Author Topic: surface prep (Read 1631 times)

bullred · « **on:** September 24, 2011, 07:35:35 AM »

Since the ball manufacturers are guilty of the worst "cheating" I have no compunction about posting old methods of cheating. Some of the old "stuff" is better than new.

More length, sand with the initial tracks with 400-600 grit

More, more length, follow up with 600-800 grit

More, more, more length, follow up with polish(no grit)

More, more, more, more length, use 600-800 grit, follow up with 800-1000, then 1200-200 grit with polish.

All with the tracks

More hook:

Sand against the initial track with 400-600 will give earlier hook.

Sand against the later tracks with 400-600 will give later hook if you have smoothed up the early tracks

Later tracks to be adjusted per earlier post for later or early hook.

To all those THS 230+ averages, most of you are throwing through all the measureable parimeters.

A speed of 20+ negates most axis tilts, revs, and rotations. Your accuracy and speed will dominate your scoring.

Impending Doom · « **Reply #1 on:** September 24, 2011, 08:33:58 PM »

Bullred,

I would be remiss to not mention a footnote in your post.

Everyone must remember that most balls nowadays flare a considerable amount, and while sanding with the initial lines will indeed make the ball cleaner through the fronts, as that ball starts to flare, the sanding lines are no longer parallel to the flare. So, sanding with the initial lines will get you clean through the fronts, but really give you an aggressive back end. The amount you get will, of course, depend on how much the ball flares for you. A ball with a diff of .055 will have a considerable amount of flare, while a ball with a diff of .030 will not.

The second tip about sanding against the initial track is the same as well. Ball bites earlier, but as it flares, it will not react as violently as it would sanded the first way. Good way to tame down over under.

My favorite tip, which I have used for over a decade, is to find the bow tie on a ball, and place that pointing straight up in the spinner. For the most amount of traction in oil with a strong move in the back, nothing can beat that sanding method.

*Inventor of the FIBJAM*

The sky is falling

The end is near

The final warning

The sun disappears.

Juggernaut · « **Reply #2 on:** September 24, 2011, 10:29:14 PM »

What I would like to know is:

HOW IS ANY OF THIS "CHEATING"?

Even though I think modern technology is/was the games worst enemy, how is it "cheating" by the manufacturers? Granted, they did take advantage of a system that wasn't prepared to handle the situation, but they DID operate within the given parameters.

I blame the ABC/USBC for allowing it to not only happen, but continue to happen, without taking appropriate actions. It wasn't the manufacturers fault, it was the governing bodies fault.

And, how is it cheating to change the surface on your ball, as long as it isn't during competition? If you want to, you can sand your ball in any manner you wish, and it won't be "cheating", as long as it is before the competition begins, and the sanding is uniform over the entire surface of the ball.

Author Topic: surface prep (Read 1631 times)

bullred

surface prep

Impending Doom

Re: surface prep

Juggernaut

Re: surface prep