win a ball from Bowling.com

Author Topic: Sanding Crux  (Read 3249 times)

bigErn

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Sanding Crux
« on: March 13, 2015, 03:32:56 AM »
After finding some success sanding and compounding an old Super Freak I had laying around, I figured why not try my hand at sanding the Crux back to what Storm says it should be OBB. 500 Abralon 30 seconds, 3000 Abralon 10 seconds.

I tried Google'ing and reading to make sure everything was good. Some of the stuff, one from Storm, recommended using Scotch-Brite pads (something about saving the particles on the cover) for as many grits as possible. I found a Roto Grip response on another site that discussed the idea behind sanding. You cut to make groves on the ball, say at 500. Those peaks and valleys you want to slightly smooth over, so you come back with a 3,000 grit, but you don't want totally ruin that topography you cut earlier by burning 3,000 all over the ball.
So I went with how y'all and some other that folks suggested, maroon SB to give it a 360 grit and cut the ball up. I did the SB pad very lightly, just enough to make my dipping water slushy colored like we talked about. Then I used a 500 grit Siaar, thirty seconds each on each side, four sides total. I pressed a little 'firmer' this time. I tried to make a conscious effort for it to be more pressure than the last time, but nothing beyond like a basic hand tight non-load bearing screw amount of pressure. Just like was told me, there is no science behind this other than experience.

After the 500 pad, I went to the 3,000 Siaar, using much less pressure than the 500. ±12 seconds each side, four sides total. Just enough pressure to keep the Sanding block on the ball, while feeling and, to an extent, hearing the friction going on. I noticed there was hardly anything at all coming off the ball, certainly not like the 500.
Not exactly a bad thing though if the goal is to save the cuts we previously made though, right?

Tonight, I went up for our normal round of Thursday open bowling cross lane practice. The lanes were actually not too chewed up until the 3th game. I did what I always do and started out with my Crux. Generally, I am able to get through one game before there is simply too much friction.
Tonight, though, it just didn't move much and when I did get it into the pocket my normal carry was no where to be found. It appeared to be loosing energy and deflecting. I tinkered with that Elite Alien earlier in the year and it was doing the same thing.
I realize, it is probably impossible to tell me anything without being able to see it in real time. Your educated guess is worth more than mine though.   ;D

I don't even know if the science behind this guess is correct-- still learning the physics of what's going on here. Sorry in advance.  :(

I am guessing that the ball is burning energy before it gets down lane into the friction, as a result the overall hook is being reduced. This is exacerbated by the fact that the lanes were not fresh so the ball wasn't ever skidding and building momentum.
This could be brought about by several things:
1.) I screwed up the sanding. The 3,000 grit never took hold.
2.) The ball is just oil logged, which is possible, however, since I just sanded it I have trouble believing this.
3.) The lanes were chewed up, more fiction in the first 20 or so feet didn't allow the ball to properly skid so any possible back end was suffering. I read about how light~dry lane balls have super high grit levels to save as much energy as possible for the back end. I was told that if I want a smoother rolling ball, you use more grit levels going up. Factory 500 to 3000 is a rough cut though.

I just have in my mind, that a ball on designed for 'heavy oil' being thrown on second shift or light oil will move past the head pin and hit the 4-7. That wasn't even in the realm of possibility tonight. I couldn't get the ball to Brooklyn if I tried. I don't get it. League is this Sunday, it runs 3 man teams, 4 games total. I would like to be able to use my Crux the first two and am worried it might not make it past warm-ups.

Side note,
LMB cleaner, my goodness does it clean the dirt off. I already feel the need to bring a fresh microfiber when I am done because there is so much gunk it gets off. My teammate tried it when he was done tonight and make a remark about how it wasn't tacky enough for him. Guess it wasn't used right-- felt like I could palm my IQ Fusion off the rack like a basketball.

 

Impending Doom

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6288
Re: Sanding Crux
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2015, 08:58:02 AM »
Ball is puking by the time it hits the dots.

Gene J Kanak

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3005
Re: Sanding Crux
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2015, 11:33:40 AM »
That would be my assessment as well. The Crux is VERY strong even at the OOB 3000 grit finish. Adding additional surface to that ball requires tons of ball speed and/or tons of oil.