Find a bowling alley with a lane machine.If he hooks that ball to much somethings wrong even with a core.Most plastic for me even a plastic ball needs some surface to get in a little roll on synthetics.And I have a 400+ rev rate.Those most be seriously dry lanes.

I would try a flare reducing hole first, make it as large and deep as the static weights allow.  If that didn't work I'd plug and redrill it, but I'd use a 6" pin to PAP with the cg kicked way negative. 

Another option is to look at the other side of the coin:
 
He now has a spare ball that can double as dry lane ball, maybe reducing the number of balls he needs to carry. He can now also throw that spare ball at spares he might not have been able to in the past, like double wood spares, since he now has some drive at the pin deck. He can now also, potentially, be more aggressive when trying to convert splits because he has a ball he can now get to "turn" at the end of the pattern. All this for just making a small adjustment in how he shoots his 10 pins.
 
I was "lucky", my first plastic ball was the Ebonite Clear Wolf, so it had a real weight block in it. So I learned how to shoot 10 pins that way. I wouldn't trade it for the world...I could never throw a plastic ball with just the pancake weight block. This ball is the best dry lane ball I ever had, and I will shoot 300 with it one day, lol.

The Track Spare+ does not hook. It will merely turn over if given enough dry boards.

It doesn't hook, it just turns over when it encounters dry boards.

If a ball changes direction when it hits dry boards (Friction) and that's not hooking, what do you consider hooking?

get a pancake core .plastic white dot,maxum or and old manhatten rubber