It's hard to believe the driller doesn't use a bowler's PAP when laying out a ball. Not to put you down or anything, but if you don't know how to lay out a ball yourself, can you be sure he's simply not telling you everything that goes into how he lays out a ball. Experts do a lot of in-head processing, they may not make you privilege to every bit of knowledge they bring to bear on your equipment and layouts.
Even if he just goes by the drill sheets (which are pretty standard for symmetric stuff; he may simply be less than creative with his layouts), he still may take the PAP into account.
Nevertheless, suppose that he's really not doing anything with the PAP. Laying out the ball is not terrifically hard. Take a symmetric ball, for example. You can lay it out with a degree-based system or by specifying the distance for both the pin and CG from PAP. Let's use the latter:
Choose your layout, say, 4x3. The pin is 4" from PAP, so draw a circle around the pin that's 4" in radius. Now draw a circle 3" in radius around the CG. Those circles will intersect in two places, there are two points on the ball that are both 4" from the pin and 3" from the CG. One will be your PAP, the other will not (picture what a 4x3 layout looks like in relation to your finger holes and you'll be able to figure out which intersection point is right).
Now you say your PAP is 6" from grip center with no up/down measurement. Take a flexible ruler and measure 6" from the spot you've called your PAP. This will be the grip center and the midline will be right at the ruler's edge. You can adjust the height of the pin above the midline to tweak the length. Once you have the grip center, your driller should be able to figure out where the holes go.
Or say you want to use the degree system. Draw a reference line from the pin through the CG. Again, choose your layout, say, 60*. Draw a line 60* from the reference line (to the right of the reference line if you're a righty, to the left for lefties). If you want a 4" pin-to-PAP distance, measure 4" along this line and mark that as your PAP. Measure back from there 6" to find grip center as above. Since there's no up/down measurement, that line is also your midline and you can adjust the height of the pin to tweak the length of the reaction.
How draw the 4" or 3" circles? A flexible ruler would work, like the measuring tapes that tailors and seamstresses use. If you don't have a quarter scale, that's a poor-man's way to do it. Or cut pieces of string the right length, hold one end at the pin and put your grease pencil at the other end. For measuring angles, you really need a quarter scale, since a normal protractor isn't curved to lay on the surface of a ball.
What if your PAP is, as hhsbowler says, 5" over and 1" up? You could cut a piece of paper 5" x 1", one corner goes on your PAP and the opposite corner is the grip center. If it's an "up" measurement (and you're a righty), the upper right corner is the PAP, the lower left is the grip center and the lower edge is the midline. It's important to realize that the midline is the edge, otherwise your grip will be crooked in relation to your PAP (i.e., the spot you think is your PAP isn't really).
There are other layout systems. If the ball has a marked MB, you can lay it out the same way as you would a ball with a 6 3/4" pin, though choosing the layout must be done carefully and with plenty of advice from knowledgeable drillers. You might also choose to lay it out by specifying the pin's distance from the VAL (perpendicular to the midline through the PAP). You'll adjust the location of the midline (and hence VAL, which you may have to draw, too) to get the pin-VAL distance that you want. I don't know much about using the VAL to achieve specific reactions, you'd have to check the drill sheets for companies that use it. There's also a pin-to-VAL/MB-to-VAL system that someone said Ebonite uses in their videos but I don't how to use it to get a specific reaction. Laying the ball out is not that hard, but choosing the layout is more complicated than just pin-to-PAP, CG/MB-to-PAP or PAP-pin-CG/MB angle.
This video will probably go a long way to understanding how to draw the lines and where to draw them. Keep in mind, though, that the layout process I've described stops once you've found grip center (probably you should mark the grip centerline that connects the bridge and thumb just to nail down the orientation of the grip). How far above and below the grip center to draw the finger holes or thumb hole is up to your driller. You might think "split the measurements in half and go up/down that half distance" but it's not quite right. Someone else will have to explain how to get the actual location of the holes from the grip center.
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