BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: LuckyLefty on April 20, 2013, 07:40:42 AM
-
I am bowling on severe wet dry. They have their stripper working right again and for 3 to 5 games as a bowl alone lefty a pearl is unusable. No matter how weak a cover or pearl.
My solution this year when they had the shot the way they want has been a weak cored solid the Sonic X SOLID.
I have come close with a pin on PAP Hot Rod Hybrid(thinking of going to 1.5 pin to PAP as needs just a touch more backend.).
Anyone ever try an Axis leverage on a shot like this where the backend is so explosive. ie my Sonic X pearl is WAY too much early in the set. Or maybe a farther pin with the 0 degree drill angle.
How about a 15 or 20 degree drill angle to add a little backend?
REgards,
Luckylefty
-
I would think you should look toward cover vs. drill pattern. You are on the right track using a solid. Depending on the length of the oil pattern, I would try an IQ Tour (solid) with some surface or for shorter patterns a Shout, again with surface. Have you tried urethane? Perhaps the new Supernatural if you still need a little backend.
-
I have a Natural solid, for this 35 foot shot is usually not enough for ME and is drilled strong.
Should have tried the Natural yesterday when the shot was super sparky!
Note we do have head oil at least in the center. My girlfriend was amazed to see pearls for the first 4 balls or so sweep from the 4 pin to hitting the 6 almost flush the first 5 or so soft warm up shots. Once the switch to solids was made things got easier to control. NEVER could really use a pearl except my Avalanche pearl a bit after 4 games.
Also as to my idea, I saw this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4WB05Djx1Q Note the first 25 seconds for layout.
REgards,
Luckylefty
PS a friend of mine on the right likes this....first bowler Curly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGh7nRW73NI Their shot seems much less "Sparky"
-
If the Natural is not quite enough, perhaps the AMF Hype Urethane or U2 classic might work for you, both are significantly stronger. As to resin, I would consider the Shout, or one of the old Planet series Roto balls.
-
This won't be the most popular response, but you will get way more out of manipulating your release to blend out the wet/dry than you will out of drilling a ball weak enough to use. Once you get a ball that is weak enough to actually use chances are that you can't strike enough to keep pace.
-
Uggh, I must report proudly that I have made significant changes via finger dancing and initial position that have assisted my game this year.
For example using my original release and starting position I was standing 28 to 30 yesterday and pearls were unusable for 4 games. New more behind position index finger tucked tight to rest of hand and baby finger out I was able to move to 26 27 and strike up a storm. Still no pearls usable after 4 games. This is a truly sparky shot.
Now back to my original question please. Thank you.
Regards,
Luckylefty
PS with my Sonic X solid I have had a serviceable year this year once I found it.
-
You're looking for the magic ball when the ball isn't the answer. But that isn't what you want to hear, so I'll go away.
Your best bet as far as ball goes it to find an older, low diff, particle ball.
-
How about a higher differential symmetrical drilled strong and some surface on the ball? Burn off some energy before getting to the dry?
-
It's all about me....
Tell me about my release...
Interesting.
Regards,
Luckylefty
PS Strapper thank you.
-
Too much side rotation. The name of the game these days is controlling the breakpoint so you can play the proper zone on the lane. Standing 30 and throwing it to the dry has it's place, but if you're getting the over under/you say you're getting you need to cut down rotation and rev rate to blend it out. Once you get close then fine tune it.
Say you own a Corvette. There is a corner on your street that you can't make if you have your foot to the floor. Do you get a slower car that you can make the corner with it floored or do you lift off the pedal of your Corvette?
-
Great description, and fine analogies, but how do you know....too much side rotation?
There is a lot of lefty struggling and inconsistency in this particular center.
REgards,
Luckylefty
-
Been there. The little gremlin used to kick my ball sideways like nobody's business.
-
If you have adequate volume in the heads and midlane, enough to keep a stronger cover from hooking too esrly, then I agree with Lucky. Use the cover and a more up the back release to control the wet dry. Step up a medium solid cover from 500 to 2000 no polish and then adjust it up or down depending on what you see.
Ease off with (softer) your fingers at the bottom and come more up the back of the ball. (think thumb closer to 2 than to 12.
I absolutely love the Pink panther on this type of shot. IQ Tour works as well.
-
On shorter patterns, especially sport patterns, I like using stronger equipment with a very short pin to pap. I have three like this that I can't get to break loose if I tried. DA terms, one is 60* 2" 40*, one is 70* 2" 30 and the other is 80* 2* 20*.
-
Xcessive,
I have a solid which is 1 3/4 pin to pap(cg back towards palm) and it works in the first game, then hits flat in game two and 3.
I also have a pin on pap pearl(cg back towards grip center). that is just not quite enough. Thought of moving that to 1.5 inch.
Surprisingly a 2 inch pin to pap pearl(stacked), an absolute Dud.
Regards,
Luckylefty
-
What about a strong(ish) Solid with low diff and a 2000 or 4000 surface?
Balls that come to mind:
IQ Tour Solid
Ogre Solid (maybe the pearl with the shine knocked off?)
Seismic Blackout
RG Shout
Cobra SE
or if one of those doesn't work Maybe give Storm's supernatural a shot when it comes out. Supposed to be a bit stronger then the previous ones.
If your still having problems with over-raction at that point you probably need to learn to move right and bounce it off of the friction.
-
I tried one about 6-7 years ago and loved how smooth this drilling rolled. The only issue I had was trying to move in and swing the ball with this drilling. You would leave a lot of corner pins.
I also believe on FB that Ryan Ciminelli drilled a bunch of stuff this way and was able to stay in the dry longer without moving way left.
-
Guys thanks for your comments.
I also was fortunate enough to go watch the tournament at the Villages and watch Johhnie P tear it up with his DV8.
Discussed drillings with his ball rep and he mentioned that the 2 inch pin to pap was often a winner on a short shot like at that tourney and that as the shot progressed they would move off this when carry died.
Informative there and here! Thank you...
REgards,
Luckylefty
-
Lucky,
What ball is this layout on? I had that problem a tropical heat on carrydown and had to wait until that broke down. However, having that layout on a sync I've had no issues. Furthermore, going to 1.5" instead of 1.75" will just make it flare even less.
-
Was it a DV8 Marauder solid? Very smooth. But when I saw him he was off that drilling to more of a standard pin under ring.
Looking very good.
REgards,
Luckylefty
-
Hey, that shot on this week from Milwaukee the 32 foot shot! I play the lane almost exactly the same except slightly wider being lefty!
That is almost my league shot! Except I have more out of bounds at 35 feet!
Driving ball to the gutter and having to catch and rev it is how I have had my highest games on this shot! Sometimes you don't catch it enough! Gutter!
Regards,
Luckylefty
-
I have drilled a number of balls with the pin 1 inch from the PAP and the CG at 135 degrees (PIN/PAP line to PIN/CG line). CG results in side and finger weight for me. I find that the reaction varies a lot base on the ball. Some ball are dead when they hit the pocket and some are monsters. Available balls that I have success with are the Brunswick Karmas. The urethane rolls evenly with a little finish at the end. The green pearl makes a strong move off the end of the pattern, almost flip. The urethane and pearl hits well for me. The solid gives a roll/set reaction and poor carry. (Maybe because I don't put speed and revs on the ball.) Someone else with more speed and revs tried the ball and he liked it because it set up and carried for him. My recommendation for you is to try it on a urethane or solid Karma. I usually use balls with 2.5-3 pin and 2-3 top.
-
A second house I have now started bowling in has a classic wet/dry over under.
Lots of friction outside 10....All the way down the lane. The classic wet dry expectation. The wider one projects the more the ball comes back. So balls that hit the 3 board at the break point crossover, balls that hit 9 flush.
There I can use classic pin ups(not much volume) I have found the solution there is parallel moves instead of 2 and 1s and the like. It is also here that my 2 inch pin to pap 135 degree angle Hammer Onyx Vibe is not bad, until it loses hit late in game 2.
The interesting place is still the first house which bowls like a bigger hang spot version of the 32 foot shot I just saw on TV this weekend.
REgards,
Luckylefty
PS a side note I have been practicing some days for free speed and it seems to be taking out the wet dry on some of the conditions I am seeing.
Also it is seeming that with this my axis rotation might be getting closer to 45 degrees at times. Both are positives.
-
Went 20 x 1 x 20 on a Seismic Aftermath for the Senior Australian Open on WTBA Los Angeles - 36. I found I had more control of the break point than anyone else in the tournament. The carry was slightly compromised on some occasions, but the 213 average was enough to win.
I chose that layout because I wanted the ball to burn up a bit on the high friction surface (HPL) to control the back end reaction and give me some forgiveness in the length of the breakpoint. As the scoring pace was a bit of a grind, this strategy worked out perfectly against a lot of guys with more aggressive layouts who had higher strike percentages than me, but were also leaving a lot more ugly spares and splits due to chronic over/under.