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Author Topic: sanding  (Read 3934 times)

skevr

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sanding
« on: December 04, 2005, 02:05:29 PM »
i was wondering if i sand my ball to a 220 grit should i leave it dull or
should i polish it up? It's a ebonite big time. what are the advantages vs
the disadvantages of polishing @ 220 as opposed to keep it dull.

 

Strider

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Re: sanding
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2005, 08:56:06 PM »
220 is super dull and will roll out unless you have hyper speed and low revs.  It's probably not good for the lane beds either.  If you need to sand to 220 for a resurface, or because that's what the manufacturer recommends, add some polish or compound to bring it up to 600 grit or so.
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taige690

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Re: sanding
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2005, 09:05:25 PM »
grabs earlry, and has no finish on the back end. depends on the lane conditions.

thfonz98

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Re: sanding
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2005, 09:06:34 PM »
gets oil soaked quickly also

and gets teammates mad for burning up the lane.
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Edited on 12/5/2005 9:57 PM

charlest

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Re: sanding
« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2005, 05:04:12 AM »
The BigTime is a particle ball. I can't imagine the damage it might do to the lanes if you did sand it to 220 grit and used it. For 99.999% of the bowlers on any condition, 600 grit is as low as you wnat or should need to go, onany ball. If you need more, you're either not using the right ball or playing the lanes the right way.

This is not intended to be nasty, so don't take it that way. If you need that much surface, you either need another ball or some lessons on different releases or where to play the lane for a better ball reaction.
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azguy

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Re: sanding
« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2005, 06:00:50 AM »
I agree with charlest on this one. The only reason I ever take a ball to 220 is to get good sized cuts out of it, but never leave it that grit. IMO, it would be almost like throwing a ball with sandpaper on it, so much damage to the lanes.

If you have scratches nicks etc in it that you'd need 220, then fine, but i'd never say leave it there. No ball, to my knowledge, has that grit finish. There may be one, but I don't know of it.
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Laybzz74

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Re: sanding
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2005, 06:08:04 AM »
If it's particle, which it is ... have it resurfaced with the roughest scotchbrite (burgundy, I believe) don't wet sand it as it will take the points off of the particles. Polish and or compound finishes after that will depend upon what you want the ball to doing ... for that, I would work with your pro shop and speak extensively about it.
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KDawg77

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Re: sanding
« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2005, 06:20:02 AM »
On top of everything said, which is all correct, the only ball you would want to sand anywhere near 220 is urethane and 320 grit is the lowest I would recommend.
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Laybzz74

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Re: sanding
« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2005, 06:35:53 AM »
The Visionary Midnight Scorcher is 320 grit OOB ... the only ball that I know of that has a coverstock that rough OOB.
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Robb in O'Fallon, IL (near Scott AFB)
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**** Official "L/LM" ball "junkie" ****

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charlest

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Re: sanding
« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2005, 08:08:35 AM »
quote:
The Visionary Midnight Scorcher is 320 grit OOB ... the only ball that I know of that has a coverstock that rough OOB.
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And it is urethane with particles. When sanding, it's usually not the particles that you're sanding but the base in which they are set.

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Edited on 12/7/2005 8:58 AM
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thfonz98

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Re: sanding
« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2005, 06:25:58 PM »
The super carbide bomb is 35 micron(as were other trizact needing brunswick particle balls) which is ~330

http://www.reade.com/Sieve/grit_conversion.html
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Edited on 12/7/2005 7:15 PM

skevr

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Re: sanding
« Reply #11 on: December 17, 2005, 09:49:18 PM »
Thanks to for all the advice!!! We ended up sanding @ 220 with a heavy polish....Now the Big Time hooks with very good result!!