Author Topic: surface prep how long does it last? (Read 10151 times)

no300tj · « **on:** December 31, 2010, 09:25:20 PM »

OK, I have a question regarding abralon surfaces. Maybe it's just my imagination, but it seems like when I use abralon for the surface, it doesn't last very long. How long do you guys get the desired ball reaction before you have to redo the surface? 4000 only gives me 10-12 games before the starts getting earlier. Rougher grits get a few more games. It seems to me, in the days of sandpaper, I could get 30-40 or even more before I noticed a change in the length of the ball reaction. What do you think?

Brickguy221 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 01, 2011, 09:20:02 AM »

I don't know the answer to your question of Abralon vs Sandpaper but I would have to guess that the person with high revs will get fewer games off of a surface prep than a person with lower revs does.

"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."

Brick

JustRico · « **Reply #2 on:** January 01, 2011, 09:31:58 AM »

It depends on what you are bowling on. A rougher surface has an intended use in volume which means it will absorb more oil smoothing quicker. A smoother surface will tend to last longer, unless bowling on a bad surface which can burn the surface quicker.

Each situation can tend to be different.

The views and opinions expressed by myself are solely those of mine and NO one else, nor are they affiliated with anyone else.

Nails · « **Reply #3 on:** January 01, 2011, 10:27:52 AM »

JustRico wrote on 1/1/2011 10:31 AM:
It depends on what you are bowling on. A rougher surface has an intended use in volume which means it will absorb more oil smoothing quicker.

Each situation can tend to be different.

The views and opinions expressed by myself are solely those of mine and NO one else, nor are they affiliated with anyone else.

Ric, can you explain that further? Why would a dull ball absorbing more oil "smooth the surface"? I would have assumed that a ball thrown on more oil would see less friction and the surface would hold up longer, no matter the grit.

Telling it like it is.

charlest · « **Reply #4 on:** January 01, 2011, 11:44:19 AM »

" it seems like when I use abralon for the surface, it doesn't last very long. How long do you guys get the desired ball reaction before you have to redo the surface? 4000 only gives me 10-12 games before the starts getting earlier. Rougher grits get a few more games. It seems to me, in the days of sandpaper, I could get 30-40 or even more before I noticed a change in the length of the ball reaction. What do you think?"

10-12 games for a P4000 grit surface sounds about normal/average to me. Remember this is as fine a surface as is put on a ball today. I don't remember ever having such fine a grit as sandpaper. They were much rougher, with typical grits being 600, 800 and 1000 grit US. Heck 1000 grit US (which is approximately P2000 grit Abralon) was considered incredibly fine.

Some of the newer balls need refreshing even sooner, according to some authorities, due to their Ra and Rs roughness levels getting smoothed out very quickly.

See Steve Richter's notes in this thread about the Theory:

http://www.ballreviews.com/bowling/equipment_boards/roto_grip/theory_same_cover_a/2/77/270621/1/forumreplies.aspx

"None are so blind as those who will not see."
BowlingChat.net

jodyk24 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 01, 2011, 12:14:02 PM »

no300tj...

I have not used sandpaper for a long time now, even though I have a spinner I do not refresh the surface that often. If you look at the ball with a magnifing glass you can see the scratches are still there after 10-12 games.If you keep the ball clean with a good cleaner after every set of bowling and use a microfiber towel after every shot during competition I think you will notice the ball will keep the reaction longer. The only coment I will make about sandpaper is this. If you don't mind taking more of the surface off of the ball each time you use it, then use sandpaper, but you will still have to keep the ball clean for best results. 4000 grit Abralon is not much surface to begin with so it will not hold up as long as the other grits. Since you ask, this is what I think.

jodyk24

Edited by jodyk24 on 1/2/2011 at 3:59 PM

Edited by jodyk24 on 1/2/2011 at 4:07 PM

snowspike1 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 01, 2011, 06:23:08 PM »

is anyone else having text chopped off.......need to do a quote to read the 3 - 5 words off screen.

sorry off topic but the problem i seen was in this thread (for me anyway)

vilecanards · « **Reply #7 on:** January 01, 2011, 06:45:56 PM »

I'm also missing the last word or two of each line, but so far this is the only thread I've seen it happening.

Life is not a matter of holding a good hand, but of playing a bad hand well. (R. L. Stevenson)

A nation of sheep will beget a nation of wolves.
~ Edward R. Murrow ~

vilecanards · « **Reply #8 on:** January 01, 2011, 06:48:31 PM »

jodyk24 wrote on 1/1/2011 1:14 PM:no300tj....

I have not used sandpaper for a long time now, even though I have a spinner I do not refresh the surface that often. If you look at the ball with a magnifing glass you can see the scratches are still there after 10-12 games.If you keep the ball clean with a good cleaner after every set of bowling and use a microfiber towel after every shot during competition I think you will notice the ball will keep the reaction longer. The only coment I will make about sandpaper is this. If you don't mind taking more of the surface off of the ball each time you use it, then use sandpaper, but you will still have to keep the ball clean for best results. 4000 grit Abralon is not much surface to begin with so it will not hold up as long as the other grits. Since you ask, this is what I think.

jodyk24

Quoting the above allowed me to read the parts that were chopped off at the end of the lines, but when I re-posted the quote they are still chopped off at the end of the line...

Life is not a matter of holding a good hand, but of playing a bad hand well. (R. L. Stevenson)

A nation of sheep will beget a nation of wolves.
~ Edward R. Murrow ~

Edited by vilecanards on 1/1/2011 at 7:50 PM

jodyk24 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2011, 03:57:17 PM »

They made the Coverstock Preparation with more width than

we really need. I cut back on the width of the words to see how

It works.

You should not have to this, but you can shrink the size of your screen

and this will help you out until they get it fixed. Before you get on

signed on right click your mouse and bring up Display Properties

then go to Settings and change your screen size from 800-600

resolutions to a higher setting, then click on apply to make changes.

I was able to read the posts easier and move around better.

jodyk24

Weaser · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2011, 04:49:56 PM »

There is a scroll bar at the bottom of each post. Move bar to right to access more text.

Gary
Proud Member of the Track Legion
Tag Team Coaching Success Story

jodyk24 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2011, 05:12:01 PM »

When this post started the scroll bar would not go over far enough right and sometimes

now it will not go back to the left. I guess it is just a work in progress at this point.

I did not like the site that well at first but it seems to be coming around. Just takes time.

Jodyk24

Edited by jodyk24 on 1/2/2011 at 6:17 PM

snowspike1 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 15, 2011, 02:36:00 PM »

3 weeks ago i did a surface change in my Virtual Energy (previouse surface i used Ebo FF and the ball never did grab the lanes).

new surface.....400 wetsanded (4 sides), 800 wetsanded (2 sides), 2000 wetsand (4 sides), and the Brunswick Ruff Buff on 2 sides (size of quarter,each)... burned polish in with bare hands on all 6 sides...

Results so far...

Wk1 679

Wk2 708

Wk3 684

question is how lone before touching surface up? Am only using that ball in the one house (41' oil) Now that i found a surface that works with me & lane I want to keep it. Thinking i'll let the normal cleaning i do be good for now and see how it reacts on the 4th wk. maybe then touch with a little of the RB not sure if i really would need to goto the last paper (2000).

onlybowling · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:55:37 AM »

The cover meets the lane - the rubber meets the road - and the rubber wears away. The structure of the cover which includes more than I know -- degrees of harder -vs- softer - the density of the honey comb structure which is the oil soaking ability....The chemistry of plastics have changed the balls....

It seems to me that the major differences between "P" rated sand paper and abralon are - Flexablity and porosity of the backing material - depth of the cut - and the cut pattern. U.S. rated sand paper grits are very different when compared to "P" rated Abralon - this is easily seen as you go into lower grits - The depth of cut is an immeadiately obvious difference.

Polished surface seems to sustain the desired ball reaction a bit longer for me - perhaps the polish cushions and protects the balls' surface. Game 11 reveals a ball surface very different from game 1....

OnlyBowling

MrPerfect · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2011, 11:18:48 AM »

I was always curious how this worked with polished surfaces. I really don't use polish anymore, but what about polish on a freshly surface prepped ball? I know that I always need a few games to dial in a polished bowling ball, but by the time I dial it in it's time to repeat the process.

I'm starting to wonder if it's better to hit my polished equipment with a 4000 pad by hand just to get more time out of my cover between prep times.