Post by: Kid Jete on January 25, 2008, 09:06:26 AM
Post by: mrbowlingnut on January 25, 2008, 05:11:35 PM
Post by: on January 25, 2008, 05:21:46 PM
The above post says it well regarding polishing.
--------------------
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah
Brunswick Amateur Staff
Post by: shelley on January 25, 2008, 05:29:54 PM
SH
Post by: Kid Jete on January 25, 2008, 05:33:51 PM
Post by: charlest on January 25, 2008, 07:02:55 PM
quote:
The final sanding direction, with or against the track, is just another one of those little fine-tuning mechanisms you can use to give or take a little bit of length. Your friend may find that sanding across the track gives better results on the lanes at his house for most of his customers, but it's not better for all conditions and bowlers.
SH
I can understand this for 400, 600, even 800 grit. At 1000 grit, I begin to wonder at its significance. From 1500 grit on up to 5000 grit, I sincerely doubt its relevance at all.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ (http://"http://home.mchsi.com/~s-cross-7-28-71/FAQ.htm")
Post by: LuckyLefty on January 25, 2008, 07:12:07 PM
Accross = earlier and smoother backend
Crosshatch....earlier and a strong backend.
REgards,
Luckylefty
--------------------
Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
Post by: shelley on January 25, 2008, 09:11:00 PM
quote:quote:
The final sanding direction, with or against the track, is just another one of those little fine-tuning mechanisms you can use to give or take a little bit of length.
I can understand this for 400, 600, even 800 grit. At 1000 grit, I begin to wonder at its significance. From 1500 grit on up to 5000 grit, I sincerely doubt its relevance at all.
I'll buy that. Just repeating the conventional wisdom. Gotta remember, too, that these high-grit finishes seem to be pretty new to the bowling world, and most balls before the last few years were no higher than 1500-grit sanded and most polished balls had lower grits under the polish. So who really knows whether that is still true for the new 4000-grit polished finishes we see now.
SH
Post by: Brickguy221 on January 25, 2008, 11:19:16 PM
quote:
Sanding across the track will get the ball to read the lane slightly earlier, whereas going with the track will read the lane slightly later. It just depends on what you're looking for.
quote:
With = later break harder backend
Accross = earlier and smoother backend
Crosshatch....earlier and a strong backend.
notclay and LuckyLefty have it right.
--------------------
Brick
Post by: leftehh- LG on January 25, 2008, 11:28:21 PM
--------------------
Post by: charlest on January 26, 2008, 05:56:21 AM
quote:quote:quote:
The final sanding direction, with or against the track, is just another one of those little fine-tuning mechanisms you can use to give or take a little bit of length.
I can understand this for 400, 600, even 800 grit. At 1000 grit, I begin to wonder at its significance. From 1500 grit on up to 5000 grit, I sincerely doubt its relevance at all.
I'll buy that. Just repeating the conventional wisdom. Gotta remember, too, that these high-grit finishes seem to be pretty new to the bowling world, and most balls before the last few years were no higher than 1500-grit sanded and most polished balls had lower grits under the polish. So who really knows whether that is still true for the new 4000-grit polished finishes we see now.
SH
But with all the variables with the new oil viscosities and the potential irregualrities in oil breakdown, the various finishes play a greater and greater role in ball adjustments.
As to whether it's still true or not, depends on the DEGREE to which it was ever true. The difference can be seen with 400 and 600 grit, but with the finer ones, it is less and less visible to the bowler's eye. Hell's bells, 99+% of people can't even tell when they come with in 3 boards left or right of their target, and you're telling me they ARE seeing the difference in sanding in their ball reaction. Nah!
I know it's not true for 2000 & 4000 grit for me and the balls I have changed with these grits. and I can see the diiference in ball reaction between 2000, 3000 and 4000 grit sandings, most of the time; it depends on the ball and the oil pattern.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ (http://"http://home.mchsi.com/~s-cross-7-28-71/FAQ.htm")
Post by: dizzyfugu on January 28, 2008, 02:54:04 AM
), I make sure that the last sanding directions go with the inital track and the first 2 sanding turns are at 90° to them, e. g. following the VAL.The same procedure goes for polish or compounds, always 4 sides, evenly distributed, and the final turn following the initial track.
--------------------
DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section (http://"http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=74110&ForumID=16&CategoryID=5")
Xmas special: a handy Java online score calculator (http://"http://public.csusm.edu/veres/bowlingScore.html")
Post by: Brickguy221 on January 28, 2008, 10:16:14 AM
quote:
The same procedure goes for polish or compounds, always 4 sides, evenly distributed, and the final turn following the initial track.
Unless the polish has grit in it, I don't find it nessary to do 4 sides when polishing.
--------------------
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick
Post by: dizzyfugu on January 28, 2008, 10:19:56 AM
--------------------
DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section (http://"http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=74110&ForumID=16&CategoryID=5")
Xmas special: a handy Java online score calculator (http://"http://public.csusm.edu/veres/bowlingScore.html")
Post by: mrbowlingnut on January 28, 2008, 10:23:20 AM
quote:
Uh, I found that only 2 sides of polish (or one complete surface treatment) is not enough to get an even and really shiny finish - but maybe I use the stuff sparsely. So I like to trun the ball 90° and just hit it again from 2 sides. Much better results for me.
--------------------
DizzyFugu (http://"http://www.putfile.com/dizzyfugu/") - Reporting from Germany
Confused by bowling?
Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section (http://"http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=74110&ForumID=16&CategoryID=5")
Xmas special: a handy Java online score calculator (http://"http://public.csusm.edu/veres/bowlingScore.html")
Post by: Brickguy221 on January 28, 2008, 10:29:31 AM
quote:
Uh, I found that only 2 sides of polish (or one complete surface treatment) is not enough to get an even and really shiny finish - but maybe I use the stuff sparsely. So I like to trun the ball 90° and just hit it again from 2 sides. Much better results for me.
quote:
bingo you will have an uneven strip in the grip area that is less polished at least on my psinner that is the case. If i am lazy 2 sides and then the grip area last work ok.
I haven't had these problems on my spinner. We all do what works best for each of us, so I guess it is .... "to each, his own".
--------------------
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."
Brick