Author Topic: Too much skid with polish (Read 8294 times)

drvred · « **on:** December 13, 2009, 02:03:24 AM »

Every time I try to polish a ball I get too much skid with it. I knocked the shne off the other night with a green pad and it worked fine.
How do you polish a ball and not have to do that?

charlest · « **Reply #1 on:** December 13, 2009, 12:03:20 PM »

quote:
Every time I try to polish a ball I get too much skid with it. I knocked the shne off the other night with a green pad and it worked fine.
How do you polish a ball and not have to do that?

Possibilities:
1. Use less polish, use less hand pressure, spin it for a shorter time, or any combination of the 3.

2. As Buggs41 said, instead of using 2000 grit Abralon under the polish, use P1500 grit under the polish.

3. If you use a polish with grit in it, use one without grit. The grit sands it finer, makes the underlying grit level finer (maybe, as an example, it takes the surface to P3000 grit instead of the P2000 grit that you sanded it to.), and then polishes the ball.

4. Use a very fine grit level (a matte finish) instead of a polished finish. A popular alternative is P4000 grit matte (a 4000 grit Abralon pad as the final finish) instead of P1500 or P2000 grit polished. Usually this is done on pearls but can also be done on solids. The resulting surface usually handles the same amount of oil, but will hook slightly earlier, have slightly less overall hook and slightly less backend AND will handle slightly more carrydown or handle it better.

5. Do exactly what you did: shine as per normal and then take a grey nylon pad (green is slightly rougher and removes more at one time), to it by hand, LIGHTLY. The only problem with this is it''s had to repeast consistently.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 12/13/2009 1:04 PM

snowspike1 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2009, 10:01:44 PM »

other than sanding (abralon/scratch pad) what else could be used to remove polish.... asetone is not leagal to use so its out (but from what i remember it cleand real good)

J_w73 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2009, 11:30:48 PM »

try just the abralon pad like suggested without any polish..

go 500 to 1000 to 2000 to 4000.. this will give a good shine and length.. If there is still too much skid , too much angularity, too much backend or inconsistent hook then go

500 to 1000 then to 4000..this should be smoother and a little earlier..

messing around with different finishing process will allow you to see what you can get out of a ball..

I find I get a more consistent reaction without polish.
polish tends to make the ball really speed sensitive and over under..
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

snowspike1 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 20, 2009, 01:01:53 AM »

man did you say a mouthfull... I just had my VE resurfaced and i'm begining to think he took it to 2000 then added the polish cause that ball is crazy straight except in my drier house unless i keep my speed down around 15-16 not my normal 17-19 . My Freeze out hooks it now and that launches off the BP (need to tame it down a bit).

DougS · « **Reply #5 on:** December 25, 2009, 08:07:21 AM »

Remember that the surface of the ball needs to match up to the condition you are bowling on and also how you roll it. Shiny balls are not for everyone and there is no trick to creating a christmas ornament that hooks a ton on the backend. As explained here there are different stages of shiny. Abralon pads can provide shine without polish. The smoother and shinier the ball is the more length you will get.

icewall · « **Reply #6 on:** December 25, 2009, 08:35:13 AM »

quote:
man did you say a mouthfull... I just had my VE resurfaced and i'm begining to think he took it to 2000 then added the polish cause that ball is crazy straight except in my drier house unless i keep my speed down around 15-16 not my normal 17-19 . My Freeze out hooks it now and that launches off the BP (need to tame it down a bit).

not every pro shop does a proper resurface. ive seen that many proshops tend to use a high grit pad right away OR for FAR too long which will smooth out the surface.

what most manufacturers are doing is sanding deep first (usually 500 abralon) then lightly and quickly hitting it with 2000 or 4000. you know you've done this right when the ball looks more like a matte finish. if its shiny then you've smoothed out the surface too much.

still to this day i cant figure out what this proshop near me did to my friends no mercy. they told him "4000 abralon??? no we dont carry anything above 1000." thats a bad sign right there. then they said "well we could take it to 1000 plus polish" so my friend agreed and i swear that ball went DEAD straight! and this was a ball that he couldnt even use at this house. it normally would hook from 25 to 7 and nail the 7 pin, after the resurface it was his spare ball. how they made it go that straight is beyond me!
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tweener
med revs
med speed
low tilt
low average

J_w73 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 25, 2009, 01:09:01 PM »

Might not be just them. My NoMercy Whupn just seemed to die on me recently as well. It was a monster when I first got it and did a few cover adjustments and it still worked great.. just recently did a hotwater bath and cover adjustment and now it doesn't seem to move at all unless I hit a dry wall .. before it seemed to move on anything..
I've tried a variety of cover adjustments and it still just doesn't seem like it used to be. The ball doesn't really have that many games either.
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

DougS · « **Reply #8 on:** December 25, 2009, 02:33:47 PM »

J_w73

If you don't own a CAB block consider investing in this item. Your ball may be slightly out of round as a result of surface adjustments. The CAB blocks works well with abralon or standard sand paper folded into 1/4 sections. Also try and clean your bowling ball to ensure the soap residue has been removed. If you have already thrown the ball a handful of shots however any soap residue should already be worn off. You should be able to restore the backend to your ball.

http://www.bowlersparadise.com/shop/bm/taxi/taxi_contour_abrasion_block.shtml

charlest · « **Reply #9 on:** December 25, 2009, 03:41:36 PM »

quote:
Might not be just them. My NoMercy Whupn just seemed to die on me recently as well. It was a monster when I first got it and did a few cover adjustments and it still worked great.. just recently did a hotwater bath and cover adjustment and now it doesn't seem to move at all unless I hit a dry wall .. before it seemed to move on anything..
I've tried a variety of cover adjustments and it still just doesn't seem like it used to be. The ball doesn't really have that many games either.
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

JW,

Some oil suckers need more than one bath to get all the oil out. Until recently the stronger Ebonite coverstocks have been super oil absorbers. I do not know for sure, but if I were you, I doubt it is the surface adjustment you made after the HW bath. No Mercys are awfully strong balls. I suspect you didn't get half the oil out that it has absorbed.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

J_w73 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 25, 2009, 03:59:49 PM »

quote:
quote:
Might not be just them. My NoMercy Whupn just seemed to die on me recently as well. It was a monster when I first got it and did a few cover adjustments and it still worked great.. just recently did a hotwater bath and cover adjustment and now it doesn't seem to move at all unless I hit a dry wall .. before it seemed to move on anything..
I've tried a variety of cover adjustments and it still just doesn't seem like it used to be. The ball doesn't really have that many games either.
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

Thanks. I'll give it another and see if that helps.

JW,

Some oil suckers need more than one bath to get all the oil out. Until recently the stronger Ebonite coverstocks have been super oil absorbers. I do not know for sure, but if I were you, I doubt it is the surface adjustment you made after the HW bath. No Mercys are awfully strong balls. I suspect you didn't get half the oil out that it has absorbed.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

AngloBowler · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2010, 04:38:59 AM »

I've had some luck in this regard by applying the polish with an abralon pad gives a nice reaction between polish and 4000 grit for when more push through the heads is needed but a shined ball shoots through the breakpoint.
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Reporting from England

ManofSteel316 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 06, 2010, 05:25:50 PM »

Hi there...

From my experience the whole point of polishing a ball is to promote skid or push...
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I can bowl 300.... Down hill with a tail wind

ucumin2 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 07, 2010, 10:43:09 AM »

simple solution change the under lying surface . Most people hit ball with 4000 then polish it cause thats oob surface. The under lying surface plays big role on how ball reacts. Try taking ball down to 2000 then polish it . U should see big diffence . Experiment and u should find surface like when polished

Author Topic: Too much skid with polish (Read 8294 times)

drvred

Too much skid with polish

charlest

Re: Too much skid with polish

snowspike1

Re: Too much skid with polish

J_w73

Re: Too much skid with polish

snowspike1

Re: Too much skid with polish

DougS

Re: Too much skid with polish

icewall

Re: Too much skid with polish

J_w73

Re: Too much skid with polish

DougS

Re: Too much skid with polish

charlest

Re: Too much skid with polish

J_w73

Re: Too much skid with polish

AngloBowler

Re: Too much skid with polish

ManofSteel316

Re: Too much skid with polish

ucumin2

Re: Too much skid with polish