Author Topic: Sanding then Polishing a cover stock. (Read 1661 times)

BigHorhn · « **on:** August 09, 2004, 11:53:34 PM »

I noticed reading in the Brunswick forum that people where talking about sanding
the surface on the ball then polishing it to get a desired reaction. I usually
wet sand my oil ball if it is not handling enough oil. What kind of reaction do you get from sanding it first then polishing? How do you know what grit to use
of sand paper or polish to get a desired reaction? Why do both? Greg Hoppe you
seem to know a lot about this I would appreciate a comment from you. Thanks

DON DRAPER · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2004, 09:35:14 PM »

i have spoken with both tom tomaras and rick benoit of brunswick about coverstock preparation of brunswick bowling balls and they agree that this is appx. 75% of the balls reaction. based on what i've seen for the past 9 years or so i agree with them.

most brunswick reactive balls come from the factory wetsanded 400 grit and then polished with brunswicks high gloss polish. the ultimate inferno though comes wetsanded 800 grit.

most of brunswicks particle balls come from the factory wetsanded-----the grit varied depending on the ball. they are usually left dull as they were made for oily lanes.

much of my preference for certain coverstock preparations comes from trial and error. it's cheap and fairly quick to adjust the coverstock from very dull to highly polished. i'm sorry i can't be of any more help. you'll have to try and see what works. remember, what works for me may not work for you. good luck !

Burak Natal · « **Reply #2 on:** October 08, 2004, 06:28:26 PM »

If I may add something to what Greg said;

Last year Tom Tomaras laid out two Ultimate Infernos for one of my students.
One was drilled 3X5 and sanded to 600grit
Other one was drilled 5X5 and surface preparation was 320sanded then 600grit polished..
"Generally" sanding down to 320-400grit and polishing will handle more oil than sanding to finer grit as starting point before polish..
Other than adjusting the cover, some do this coz they believe that sometimes out of box polish is too over/under.. Some others do this in order to know what is on the ball and easily be duplicated when time comes..
But in the end, experiment, trial and error are the key words for correct match up..

Hope this helps,
Burak

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2004, 10:53:39 AM »

Sanding a ball and then polishing it will do several things.

First is that it depends on what the surface grit is that you start with.

If the ball is say 320 it will have a lot of bite like a mud and snow tire. This is good if you have plenty of oil and the pattern is long or has plenty of carry down. However if the heads dry up the ball will grab too soon. If you have drier heads with carry down having some grit with polish over it helps you get through the heads and the then give you a little more bite on the backend. But not too much over under as seen in highly polished balls in a wet/dry condition. This also helps the ball save some energy.

Polish helpd the ball slip a little more but can be too snapy if hitting the dry.

That is one reason the Elixir was invented. You get some of the best properties of keeping a ball with surface bite but you also get a ball that doesn't overreact due to polishing.

Message me if you need help

--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

Author Topic: Sanding then Polishing a cover stock. (Read 1661 times)

BigHorhn

Sanding then Polishing a cover stock.

DON DRAPER

Re: Sanding then Polishing a cover stock.

Burak Natal

Re: Sanding then Polishing a cover stock.

Doc Hollywood

Re: Sanding then Polishing a cover stock.