Author Topic: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads? (Read 12716 times)

Brickguy221 · « **on:** April 25, 2004, 10:17:05 PM »

I am trying to learn something about sanding balls and using a spinner. I notice that some people use sandpaper only, some people use scotchbrite pads only, and some people use both. I would appreciate all of the information I can get on the following:

1. Do you use Sandpaper and if so on what balls, reactive, particle, etc?
2. Do you use Scotchbrite Pads and if so on what kind of balls, reactive, particle, and etc?
3. Why do you use one or the other or both of the above?

All responses will be really appreciated. Thanks in advance fellows.
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Uranium and Depth Charge, a powerful combination

gbushman · « **Reply #16 on:** May 02, 2004, 02:22:16 PM »

Sandpaper you ONLY have one layer of grit materiel - wears fast. On scotchbrite, the WHOLE pad IS the grit materiel. True or not?

charlest · « **Reply #17 on:** May 02, 2004, 06:48:33 PM »

Brickguy,

I mention some of these concerns in a earlier reply in this thread.
- you can't press too hard or too long with either nylon pads or w/d sandpaper, especially sandpaper. 30 seconds on a 600 grit wet/dry paper is definitely too long with medium or higher pressure. If the paper feels smooth by the time you're finished, you probably have a 1000-1200 grit or possibly higher finish on the ball. Almost light pressure on the top half of a ball, while it's spinning, will do (use up) that piece of sandpaper.

- you have to develop a feel for what the ball looks and literally feels like with either sandpaper or SB nylon pads, with each grit.

Let's put it this way. If you sand a ball, you should be able to see the difference in its reaction if you sand it to 600 grit, 1000 grit and 1500/2000 grit. That is, if the oil pattern allows you to see differences and you can find a oil pattern laid down with some consistency. (Fresh oil, timed immediately after the house oils, like Noon or 1 PM, may be the best time.) The difference may not be huge AND you should be a relatively observant bowler (many bowlers are not!), but these are valid grit changes to change a ball's reaction.

Again, please keep in mind that some patterns (like some house walls) make a range balls appear to be very similar. If you are pressing too hard on a 600 grit paper, it will make it seem very similar to a 1000 or 1200 grit paper.

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"We get old too fast, and too late, smart."

Edited on 5/2/2004 6:41 PM

Brickguy221 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 02, 2004, 10:57:00 PM »

Thanks Charlest. When I finish, my paper is smooth so it looks like I may be either pressing too hard or going too long. If 30 seconds is too long can you give me an idea as to how long I should sand on each side?

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but lets say I have a ball with 1000 grit and I want to go to 400 grit, I sand the polish off at that 1000 grit, then go to 800, then 600, then 400......If I have a 400 grit ball and want to go to 1000, I do it in steps also. I sand polish off at 400, then 600, then 800, and then 1000.

I change sandpaper for each side. (6 pieces of sandpaper on a 6 sided sanding) Is that the correct thing to do?.......Hey, I'm almost there.

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Ex Member of Lane 1 Clique

charlest · « **Reply #19 on:** May 02, 2004, 11:30:39 PM »

quote:
Thanks Charlest. When I finish, my paper is smooth so it looks like I may be either pressing too hard or going too long. If 30 seconds is too long can you give me an idea as to how long I should sand on each side?

No, this is something that does not seem to offer an easily measurable pressure or time limit. Sandpaper goes thru degradation of the grit: particles seem to get finer and finer. Only with Trizact, because their particles are so hard, does this not happen, that I am aware of.

If there's only paper left, you pressed too hard or too long or some combo of both.

quote:

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but lets say I have a ball with 1000 grit and I want to go to 400 grit, I sand the polish off at that 1000 grit, then go to 800, then 600, then 400.

Why do that? Just start with 400 grit and water. Going down from 1000 grit seems like a waste of time, electricity, sandpaper and money.
When you down shift at a red light in a manual transmision, no one I know goes from 4th to 3rd to 2nd, then to 1st gear. Not unless you're on a bad hill, I guess. Brakes are cheaper and easier to replace than clutches or gears or transmissions.

quote:

If I have a 400 grit ball and want to go to 1000, I do it in steps also. I sand polish off at 400, then 600, then 800, and then 1000.

I'd skip the 800 grit step once and see what happens.
You go up in grit to get rid of the sanding lines, mostly, and to make it finer.

quote:

I change sandpaper for each side. (6 pieces of sandpaper on a 6 sided sanding) Is that the correct thing to do?.......Hey, I'm almost there.

To be honest, I rarely do 6 sides with every sandpaper change. I do 2 - 4 sides
as I go up or down, depending. One can get too ... rigid about some of these procedures. Perfection is good, if you have to be 110% positive, and you have the time and patience.

FYI there are some abrasive liquids, like Quik-Cut 'n' Polish and Clean 'n' Sheen which are meant to remove sanding marks from 320-500 grit sandpaper.
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"We get old too fast, and too late, smart."

Brickguy221 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 03, 2004, 02:01:18 AM »

Quote

......"FYI there are some abrasive liquids, like Quik-Cut 'n' Polish and Clean 'n' Sheen which are meant to remove sanding marks from 320-500 grit sandpaper."
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Well Charlest and Plus 40, I am still trying to learn...lol...In reference to the above statement, I may be wrong, but I thought that Clean & Sheen was a 1000 Grit Polish. If so, lets say you sand a ball to 400 or 600, and then use Clean & Sheen, wouldn't this of made the sanding to 400 or 600 useless since the Clean & Sheen is going to change it to 1000?

I would think that if a person wanted their ball to be a final 400 or 600 grit and polished, then after sanding to that grit wouldn't a person have to use a straight "grit-less" polish like Black Magic or Storm X-tra Shine or Magic Shine etc.? I don't understand that if a person uses a 1000 Grit Polish, then why waste time sanding to a lower grit. Why not sand to 1000 to begin with since the Grit Polish is going to change what the ball was originally sanded to.

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Ex Member of Lane 1 Clique

charlest · « **Reply #21 on:** May 03, 2004, 07:31:41 AM »

quote:
In reference to the above statement, I may be wrong, but I thought that Clean & Sheen was a 1000 Grit Polish. If so, lets say you sand a ball to 400 or 600, and then use Clean & Sheen, wouldn't this of made the sanding to 400 or 600 useless since the Clean & Sheen is going to change it to 1000?

1. There are no absolutes. Just because the description says it will finish the ball to 1000 grit does not mean every application no matter how much pressure, how much liquid and for how long it is applied will all finish the ball to 1000 grit.

2, Here is a description of Clean-n-Sheen from Bowlers' Paradise:
"Removing sanding marks and scratches on polyester, urethane and reactive resin balls. To match our factory "sheen" finish, sand ball with 400 grit sandpaper, then use Clean and Sheen."

Both Clean-n-Sheen and Quik-Cut and Polish will add some degree of shine AFTER they get rid of the sanding marks. Q-C & P was designed for driller to smooth over the routing marks after removing the top of ball plug material, which is why it has some polish in it. Therotically it leaves a ball at 500 grit and polished.

quote:

I would think that if a person wanted their ball to be a final 400 or 600 grit and polished, then after sanding to that grit wouldn't a person have to use a straight "grit-less" polish like Black Magic or Storm X-tra Shine or Magic Shine etc.?

If you want the ball to stay at the sanded grit level, yes, Black Magic is the only polish I curreently am aware of that claims to have no abrasives. Even that one allows you to use as much pressure and as much time ot get th elevel of shine you want (up to some level).

quote:

I don't understand that if a person uses a 1000 Grit Polish, then why waste time sanding to a lower grit. Why not sand to 1000 to begin with since the Grit Polish is going to change what the ball was originally sanded to.

If you that's what you want, then do it that way.

Bottom line is that there are many ways to get to the point you want. These polsihes and sandpaper and nylon pads offer tons of possibilities; just use your common sense and your imagination.

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"We get old too fast, and too late, smart."

Brickguy221 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 03, 2004, 10:04:50 AM »

Thanks everyone. All of my questions are now answered although not easily understood. Again, many thanks. No more questions.

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Ex Member of Lane 1 Clique

Edited on 5/3/2004 9:57 AM

Author Topic: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads? (Read 12716 times)

Brickguy221

Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

gbushman

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

charlest

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

Brickguy221

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

charlest

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

Brickguy221

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

charlest

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?

Brickguy221

Re: Sandpaper or Scotchbrite Pads?