the entire ball must be sanded....or polished for that matter.

You must sand the whole of the ball (4 or 6 sides recommended), but the direction syou sand the ball in the last step make a (small) impact. If you run the final lines in the same direction as your initial track, you can get a little more length and more back end - especially with a stacked layout, since the sanding lines become perpendicular to the movement direction once the ball rotates around its PSA. If you have the sanding lines at 90° to your initial track, the ball reads the early lane parts a little better, an option for added traction in heavy soup.

This works with and without polish, but the effects are IMHO negligible, since the sanding lines wear off easily. Nevertheless, I keep an eye on this setup option when I refresh ball surface, always sanding in line with my initial track during the last 2 sides of the ball. And, after all, it is a totally legal option and pros do this frequently (there is also a book about it, just forgot the title and author)
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
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Edited on 5/4/2007 6:28 AM

Edited on 5/4/2007 8:29 AM

It s fine how youre doing it.

Sanding with the bowties at the top and not having all the lines meeting up so they run perfectly paralell is what most people find. You dont have to make them all follow the same way, you just have to make sure the whole ball is done to roughly the same grit finish.

Dizzy the book youre talking about is probably revolutions 2 by Chip Zeilke.
Top class book with tons of info.
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