28:43 PM »

Jeff, in going back a few years, didn't Brunswick used to put polish over 400 grit? I could be wrong there though, but am thinking they did.
Brunswick Factory Finishes 2006:
OOB listed as “High Gloss Polish”
Sand to 400-grit then use Brunswick’s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish to restore the original factory finish of balls listed as “High Gloss Polish”.

OOB listed as "Rough Buff"
Sand to 220-grit then use Brunswick’s Factory Finish Rough Buff to restore the original factory finish of balls listed as “Rough Buff”.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2015, 09:33:15 PM by Aloarjr810 »
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charlest

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Re: Sanding and polish
« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2015, 02:02:09 PM »

Jeff, in going back a few years, didn't Brunswick used to put polish over 400 grit? I could be wrong there though, but am thinking they did.
Brunswick Factory Finishes 2006:
OOB listed as “High Gloss Polish”
Sand to 400-grit then use Brunswick’s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish to restore the original factory finish of balls listed as “High Gloss Polish”.

OOB listed as "Rough Buff"
Sand to 220-grit then use Brunswick’s Factory Finish Rough Buff to restore the original factory finish of balls listed as “Rough Buff”.


FYI This hasn't changed one bit.
I just got my new StrikeKing ball. On the info sheet with the ball were these same words, still there.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."