Lucky-
Not sure if you are trying to help us or jinx us.

I have been fooling around with this theory myself. I agree with you on the reactions you will get from with or against the track (initial track). Only added method I would include is sanding ON the bowtie. In other words set the ball into the spinner with the bowtie centered at the top of the ball. This provides the most aggressive early reaction and, the most controlled arc.

This brings up something that has been bothering me regarding surface grits. I have found that the coarser the ending finish the more initial change I see but then as I bowl the ball becomes buffed back down to some finer surface grit by the friction on the lane. So, the question is, whats the sense of sanding a ball to anything coarser than say 600? This is espescially evident to me with my Colossus Supreme which seems to have a very soft cover on it. If I sand this ball to even 800, after the FIRST throw I inspect it and, find the tracks are worn down already. So as the ball is used it will slowly loose the initial changes in reaction from the sanding. Used a maroon scotchbrite on my V2 Particle ball one night just prior to league play and, the thing would hook like crazy the first 3 shots then change reaction drastically after that. I have since stayed away from any major surface changes just before league starts.

Another method not talked about much here is sanding with a coarse grit and, then going to a much finer grit immediately after that. Havent played with this much but want to experiment with this. Any ideas on that subject?

BT

Understand the reasoning for progressively going up in grit. What I was getting at is intentionally leaving the coarse sanding scrathes in the ball by polishing the tops down like the lanes will do. My idea was to make the ball more consistent right off after sanding.

I guess it depends on the hardness of the balls cover as to how long it will hold a coarse sanding. My driller told me a story about somewhere where he used to bowl that was occasionally a total flood. He said he kept a ball with him sanded to 60 GRIT in case it happened to be that way. So much for oiling protecting those lanes.

ttt


BT      Posted: 5/10/2003 6:46 AM


Lucky-
Not sure if you are trying to help us or jinx us.
I have been fooling around with this theory myself. I agree with you on the reactions you will get from with or against the track (initial track). Only added method I would include is sanding ON the bowtie. In other words set the ball into the spinner with the bowtie centered at the top of the ball. This provides the most aggressive early reaction and, the most controlled arc.
This brings up something that has been bothering me regarding surface grits. I have found that the coarser the ending finish the more initial change I see but then as I bowl the ball becomes buffed back down to some finer surface grit by the friction on the lane. So, the question is, whats the sense of sanding a ball to anything coarser than say 600? This is espescially evident to me with my Colossus Supreme which seems to have a very soft cover on it. If I sand this ball to even 800, after the FIRST throw I inspect it and, find the tracks are worn down already. So as the ball is used it will slowly loose the initial changes in reaction from the sanding. Used a maroon scotchbrite on my V2 Particle ball one night just prior to league play and, the thing would hook like crazy the first 3 shots then change reaction drastically after that. I have since stayed away from any major surface changes just before league starts.
Another method not talked about much here is sanding with a coarse grit and, then going to a much finer grit immediately after that. Havent played with this much but want to experiment with this. Any ideas on that subject?
BT


LuckyLefty    Posted: 5/10/2003 8:02 AM  


Jinx???
Um, most sanders start at coarse and go up to final grit.
I sanded a Pro Zone Azure to 320 and it held for several sets.
Made me look like the biggest handed bowler on a Bad a__ oiled shot while others couldn't make a wrinkle. Cool.
REgards,
Luckylefty

BT   Posted: 5/10/2003 8:18 AM  


Understand the reasoning for progressively going up in grit. What I was getting at is intentionally leaving the coarse sanding scrathes in the ball by polishing the tops down like the lanes will do. My idea was to make the ball more consistent right off after sanding.
I guess it depends on the hardness of the balls cover as to how long it will hold a coarse sanding. My driller told me a story about somewhere where he used to bowl that was occasionally a total flood. He said he kept a ball with him sanded to 60 GRIT in case it happened to be that way. So much for oiling protecting those lanes.

Greg Hoppe     Posted: 5/10/2003 2:27 PM


this is a very important and interesting topic. the majority of bowlers do not even think about changing the coverstock on a particular ball----they assume the factory finish is "good enough". you will notice the biggest change in ball reaction with different types of coverstock alteration.






Edited on 11/5/2004 8:42 AM

FASTER, more EVEN with a spinner but COULD be done by hand.  But REMEMBER, the ENTIRE ball has to be done, NOT just the track.
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TOO many IDIOTS, so LITTLE time.

Thanks to you guys.. prepped my 2 year old savage pearl with with scotchbrite along the track.. got the front nine..

PS: baiki.. been too long..how are things..
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DARK BEER IT IS THEN!